Any way to fix this K18?

Bamba · 2019-02-13T10:12:38.000Z

Hi all,

My EDC UltraTac k18 has fallen maybe 20-30 times. Last time was probably one too many…
So it’s not working so great since.
Sometimes I can’t get it to lit at all, sometimes it just switches modes on it’s own, and in any case it’s always jittering, in any mode - almost flickering. Of course I changed battery and cleaned the contacts, but that did not help.

Does it sound like something I might be able to fix?

(BTW I like the flashlight a lot, but it has a major shortcomming - the tail stand is badly designed, if you have anything connected to that ring it’ll never be stable. I have mine on a keysmart pocket-clip with a small split ring; that was enough to account for probably half the times it fall off a surface)

Bamba

CRX · 2019-02-13T10:47:56.000Z

Loose driver retaining ring?

Bamba · 2019-02-13T21:29:05.000Z

CRX:

Loose driver retaining ring?

Ok, learned something new.
I ordered some cheap but hopefully suitable pliers, so we’ll see in a few weeks.

CRX · 2019-02-13T21:29:17.000Z

Sturdy tweezers?

hank · 2019-02-13T22:50:54.000Z

Also take a look at the springs — often they’re cut leaving a sharp point contacting the battery that may dig into the cell or scrape across it. If the drop compressed the spring it may be bouncing like a phonograph needle instead of staying in firm contact. Bending the end of the spring so it’s parallel to the surface will give better contact too, as will a dab of conductive (“Nyogel” or “bulb grease”) lubricant .

deleted-200707 · 2019-02-14T00:46:39.000Z

just stretching the spring will improve the connection.

hank · 2019-02-14T01:01:51.000Z

>stretching the spring

Yes but you can do better; if the spring end is cut and bent so only a sharp point makes contact, any bounce can still interrupt the connection. If the spring end is rebent or filed a bit to make a large flat contact area, it’s less likely to disconnect.

Muto · 2019-02-14T01:08:14.000Z

hank:

>stretching the spring

Yes but you can do better; if the spring end is cut and bent so only a sharp point makes contact, any bounce can still interrupt the connection. If the spring end is rebent or filed a bit to make a large flat contact area, it’s less likely to disconnect.

This is why I like to put a solder dollup on the end of the spring when doing a wire bypass. If you use the end of the wire to bridge the curl it makes it easy to get a nice solder button.
Once applied then file the button flat so you get a nice contact patch.