Any difference between XinTD C8 and generic eBay C8 if both are XM-L??

I’m trying to learn a little bit…and not make a bad purchasing decision….I like what I have read about the XinTD C8, but saw others recommending simply getting a cheap C8 off eBay. If both use an XM-L emitter then is there any difference? H)

I was researching the same topic only a few days ago myself. From what I understand, the reflector shape of the XinTD is different in comparison to a typical C8, and the PWM frequency is generally better. I’m still having a hard time bringing myself to purchasing one at the moment purely because I’ve already got a couple of decent throwers; if it weren’t for them I’d pick up an XinTD C8 in a heartbeat.

With the XIN, you can pick the tint you want (for those of us who hate bluish-white) and more importantly, you can pick the modes you want. What that primarily means is that you can buy an XIn TD C8 with NO FREAKIN BLINKY MODES.

I pretty much stopped using every light in my collection that makes you go past a blinky mode to change regular modes. It is way too annoying, and I have no reason at all for a light that has seizure mode on it.

The other reason that the XIN is more expensive is that it is consistently better than your average Chinese light in fit and finish. No dirt in the threads, better quality "O" rings, and just a nicer overall light. And of course, the beam itself is fantastic. After the HD2010, the XIN is my favorite 18650 light.

Also as further notes from trooplewis, quality parts in the XinTD - superior driver (true regulation, high performance PWM in low and med, etc.), brass pill for better heat management.

Only thing I would like to see is a SS head/bezel (and tail) but that could add 5-15 bucks on the price.

What others said: built quality, fit and finish, regulation, no blinkies.

Plus maximun brightness, you can’t be certain what the drive on high will be on a random C8.

I recently received a C8 from ebay for 10.61 usd. here

The flashlight came in great condition, no marks or dings, aluminum reflector, nice beam profile.

Only issue the high is ONLY 1.3 Amp.(also 2 too many blinky modes and low PWM)

I have already ordered 20mm nanjg drivers to beef-up and make a swap. here

I really like this light.

do you plan on adding 7135 chips on that 20mm driver or keeping it stock at 1.05A?

Yes, i plan on adding 3 or 4 7135’s

Curious as to why you didn’t go with the standard nanjg 105C driver.

http://www.intl-outdoor.com/amc71358-5mode-circuit-board-nanjg-105c-p-216.html

I can’t cite specifics, but common sense would says that the cheaper you buy the lower the quality it’ll be, such as:

-Machining, anodising and fit and finish. This affects appearance, use and durability.

-Driver. Most cheap flashlights have a very cheap driver, some expensive ones do too, but you are unlikely to find a really good driver in a really cheap light

-LED bin and tint. Cheaper lights are more likely to have poor tint and CRI and often make less lumens even if driven at the same current

-Switch. Cheap switches can fail and reduce performance

-Thermal path and management. Really cheap lights are often badly heatsinked, so won’t handle the heat very well. This can reduce or restrict performance and cause longer term damage after prolonged use

This driver is 17mm, my C8 uses a 20mm one.

Although i could sandwich a 17mm driver in the pill, I decided to wait for a 20mm, seems neater.

Ahh, I see. I incorrectly assumed that all c8s light used a ~17mm driver. I guess I should know better with all these clone lights and inconsistencies/incompatibilities in dimensions.