Hi all,
I’m planning to buy a second Wurkkos HD01 Pro as a gift.
I saw that is currently on sale in the limited edition with blue coating that looks very nice.
Based on your experience, the coloured coatings like this blue or the orange one, are as strong as the black one?
I wouldn’t like ti buy something that is too easy to scratch.
Thanks
D
My cool blue TS10SG got a chip in it when I discovered I needed to use a much firmer grip on it to change modes when it was clipped on a hat. I haven’t had it for too long and can’t say beyond that, but I’ve been wondering if it’s going to fade if exposed to sunlight like black lights.
Black or colored, they will scratch the same.
Choose whatever color you like and either be careful, or just accept that you can scratch whatever color, including black, based on your behavior..
for hat use, you may appreciate a Longer Black clip Wurkkos offers.. it will slide farther onto the bill of a baseball cap…
The Silver clip the TS10SG comes with is shorter and tighter, more difficult to put on a hat, and more of the light hangs over the bill of the cap. For hat use, the longer clip works better, and fits better.
here is a visual of an Olight baton clip that is very similar (I put plastic tubing on the arms so I could test fit without scratching):
installing and removing a clip will always leave marks, but they will he hidden as long as a clip is installed.
The long clip from Wurkkos only comes in one color, Black. The Olight clips come in other colors.. They work the same 
I disagree… the blue on the ts10 max is thinner then the black which isn’t what I’d consider normal black tougher ano . The nicer greyish blue is I’m guessing a thinner ano than the more aqua blue on the ts10 sg with the sft25r .
I think the body part vs the head are slightly different too . I accidentally broke out some sandpaper and was torturing a black ts10 just for fun .stay tuned I’ll be done in may .
Took off the trashy two way clip on the latest lights . I’d run out of the UTorch UT01 clip < same as the Lumintop clip that works do well
Took and bent the clip with a couple needle nose pliers at the bend . Trying to work the metal at what would be the end of a normal clip . Not a fan of any over the hat clip at all . This one is an extremely bad one and a worse regular style clip .
The first one snapped right in the middle of the bend , I bent it a little , I filed it down and rounded the end and took off the little flares on each arm of the clip . Shaped it and tried to polish it slightly since the shine on the stainless underneath isn’t half as nice as the finish on the top of the clip from the factory .
Works much better and consider it a big success . This one works .
Time to do it again . Protecting the clip with a bit of cereal box . Needle nose pliers all the way in the bend and lifting with a second set of pliers to open the bend up and ? Work the metal ? This time the clip broke right at the bottom of the hole nearest the bend . Took a bigger pair of snips and was going to use them incorrectly to sideways pry the opening wider / didn’t work but figured I might be able to score the metal with I little biting down on these snips and pop the clip snapped again right in the middle of the bend , quick bend in the vise for basic shape 2 minutes with a file and it’s done .
Modified my technique for getting clips off lights without scratching ano . I as using plastic dental pics to lift the end and shove 1 inch pieces of drinking straw under the arms of the clip . Now I used a bamboo skewer with the piece of soda straw around the skewer . Kind of an easier one hand event . The other hand is free to hold the light and get ready to be stabbed when the clip slips
Although I cant explain it, I believe the black is stronger.
Lets clarify the difference between Type 2 and Type 3 Anodising
Wurkkos uses Type 2 Anodising, both the black and colors are Type 2
Zebralight uses Type 3 Anodising, it does not come in rainbow colors.
Dont confuse Black Type 3 with Black Type 2.. just because they are black, does not mean they are the same thickness and hardness.
So you are saying black type II is the same strength as colored type II?
I remember reading somewhere that black type II was stronger.
The colored maglights seems to scratch much easier than the black. Might be my imagination.
yes
The Maximum thickness of Type 2 is 25 microns
The Minimum thickness of Type 3 is 25 microns
" Some Maglite flashlights, specifically the premium ML300LX series, feature Type III (hard-coat) anodizing, but many of their classic and standard models use Type II anodizing."
Black Type 3 is Harder, And thicker, than Black Type 2
Wurkkos does not use Type 3, they use the softer, thinner and less expensive Type 2.
Is Black Type 2 harder than colored Type 2?
" No, the color of Type II anodizing does not affect its hardness; hardness is determined by the anodizing process itself, not the dye used to color it. Both black and colored Type II anodizing have the same base hardness, which is softer than the harder, thicker Type III hard-coat anodizing. The black color of Type II is achieved by adding a dye to the porous oxide layer, and its durability in terms of UV resistance can be greater than some lighter colors"
I have no idea about the specs on flashlights production, for this reason I asked here in the forum.
But, even if really rarely use anodising on the parts I’m responsible of, I work on aluminium metallic structures so I can give my 2 cents:
For sure I can say that my Wurkkos flashlights (all blacks) don’t have hardcoat anodising on it.
Colouring in anodising process is obtained adding dyes that penetrates the pores of the oxide layers.
Even if it can seems counterintuitive, because the aluminium oxide is similar to white powder, in the anodisation the thicker is the coating the darker and denser will be the oxide layer (natural colour is similar to a dark back-ish/grey-ish), so it’s more difficult to get light colour on it.
For this reason I’m pretty sure that light coloured finishing are easy to scratch, because it means that the oxide layer is thinner.
But the dark blue I saw on the limited run for the anniversary looks really appealing and from pure technical point of view it could be thicker than the orange or cyan option.
Anyway, the more I think about this and the more I’m convinced that is really difficult that they would change the process according to different colours.
At the same time, since the black is something like a standard, it may have a specific treatment and would be easy to have a thicker and stronger.
thank you
have you decided to buy it?
I need to correct myself…it seems that they are using hard coating, at least on the FC11C (that i don’t own)…interesting…
I’m buying for sure a TS23 (for me) and a TS10SG + a HD01 Pro (for gift).
I just need to choose the colours in the next few hours.
I’m also tempted pull the trigger on a TS11 with 18650 tube since I’m having free shipment and 20% discount…the more I look at the Wurkkos catalog the more I’d like to have them all…but this is a different story and definitely off topic. 
I put the ts10 max in the picture to show the top edge of the light . This is ano that wore off when trying to get the head off using just rubber grippy non slip pads . I won’t swear to it but think this wear mark and another like it on the other side of the bezel happened from bare handing and the light slipping against it . I love the color of the blue , really like the light despite others complaining it’s not bright enough or not efficient. Instead I cut probably my best circle ever and popped the - 1/8 minus green filter on the lens .
Love the light and bought it immediately when they dropped after missing the Father’s Day fc11c in the same blue ano . I caught a deal on a green fc11c and have to say it’s one of my least favorite lights . So I love what people hate and hate what others love . All I can say is … they’re wrong :).
Imho the grayish blue is a very thin ano . Buy it because it’s a nice color but don’t abuse it or expect it to last .
So if anodising is colored it is necesserily type 2, while black can be either?
yes
technically yes, but if the light is offered in colors, and the black option costs the same, it will also be Type 2
Type 3 is limited to expensive brands such as Zebralight, Fenix and Malkoff, and they will specifically say that it uses Type 3 Hard Anodizing
you can ask google if a brand uses Hard Anodizing for example:
“does Fenix use Hard Anodizing”
Yes, Fenix uses HA-III hard anodizing on its products
Trust but Verify, Google is known for mistakes (they quote MFG web pages, which are full of inaccuracies)
Type III can be colored, but it doesn’t allow for bright and vibrant colors as Type II.
can you give a specific example of a Colored Type 3 flashlight please?
No flashlight I’d know of.
Edit: found one. Skilhunt E3A in Slate Blue.
Well, if we believe what they have written on the website, also the Wurkkos FC11C.
