Any UI code writers, modders for hire $$$  ?

Andrew_Debbie · 2018-10-04T13:49:39.000Z

Tom Tom:

Easiest is to buy something

I’ve got the basic tools and passives. I don’t have a decent oscilloscope anymore. I use MacOS and Ubuntu which might rule out the USB Hantek. I’d rather have a stand alone tool anyway. I don’t own a laptop… (sorry for the thread hijack —- I’ll go away now)

chadvone · 2018-10-05T01:19:19.000Z

chadvone:

No sleep last night.
Changes coming to 3 4 5 clicks

True that.

Hmmm, quoted myself, guess I need to learn the internet

eas · 2018-10-05T00:37:47.000Z

Andrew_Debbie:

Tom Tom:

Easiest is to buy something

I don’t have a decent oscilloscope anymore. I use MacOS and Ubuntu which might rule out the USB Hantek. I’d rather have a stand alone tool anyway.

I haven’t used it, but Sigrok runs on linux and MacOS and supports the Hantek USB scopes. The Digilent Analog Discovery also has software for MacOS and Linux. I hear you on a stand-alone scope, though.

chadvone · 2018-10-05T03:02:47.000Z

OP needs to nail down the specification.

Yes I do , I have it. Just getting it across to words. Maybe I make some Photos.

Tom_Tom · 2018-10-05T01:52:10.000Z

eas:

I hear you on a stand-alone scope, though.

Indeed, The USB devices are all very well as starter ’scopes, but nothing beats a real one, with tactile knobs for timebase, trigger level, post (and pre. on DSO) triggering delay. Basically the more knobs the better, touch screens, buttons and PC interfaces just get in the way.

Fortunately these are even affordable for first-world hobbyists, and it seems rather good. E.g. Amazon.co.uk

And Hantek DSO5102P Digital Storage Oscilloscope (DSO) Review - Maker Advisor

Other makes are also available.

20 years ago I had to pay £5000 each for LeCroys, with lesser specification and capability. Nowadays of course that sort of money gets you a LeCroy with almost unbelievable capability. It is so cheap to kit out a professional R+D lab nowadays, when the capital equipment is now such a small proportion of a skilled engineer’s salary, and of course mostly tax-deductible.

As long as you make enough money to have to pay tax in the countries where you do business, which is rather important, but that seems not to be understood by some companies.

chadvone · 2018-10-05T03:24:34.000Z

Ok, Got some Photos of how I want the UI to function. If anyone see any problems. Or has any Questions please let me know.

This UI could do what many different lights can do and many things lights cant do.
I believe it is very easy to navigate, and there isn’t much that needs to be remembered.

CP 1/2Max another CP-Max CP is not remembered
CC Jumps between to groups
P Press, ramps up from off, and up and down from on.
P after 3-7C, Think P for program, Or P for Pick a level.
3C Constant on Strobe, Beacon, Bike flasher, or an extra level
4C Squeeze light. Light only lights while button pressed. Power cycle to exit.
5C Squeeze to 3C or max strobe. Light only on while button pressed. Power cycle to exit.
6C Auto off. Light shuts off after time has passed
7C Extra disco modes, mood lighting, party flashers, battery Check. etc etc.

The G1 G2 brightness spacing probably needs more thought, as well as the ramp speed, and press times.

Andrew_Debbie · 2018-10-05T09:28:43.000Z

Flashy Mike:

This test setup costs about 10$ including programmer and all components.

I see your point. I ordered a programmer, ATtiny 85 on a board, and ribbon cable from FastTech.
I have stacks of these freebies from PCBWay. They must use them to fill out empty spaces in panels. The whole setup will be well under $10

Tom_Tom · 2018-10-05T22:15:22.000Z

That perfboard looks handy, but I find stripboard, e.g. Veroboard, or cheaper copies, easier to use.

Though there is the added expense of a track-cutter.

I still prefer to start with a re-usable socketed breadboard until I’m happy with the circuit design, and only then transfer it to a permanent soldered version.

For perfboard I like to use wire-wrap wire, but again you need a few tools, at least an insulation stripper, some needle nose pliers and a side cutter. Better still a wrap/unwrap tool to twist it around the leads of the components before soldering.

No, this is not really wirewrap, where an engineered square pin with sharp corners is used without solder, it’s just a hybrid way of quickly wiring then soldering things up, that works nicely IME.

A big illuminated magnifying glass on a stand also helps.

The wire-wrap wire is very easy to work with, the insulation very resistant to heat/botched soldering, and being silver plated, solderability is excellent.

As Flashy Mike has shown, building a development setup can be simple and inexpensive, whichever way you do it. I have two of the FastTech USBasps which work well, I didn’t realise that they also sold Atinys already mounted on 0.1” leads, I’d better have another look.

Andrew_Debbie · 2018-10-07T18:46:57.000Z

Tom Tom:

I didn’t realise that they also sold Atinys already mounted on 0.1” leads, I’d better have another look.

I ordered one of these…

https://www.fasttech.com/p/5054500

Andrew_Debbie · 2018-10-07T18:52:21.000Z

Might need a few modifications for flashlight coding.

Schematic:

s3.amazonaws.com

97a1bb28_DigisparkSchematic.pdf

7.32 KB

chadvone · 2018-10-11T03:04:34.000Z

Update.

Going to give it a shot myself.

Tom_Tom · 2018-10-11T03:03:02.000Z

Andrew_Debbie:

Might need a few modifications for flashlight coding.

Schematic:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/digistump-resources/files/97a1bb28_DigisparkSchematic.pdf

I’d recommend starting from the schematic of the BLF Q8 driver.

This is the classic FET+1, perfected by DEL, which is at the core of many subsequent drivers from other designers.

Note: R1 and R2, the old voltage divider, are not populated, current firmware uses a different method to measure cell voltage, and this, along with other firmare changes, reduced power consumption dramatically and freed up another pin (for e.g. driving a second bank of 7135s).

However if you want to experiment with e.g. BLF A6 or X6 drivers, and their simpler firmware, you would need to put them back.

DEL was generous enough to publish it, instead of only showing a PCB layout, and leaving it to the inquisitive to puzzle it out by reverse-engineering.

Here it is:

Q8 modding Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts

Don’t know if this is useful Tom. Done from memory of prototype#3, so may not match 100% what is in the production models. It also shows the 2-resistor version of the switchboard. If anyone sees something amiss I can correct it. Also need to add the FET part number. EDIT: FET part number added and R6 corrected to 4.99 ohm [image]

Open the image in a new tab and you’ll get the full size version from dropbox.

Tom_Tom · 2018-10-11T03:05:28.000Z

chadvone:

This thread can be deleted.

Please don’t ask for that. Otherwise the forum archive ceases to become a useful resource for others, in the future.

chadvone · 2018-10-11T03:09:12.000Z

As you were writing this, I decided to edit my post. Even though I don’t understand what your saying. I may in the future.
PLease keep going.

Anyone what to share more info on there test set ups?

Tom_Tom · 2018-10-11T06:03:05.000Z

Andrew_Debbie:

Might need a few modifications for flashlight coding.

Schematic:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/digistump-resources/files/97a1bb28_DigisparkSchematic.pdf

It is set up for Aurdino coding, including their bootloader.

Which is fine. And has opened up some sort of coding to a great many.

But if you want to use C, rather than their interpreter, and develop compact code to run on a minimalist embedded device, best off starting in Atmel Studio and learning the hard way I think.

For which I think you will need an USBasp, not an Isp, (or the basic USB connection baked into these things, with their bootloader, that takes up a lot of space).

I have no idea how tricky it might be to return these things to vanilla Attiny 85s, but it might even require a high voltage programmer to re-set some fuses.

They do look good though, I suspect the one you linked to, and many others, are now knock-offs. The real ones from the original designers cost much more, and are now unavailable. But still less than a cup of over-priced coffee, or half a pint of “craft” beer. Sad.

Take a look at e.g. Julian Iletts channel for some background. This is a very old video (2014) but explains a few things.

And yes these MCUs have been around for a long while. Consider them mature (extremely so).

And take a look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0B88dsW93SA

I only dabble in firmware enough to exercise my hardware designs with test harnesses, the clever work is done by proper skilled developers.

Andrew_Debbie · 2018-10-11T09:21:30.000Z

Tom Tom:

Andrew_Debbie:

Might need a few modifications for flashlight coding.

Schematic:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/digistump-resources/files/97a1bb28_DigisparkSchematic.pdf

It is set up for Aurdino coding, including their bootloader.

For which I think you will need an USBasp,

I have a USBasp on the way. I was planning to use that to reprogram the ATtiny85. The board brings all the pins out to headers, so I wouldn’t even need a clip. It didn’t occur to me that the USBasp might not be able to change fuse settings. If it doesn’t how do people set the fuses?

< sigh > I need to finish reading the 25/45/85 data sheet.

If it doesn’t work it was only a couple of dollars. I might be able to use it elsewhere.

I was planning on using Ubuntu with avr-gcc to compile.

ToyKeeper · 2018-10-11T09:29:27.000Z

If the usbasp can flash the firmware, it can also set the fuses. But if the MCU is very underclocked or uses the reset pin, it could require high-voltage reprogramming.

As for learning, there is a fairly significant amount of example code in the repository to learn from… and for making e-switch UIs, there’s also a UI toolkit which eliminates most of the need to touch low-level code. The toolkit takes a significant chunk of ROM, but it makes the rest of the process much easier and may also reduce code size overall compared to older coding styles.

Tom_Tom · 2018-10-11T18:45:32.000Z

ToyKeeper:

As for learning, there is a fairly significant amount of example code in the repository to learn from… and for making e-switch UIs, there’s also a UI toolkit which eliminates most of the need to touch low-level code.

I’ve already pointed Chadvone there, on the backchannel.

Hopefully not another Flintrock (I don’t think so at all).

The more the merrier, we do need more talent.

Tom_Tom · 2018-10-11T19:50:02.000Z

OK, I’m such an idiot, I never thought that they would still make these things in big leaded packages.

See https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/microcontrollers/1331672/

For an Attiny 85 in 8 pin DIP for £1.

And you can bet that it is genuine, from RS.

Get some plug-in breadboard, a USBasp, ribbon cable, headers, a few passives, then develop-away.

I’ll probably pick up a dozen, next time I am home, from the local depot.

DavidEF · 2018-10-11T20:16:19.000Z

Tom Tom:

OK, I’m such an idiot, I never thought that they would still make these things in big leaded packages.

See https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/microcontrollers/1331672/

For an Attiny 85 in 8 pin DIP for £1.

And you can bet that it is genuine, from RS.

Get some plug-in breadboard, a USBasp, ribbon cable, headers, a few passives, then develop-away.

I’ll probably pick up a dozen, next time I am home, from the local depot.

Well, there’s also THIS little ATtiny chip programming adapter. It’s made to accept several different leaded chips.