anyone seen this driver before??

link i found and translated…

tractor supply sells a cheap little zoomie.

its your typical 3-AAA little job, but, has the aspherical zoom.

its not that bad for a cheap light you can put your hands on in the store…typical flood to complete emitter zoom. takes a 18650 unprotected i had laying around.

screw in aluminum pill, lens moves not the pill.

MY driver in MY flashlight has that row of 4 solder pads “empty”… the one in the picture has them filled up with some small component. Right now? MINE has hi-low-disco…

was wondering if anyone knew anything about this little sucker. I realize its better to just go BUY a driver and emitter and drop in it? but since the page lists it as a “3 watt” driver, and i am only seeing 600 odd milliamps on the tailcap reading with a fresh 18650… can anythin be done with it power wise? or, with modes?

might make a really cheap IR zoomie for me, maybe… if all i have to do is emitter swap for IR…

PS - i cant locate the emitter anywhere on the flashlight wiki… square pill, no stripes visible… 4 prominent leads, 2 per side… the leads kind of “arch” down in to the emitter surface. yellow edges to square focused emitter and white inside the square.

It is a simple but effective direct drive driver with PWM regulation of the lower modes. There are two minus pads on the driver, that row of components are current limiting resistors that are bypassed if you use the minus-pad on the left (so then you don't need them), I guess that is already the case in your flashlight, so no easy solution there. I don't know if that cx2859 part just does the PWM-regulation or that it is also the switcher (FET), I guess the latter because otherwise this driver would not be complete. The internal resistance of the FET is a major factor involved in how much current is delivered, but it should not be so bad that you only get 600mA.

You see, I'm not one of the elcetronics guru's here, it is just that I have seen very similiar drivers to yours around.

well, you may not be the electronics guru here? But, you DO PORTRAY an electronics guru on an internet TV show, and that sounds marvelous to me, LMAO

i did some electronics back in the day? mainly digital, and i used to program microprocessors… but? god help me, i try to be “practical” about it… I also follow a “plot line” fine in a description and component description? BUT, i lack “practical circuit details”.

i would set up a big digital logic schematic? i wouldnt know, for instance, to bypass certain leads with the little electrolytics all over the place, nor would i know to tie the “unused” legs to GND or they would go willy nilly on the gates, lol (half-@$$ed designs? but, not enough solder fumes in my nostrils, lol)

these drivers are “power supplies” to me… i always just “grabbed” a power supply, or, just used one from another unit. I never bothered to get crazy into power supply design.

I was the “goto” guy to run a carnaugh map to reduce the “logic” down to simplify the design and keep the logic correct… and i always ended up programming the d@mned microprocessors… then? because i lack practical circuit knowledge? One of the savvy “solder fumes” guys had to prog the u-processor and decide on its carrier board needs, lol…

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if its any HELP to you? i tried searching the cx2859 chip… i came up with various papers on that number and similar code numbers… most included “transceiver driver” or maybe it was “transceiver line driver” in one of the descriptions…

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if you dont MIND ME too much, and my asking?

if i set up a simple gradeschool LED and used a current limiting resistor? i would hit “LED calculator” site… and i would put the resistor on the + line… i have seen somewhere, someone mentioning putting the current resistance on the - line, i suppose thats what they are doing here.

yeah, my 4 pads are empty, and you said the - line on the left, was the direct drive line… thats the one used on mine.

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BUT… now that you casted your internet pearls before the swine that is me? i have a different light, i asked what it looked like, and a member here said it looked a lot like a 801/802 series light they were little throwers.

with THIS description of THIS driver? THAT driver has a couple “pads” on it? and those pads are “occupied”… and i was wondering why there were multiple negative leads on it…

since one of the “pads” says “LO” on that one… that makes the other pad right above it likely the “high” pad… now i can go look at THAT one, and maybe its as simple as moving the negative lead to the “other” negative lead, which would be the “direct drive” lead, eh?

(its an underpowered XPg… less than 1 amp on tailcap reading with a fresh protected 18650… 710ma on HI and 180ma or something on LO…)

ugh… that one has “1R0” in the two pads… thats 1.0 ohm resistors… but, it has TWO positive outputs, the one used is L0… teh unused one is L1… theres also an L1 and L2 negative outputs… one used, one unused.

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dont mine me TOO much, please… i am about just like a little kid who just figured out i can pop off cheap drivers that are “pressed in” and play with them, lol…

most likely gonna buy several drivers and simply swapping out the drivers to make “known” amerage for identified pills seems the most practical solution…

still… fun to learn about it…

the “801 style” light?? with 2 positive leads, 2 pads occupied, and 2 negative leads? probably COULD be modified, if i could ID the driver, but, nothing comes up…

both drivers are caliper-ing out, at around 17mm nominal, both press fits…

this is getting fun, hee hee…