Well, it's a FAIL. I busted enough parts messing with the thing that I just decided to destroy it and move on. It's resting quietly in the dumpster right now.
Thanks for watching this thread, but you know, they cannot all be winners and here lately, I just don't seem to have the patience or desire to keep "rigging" s**t like I used to. Doing this attempt reminded me of two things. How much I really like the size of the XL-50 and how much I really hate the construction of the XL-50, with it's cheap plastic lens and reflector.
A little music first, to set the mood.
I decided to try another XL-50. This time I am sure I have a real Nichia led to put in it.
This XL-50 is different than the one I did before. It's been updated. The pill unscrews out of the body now and the switch looks different than the old style. I'm not very good with electronics, so I have photos of components. I would guess that the little board attached to the led is still the regulator for amperage and that the board in the switch is for the modes, but I probably am full of you know what.
The led board was potted and very hard to get apart, but you can see the chips on the board.
The board inside the switch housing.
Here's a closeup of it.
I think I will just say screw it and use a judco. Something I can almost unnerstand.
I'm also thinking of replacing the series battery holder with another simpler holder that will take three 10440 batteries in parallel.
Of course there's going to be copper involved in the pill.
The driver will be one of the 1540mA drivers from KD and the led will be a Nichia 219 from IS.
Correct, driver is in the pill, mode circuitry is in the tail. But, how the #^&@ do you get the tailcap apart? I have had one for a while, the pill replaced with a direct drive XML and using Energizer NiMH AAAs, every few weeks it starts bugging me and I pry on the tailcap for a while and then give up until it starts bugging me again.
From experiments mixing & matching p60 reflectors, with XML & XPG-specific reflectors, and domed & de-domed XPG2s and domed & de-domed XML2s, the XL50 reflector should be pretty kick-ass with a de-domed XPG2.
I screwed the tail cap on the light, put the light in a vise, took a socket (just a tiny bit smaller than the pushbutton hole) and I rapped on the socket with a hammer. It popped right out and everything fell into the light, so I didn’t loose any parts.
Well, flashlight issues. What to do? If I use original switch board and leave it as a blank contact plate with switch, it will be momentary. The stock switch is momentary and the board it's attached to must have a latch somewhere, like the DrJones drivers. I stripped the board clean and now I can use it as a contact plate, but it's a momentary only switch now. Is that called "tactical"? Anyhow, it's either that or use the Judco as a regular switch. What do you think?
Second problem. Should I use Eneloop AA NiMHs or Efest IMR 10440 batteries.
If I do 3xAAA Eneloops in series, I know I can squeeze 1.5 amps from them, but not for very long (rated 800mA, but they will do considerably more).
If I do 3x10440 IMRs in parallel, I can get 1.5 amps out of them, but probably not as long as the Eneloops would run, since they are only 350mA batteries and 3 of them is still only 1050mA.
Well, I never thought the day would come when OL would even consider using lithium cells…you da nimh man!
Another option for your cell conundrum might be a single 18500 ? Might not give you much more runtime than 3x 10440, but it would be a more simple build.
Oh, wait, you dont do simple……
3x of those eneloops have (800mAh*3=) 2400mA@1,2V when wired in parallel. Or 800mA@ 3,6V when wired in series. 3x 10440 IMRs have 1050mA @ 3,6V when wired in parallel
If you are worried about safety, like you are, I would stick to the typical NiMh route. But the Li-ion wound give you more juice and longer runtime like li-ion does best. I hope my example showed that.
I would consider one protected 18650 battery to be way much safer than 3 of those unprotected 10440 in parallel (just a random example).
For a single Nichia build, I would stick to safe and easily available AAA batteries. So much more flexible, and run time wont be that much less. Nichias are happy even if then dont get 1,5A all the time…
I just think about the fact that many more people like Li-ion than they do NiMHs. I figured the Efest aren't protected, but the driver has a low voltage warning and drop off to 35%, so with the batteries in parallel, they should be safe, but I do prefer NiMHs. I just don't prefer AA NiMHs. There's not enough room for an 18650. 50mm max room for height. It will probably end up NiMHs, since I don't really want to go buy Li-ions.
If you're building a new pill anyway, and also replacing the tailcap innards, 18650 would be easy-peasy. This is with the stock height pill holder thing, make that shorter and you get even more room.
My two bobs worth. I have one off these but unable to test it. There will never be a better opportunity to try this driver than now in this light. if you ordered it now it will be on the doorstep tomorrow morning with Fasttechs super fast delivery. It may be the Holy Grail off drivers for Nichias running any voltage battery. Thanks for doing this OL.
Edit. I just realised the link wasn’t working. All fixed now.
HAHAHAHAHA it fits. Thread pitch is very slightly different, but it screws in smooth and tightens just fine. Does need a spacer to bring the LED up to meet the stock reflector, or the head could be shortened to screw down farther.
Yep, I tried that myself, but decided not to bother since I wasn’t going to use an 18650. Might be a great modding light for anyone wanting to use an 18650 in it.
Thread is done. I am finished with the attempt. The light is resting in flashlight hell, in the dumpster. I busted up too much stuff trying to screw with it. Not every mod can be a winner.
If you want a safe nanjg105C driver for li-ion. Check out the Qlite.
It will actually turn off before its empties the battery “110%”, so if you are using a batteries without protection you have a proper safety. The warning in a regular nanjg105c is totally useless if the light should accidentally be turned on… (say in a backpack or something. That has happened to me btw).
On top of the added safety in a Qlite, you get much nicer mode spacing, no whine, and 3A output.
I use li-ion all the time. But I do it as safe as possible.
I think the safety of parallel wired batteries are overrated. The moment you put three (li-ion) batteries in a parallel setup they get contact immediately. If one battery is 4,1V and the two others are 4,2V, then they will try to even each other out. Basically, the two batteries will give as much juice to the 4,1V battery as they possibly can. Which can be a lot! And not healthy! There should be zero difference between the batteries, the larger, the more dangerous.
Example with 18650 batteries. Absolute max charge current is often around 2C, while recommended charge us usually no more than 1C.
Max official output can sometimes be around 7A for unprotected batteries (rough number). Two batteries could then theoretically try to “charge” the battery with lower voltage with up towards 14C.
Thats not healthy!
I would much rather have two protected 18650s in series than 3 unprotected batteries in parallel.
Im sure someone more knowledgeable than me will correct me if I am wrong.
When it comes to multi-battery li-ion lights a DMM is a must anyway if you are concerned about safety. Parallel or series…
Ouch. Sorry to hear about the botched build, O-L. I have an OG XL50 from 2010 with the Rebel LED. I love the form factor, switch, and the deep reflector. Wish it was easy to mod, though. I’d love to have an XL-50 modded with DrJones driver using the stock electronic switch (like the SRK’s). A 2x or 3xAMC driver would suffice for a Nichia in this light, IMO. 2xAMC would give about an hour’s worth of runtime even on High with Eneloops/Tenergys. They don’t seem to get much brighter between 1 amp and 1.5 amps. Only 70 more lumens for 57% more power.
Now, that is an interesting development.
I second the use of copper discs to raise the emitter into focus. I have a feeling the deep XL50 reflector would be awesome with the XM-L. I know the deep reflector from the 2AA Mini MagLED reflector works great with XM-L: a big, fat hotspot with bright spill.
