I wish to replace the entire switch assembly of my XinTD C8 V4 with this Solarforce Forward Clicky Switch . Does anyone know if its quality is good, and most importantly does it able to fit my XinTD C8 V4 directly, plug-n-play?
Just in case anyone wonders, the reason I consider about it is because of its protruded switch button design, which is much easier to operate. I don’t need to have something that can tailstand because almost 80% of my flashlights are tailstand-able so now I just want something which is easy to press on.
Other than this Solarforce switch, do you guys have any other suggestions? Preferably those with protruded switch button as well as forward-clicky.
That tailcap you linked does not fit the L4 - I just tried it for you now.
It wouldn't fit my Ultrafire C8 either.
What I do know about the switch inside of it, is that over time the solder joint will break where it joins to the PCB, as there usually is a small amount of movement if the switch is not snug against the PCB. Using a little epoxy/superglue will help eliminate the movement.
We all use SF/clones for inspection lights at work, & they get a real hammering. I might operate the switch on my light a hundred times a day.... worst case scenario. I guess I'd have the same issue with any switch that might have movement at the solder joints. Bend something enough, & it's going to break eventually.
The solar Force internals are a perfect fit in the XinTD C8 housing —-I have been using the SF switches in them —mostly to get a reverse clicky set up—but they both work fine up to 6amps for me
FmC, ok that make sense, and it is always nice to use these flashlights as tools!
Chops728, you mean internal parts like only the switch itself can fit perfectly in the XinTD C8 tailcap? That is good to know and we would have more options, but I would also prefer the tailcap to have completely protruded switch button.
Some of the rubber boots have more offset and a longer center piece—therefore they protrude out a bit—you can also put something in the boot to make the center poke out a bit—another option is to grind out some finger grooves like lots of lights already have