The diodes and FETs from Digikey came in earlier this week (they ship FAST), but I hadn’t had time to try them until now, and I only had time to try a quick swap of the diode so far on the board that has the R100 stacked on top of the original R200.
It was kind of a pain, as I don’t really have any SMD tools, so I just used my soldering iron to pull the original SS34 off, which left solder still on the pads, so I then put some flux on the pads (my original intention for that was mainly to prevent the new diode from blowing off the board when I used my heat gun). I then put the diode on the pads, and used my heat gun, on “low” blower setting, but with the highest temperature, and was pleased that it actually reflowed the new diode without blowing all of the other components off of the board.
Anyway, I re-soldered the toroid and the emitter leads, and did a quick test and the driver still worked (it still has the blinky modes, etc.). I only did some short tests, maybe 30 - 60 secs on high, measuring at the emitter with a clamp, I was able to get 4+ amps at the emitter, and no puffs of smoke or burning odor.
Note that I haven’t switched the FETs (the A0EC/AOEC?) out yet.
Now, I have to really find a light to put this into, as the pill on the one I tried earlier was much too shallow (height-wise).
P.S. Emitter was an old XM-L something that I had reflowed on to a Noctigon, and the Noctigon was sitting on a 2” x 2” x (maybe) 1/4” piece of copper from an old CPU heatsink.
EDIT: This is the diode I used for the above: http://www.digikey.com/short/vp9q2
EDIT 2: Here’s a pic I took of a test. The emitter wire is looped through the clamp meter, as wight (I think) suggested, so the current (8.89) is twice the actual emitter current (~4.45 amps). The current (4.5 amps) and voltage (4.7V) on the power supply display (in the background) should be about right: