I have seen tons of mods done to C8's none of which I have mastered yer let alone done other than solder copper braid to springs i ask because after 2/12 weeks i finally got my Lightmalls C12-XML2-U2 , but has anyone done any mods to the C12 ? Are they identical to comparable C8s as far as interals and just having more heat sinking? and of course my first thought is how to make it brigher so iam just wondering if anyone has done any mods that yielded any good results thanks in advance.

I’ll be watching this since I just got my Aliexpress C12 XM-L2 U3 a few days ago. :nerd_face:

Be a good host due to the extra heatsinking to help wick away heat quickly.

the first thing to do is establish what you have got.

charge up a cell, drop it in and take some tailcap readings, the strip the whole light to component form, you want to know if the switch is well mounted for a start, on my c8 it is one of those stupid spring in the base of the switch, ears trapped in the threads arrangements, its hopeless at 3a.

next, measure the driver and star to establish what sizes you would need for replacements, also use scaru’s guide to establish which emitter you have.

Once you’ve done all this, you have a data sheet for your light, then you can look at what you wish to improve/alter and that will start to dictate your shopping list.

The c12 is supposed to accept c8 reflectors I think, but its no biggie if your reflector dimensions are different, just use what you have.

Intloutdoor is a good place to go shopping, I would go with a qlite driver, Noctigon mounted xm-l2 or xp-g2 depending on if flood or throw is your aim, if the switch is already mounted on a contact board, it should be ok, if not have a look at their c8 switches, they are forward clickies though.

The intloutdoor ar lenses are supposed to be good, I’ve not tried them yet but I intend to.

If you want it to look a bit different, track down the orange dry thread for some ideas REMOVE ALL THE ORINGS FIRST THOUGH. Above all, have fun with it, otherwise, whats the point.

Thanks I appreciate the wisdom

EDIT:I have some 26.5 mm a/r

. Lenses from fasttech I put o. All new torches my question howmuch does it make a ddifference? I understand it keeps light from re-entering the reflector and wasting energy but so they make a measurable difference?

I think that the lens diameter for a C8 is ~42mm, and I’m guessing that the C12 lens diameter would be about the same?

Your right the lenses are 42 mm but is there any measurable difference b between a/r and standard lenses ?

I have seen 8% mentioned quite a bit. The following link has this phrase:

“Uncoated front glass windows reflect about 8% of the light instead of transmitting it; anti-reflex (AR) coated glasses thus can increase the spot intensity by about that value.”

Pretty much any mod for a C8 will also work for the C12. There are many different versions of C8’s out there. The mods you choose depend on what you are trying to accomplish (e.g. more throw, longer run times, etc).

The 7-8% improvement with AR lens is reasonable based on my tests.
I have held out on ordering one of these so far. based on what people report for modding capability, I may have to spring for one.

Because better heat sinking it would manage heat better than standard C8 and I would really like to make a thrower I have quite a few flooders

For throw I would:

  • Dedome (the gasoline method works great on xml’s) and reflow the emitter onto a copper base.
  • Make sure the emitter and pill have a full contact. Lap if necessary
  • Use the $3 Nanjg 105C driver from Fasttech. Learn how to program it to get your own modes if you want different modes.

  • Add about 7 more amc7135 chips (also from FT). That will get you to about 5amps, but your batteries will probably not deliver that much current.

  • Use this reflector insulator to better center the emitter and get the right reflector height:

  • Copper braid the spring in the tail cap

Reassemble, turn on, and enjoy. Or maybe go back and figure out what you did wrong, fix it, and then turn on.

EDIT: The pill is fairly deep. If you want to improve the heat sinking you could fill the pill with something. I like to press in 3/4” aluminum bar stock (not sure what diameter you need). Then drill that and press in a 3/8” copper bar stock. Then lap top of pill to make true flat.

I've done the spring solder trick, what the difference between the nanjg and qlite drivers

The QLite drivers do not produce audible noise in Med and Low. Also they have a 4-mode group that includes moonlight (about 1 lumen). I have switched to QLite as my default 1x18650 driver, mostly because of the moonlight option.

Yeah, the QLites are supposed to be nicer. I don’t buy them because they are more expensive with no added benefit to me. I program my own modes and I’ve never heard the wine thing. Well, once, but it was because the driver was not well seated.

I think the QLites have 380mA 7135’s. The Nanjg’s have 350mA 7135’s.

I need to get set up with programming ability. I have quite a few drivers that could use new mode updates.

A 3.5 grams of artic silver thermal compound, an. 8 chppied 7135 @ 380 mah so I won't haveto mess with trying to solder and stack chps on a 16mm multi mode driver, and a XML2T5@5000k tint emitter on a 16mm pure copper star.well that was the easy part, I. Unscrewed the pill from the light I looked and the oem emitter is sitting on a 20mm aluminum star and is bonded which brings me to my first question , how to I go about centering the smaller star? Amd what size do I drill and tap the pill to mount the new copper star? And now the second question how do I mount new driver on opposite side of pill and the new spring on driver is im guessing about ..25"" shorter than oem spring, do I need to change the sping ? I usually use the longer than protected 3400 mah 18650B Panasonic s thanks in advance to Relic 38 iam a 4 wheeler Gords1001 and who. ever is willing to help guide me through this. Oh i almost forgot to mention i have lapped the copper star starting with 500 grit and worked up to 2000 grit paper iam intrested i. De-domming emmiter i just cant afford to ruin it mrs.Junkie had "THE TALK" with me..

There are some good suggestions in this thread! How much you do depends on what you want the light to do. I just finished cleaning up an Ultrafire C12 w/XM-L2 U3; the pill is much larger on this than on my XinTD V4.

Here’s what I did:
(1) Disassembled entire light, cleaned and checked everything (especially any solder joints).
(2) Copper braided tailcap spring.
(3) Removed star, cleaned up, sanded a bit, and added new compound.
(4) Removed original driver and replaced with Nanjg 105c with a few added 380mA 7135s (about 3.5 amps).
(5) Added thermal compound to pill threads, dieletric grease to body threads.
(6) Reassembled.

I now have a very nice light. Last night I ran it on high for about 40 minutes with an NCR18650PD and while it does get warm it could run indefinitely on high without getting uncomfortably hot or hurting anything, which was the goal with this build. If I wanted a bit more power I could just stack on a few more 7135s, add a copper star, add a Samsung 20R battery, and mix. :slight_smile:

I have learned so much on this forum and the cool thing with these lights is that you can change as little or as much as you’d like to meet your desired outcome.

Sounds nice RMM. Thanks for the report and congrats on the mod. The C12 is still one of my favorite single 18650 lights.

I really enjoy I have learned a lot and I know I have a lot more go learn and this is a great outlet for me it gives me something constructive since I get can't. Much physicay it focuses me on this this hobby and forum members has giilven so much to be grateful for

That's cool Junkie. I missed your post 15. Just read it. I don't have my emitters dedomed in my C12's either. I prefer the bigger hot spot as I like the light for midrange activities. Even with the domes, the lights have respectable throw.