Any UI code writers, modders for hire $$$  ?

chadvone · 2018-10-04T04:07:20.000Z

I am hoping you are interested, This UI in a few lights would be the end of a long quest for me.

Edit, very much like some of your work :sunglasses:

chadvone · 2018-10-04T05:31:15.000Z

Reserved, going to open it up some.

Andrew_Debbie · 2018-10-04T06:18:36.000Z

ToyKeeper:

Sounds like the concept is a work in progress.

What kind of budget do you have? Hiring software developers usually isn’t cheap.

OP needs to nail down the specification.

==

I have been thinking about building a flexible driver development board. One that can hold a couple of different ATTiny pinouts. I know everyone uses the ’85 because of the package. — Pads for AMC7135s, pads for an FET, a bread board area and screw terminals to connect to a host.

I’m sure it is easier to just buy a couple drivers and kludge but where is the fun in that…

Tom_Tom · 2018-10-04T08:41:56.000Z

Andrew_Debbie:

I have been thinking about building a flexible driver development board. One that can hold a couple of different ATTiny pinouts. I know everyone uses the ’85 because of the package. — Pads for AMC7135s, pads for an FET, a bread board area and screw terminals to connect to a host.

I’m sure it is easier to just buy a couple drivers and kludge but where is the fun in that…

Easiest is to buy something like https://uk.farnell.com/c/tools-production-supplies/prototyping-tools-breadboards/prototyping-ic-adapters for the SMD parts (MCU), and a breadboard such as K & H AD-11 Advanced Solderless Breadboard - 958 Tie Points | Rapid Online

And a bag full of leaded passives, even ones that you have salvaged from WEEE (a solder sucker and braid come in handy, and you might learn a little from taking such things apart).

As well as a lot of pre-made jumper wires, just to save tedious effort DIYing them.

No excuse for not trying things out, messing about, learning. Instead of sitting behind a PC playing with Eagle, (better KiCad) and sending underdeveloped designs to e.g. OSH Park for fabrication.

If something works on one of these breadboards, it will almost certainly work much better on a PCB. But it’s sort of a rite of passage to make it work cleanly under all circumstances, and satisfying.

You do need a ’scope though. (As well of course as a PSU or just a cell, and a multimeter.) There is a USB PC dual channel ’scope available from Hantek that is adequate to perhaps 20 MHz, which might be good enough on a budget. Even comes with a couple of probes. For £50. Total bargain. Even just for the probes.

You might not even need a soldering iron, if you learn how to dab solder paste onto SMD pads and warm it up with a hot air gun. But I would strongly recommend buying a very good iron, and learning how to use it.

This is not a tool to cheap-out on, nor the solder, and other materials. But Rosin flux and IPA for cleaning are quite generic and dirt cheap, and just work. It’s only when you want to do something a little more tricky that you might need more specialised stuff.

Flashy_Mike · 2018-10-04T11:23:12.000Z

One of my test setups:

This test setup costs about 10$ including programmer and all components.

You don’t need FETs and AMCs for testing, power LEDs would be too bright for longer testing anyway. Use simple 5mm or 3mm LEDs, one for each channel, connected to the MCUs output port with a resistor between. Much better for fine tuning and detecting bugs.
Many MCUs are available in DIL casings which you can fix on the breadboard without any adapter. There a adapter boards for surface mount versions of MCUs available at OSHPARK, made for a dollar or two.
A scope is helpful indeed, but frequencies can also be measured with most multimeters. A multimeter is required for sure.

chadvone · 2018-10-04T12:14:26.000Z

No sleep last night.
Changes coming to 3 4 5 clicks

Flashy_Mike · 2018-10-04T12:21:39.000Z

345 clicks is a lot …

Andrew_Debbie · 2018-10-04T13:49:39.000Z

Tom Tom:

Easiest is to buy something

I’ve got the basic tools and passives. I don’t have a decent oscilloscope anymore. I use MacOS and Ubuntu which might rule out the USB Hantek. I’d rather have a stand alone tool anyway. I don’t own a laptop… (sorry for the thread hijack —- I’ll go away now)

chadvone · 2018-10-05T01:19:19.000Z

chadvone:

No sleep last night.
Changes coming to 3 4 5 clicks

True that.

Hmmm, quoted myself, guess I need to learn the internet

eas · 2018-10-05T00:37:47.000Z

Andrew_Debbie:

Tom Tom:

Easiest is to buy something

I don’t have a decent oscilloscope anymore. I use MacOS and Ubuntu which might rule out the USB Hantek. I’d rather have a stand alone tool anyway.

I haven’t used it, but Sigrok runs on linux and MacOS and supports the Hantek USB scopes. The Digilent Analog Discovery also has software for MacOS and Linux. I hear you on a stand-alone scope, though.

chadvone · 2018-10-05T03:02:47.000Z

OP needs to nail down the specification.

Yes I do , I have it. Just getting it across to words. Maybe I make some Photos.

Tom_Tom · 2018-10-05T01:52:10.000Z

eas:

I hear you on a stand-alone scope, though.

Indeed, The USB devices are all very well as starter ’scopes, but nothing beats a real one, with tactile knobs for timebase, trigger level, post (and pre. on DSO) triggering delay. Basically the more knobs the better, touch screens, buttons and PC interfaces just get in the way.

Fortunately these are even affordable for first-world hobbyists, and it seems rather good. E.g. Amazon.co.uk

And Hantek DSO5102P Digital Storage Oscilloscope (DSO) Review - Maker Advisor

Other makes are also available.

20 years ago I had to pay £5000 each for LeCroys, with lesser specification and capability. Nowadays of course that sort of money gets you a LeCroy with almost unbelievable capability. It is so cheap to kit out a professional R+D lab nowadays, when the capital equipment is now such a small proportion of a skilled engineer’s salary, and of course mostly tax-deductible.

As long as you make enough money to have to pay tax in the countries where you do business, which is rather important, but that seems not to be understood by some companies.

chadvone · 2018-10-05T03:24:34.000Z

Ok, Got some Photos of how I want the UI to function. If anyone see any problems. Or has any Questions please let me know.

This UI could do what many different lights can do and many things lights cant do.
I believe it is very easy to navigate, and there isn’t much that needs to be remembered.

CP 1/2Max another CP-Max CP is not remembered
CC Jumps between to groups
P Press, ramps up from off, and up and down from on.
P after 3-7C, Think P for program, Or P for Pick a level.
3C Constant on Strobe, Beacon, Bike flasher, or an extra level
4C Squeeze light. Light only lights while button pressed. Power cycle to exit.
5C Squeeze to 3C or max strobe. Light only on while button pressed. Power cycle to exit.
6C Auto off. Light shuts off after time has passed
7C Extra disco modes, mood lighting, party flashers, battery Check. etc etc.

The G1 G2 brightness spacing probably needs more thought, as well as the ramp speed, and press times.

Andrew_Debbie · 2018-10-05T09:28:43.000Z

Flashy Mike:

This test setup costs about 10$ including programmer and all components.

I see your point. I ordered a programmer, ATtiny 85 on a board, and ribbon cable from FastTech.
I have stacks of these freebies from PCBWay. They must use them to fill out empty spaces in panels. The whole setup will be well under $10

Tom_Tom · 2018-10-05T22:15:22.000Z

That perfboard looks handy, but I find stripboard, e.g. Veroboard, or cheaper copies, easier to use.

Though there is the added expense of a track-cutter.

I still prefer to start with a re-usable socketed breadboard until I’m happy with the circuit design, and only then transfer it to a permanent soldered version.

For perfboard I like to use wire-wrap wire, but again you need a few tools, at least an insulation stripper, some needle nose pliers and a side cutter. Better still a wrap/unwrap tool to twist it around the leads of the components before soldering.

No, this is not really wirewrap, where an engineered square pin with sharp corners is used without solder, it’s just a hybrid way of quickly wiring then soldering things up, that works nicely IME.

A big illuminated magnifying glass on a stand also helps.

The wire-wrap wire is very easy to work with, the insulation very resistant to heat/botched soldering, and being silver plated, solderability is excellent.

As Flashy Mike has shown, building a development setup can be simple and inexpensive, whichever way you do it. I have two of the FastTech USBasps which work well, I didn’t realise that they also sold Atinys already mounted on 0.1” leads, I’d better have another look.

Andrew_Debbie · 2018-10-07T18:46:57.000Z

Tom Tom:

I didn’t realise that they also sold Atinys already mounted on 0.1” leads, I’d better have another look.

I ordered one of these…

https://www.fasttech.com/p/5054500

Andrew_Debbie · 2018-10-07T18:52:21.000Z

Might need a few modifications for flashlight coding.

Schematic:

s3.amazonaws.com

97a1bb28_DigisparkSchematic.pdf

7.32 KB

chadvone · 2018-10-11T03:04:34.000Z

Update.

Going to give it a shot myself.

Tom_Tom · 2018-10-11T03:03:02.000Z

Andrew_Debbie:

Might need a few modifications for flashlight coding.

Schematic:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/digistump-resources/files/97a1bb28_DigisparkSchematic.pdf

I’d recommend starting from the schematic of the BLF Q8 driver.

This is the classic FET+1, perfected by DEL, which is at the core of many subsequent drivers from other designers.

Note: R1 and R2, the old voltage divider, are not populated, current firmware uses a different method to measure cell voltage, and this, along with other firmare changes, reduced power consumption dramatically and freed up another pin (for e.g. driving a second bank of 7135s).

However if you want to experiment with e.g. BLF A6 or X6 drivers, and their simpler firmware, you would need to put them back.

DEL was generous enough to publish it, instead of only showing a PCB layout, and leaving it to the inquisitive to puzzle it out by reverse-engineering.

Here it is:

Q8 modding Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts

Don’t know if this is useful Tom. Done from memory of prototype#3, so may not match 100% what is in the production models. It also shows the 2-resistor version of the switchboard. If anyone sees something amiss I can correct it. Also need to add the FET part number. EDIT: FET part number added and R6 corrected to 4.99 ohm [image]

Open the image in a new tab and you’ll get the full size version from dropbox.

Tom_Tom · 2018-10-11T03:05:28.000Z

chadvone:

This thread can be deleted.

Please don’t ask for that. Otherwise the forum archive ceases to become a useful resource for others, in the future.