Armytek Wizard Pro v3 XHP50 VS Zebralight H600fc MK IV XHP50.2 - What would you buy?

Stefano · 2020-01-02T17:51:44.000Z

They are both good tint.
The comparison I made was very short it was cold and then the day after I ship the Zebralight back due to the parasitic discharge.

The evening I made the comparison between the two lights I also made 3 short videos but they were made very quickly and are of poor quality, if you want here are the links:

The tint of the Zebra is better (it is Hi-Cri) but this also involves a small reduction in brightness.

The Wizard Pro is slightly brighter and has a better throw, the Zebra has a better tint and a very homogeneous beam.

But there is no winner and there is no loser (I speak of color tint, beam and brightness)

I want to specify that the Wizard’s hue is also good (like all Armytek I bought) but you can’t compare a Hi Cri torch vs one that isn’t.

I managed to try the Wizard Pro in a wood two hours ago, it left me very satisfied and it’s really powerful.
I hope this Pro version is as reliable as the Wizard Basic and the ELF C2, I have bought them in the past, used a lot and have proven to be robust and reliable.

WalkIntoTheLight · 2020-01-02T18:26:15.000Z

I recently bought a Zebralight H600Fc MkIV. I’m really pleased with the light and tint. High CRI in 4000K is my favourite. Previously, I only had Nichia 219B emitters with that tint, but the Cree XHP50.2 seems to match it with much higher efficiency. At least with the frosted lens, which probably smooths out any beam imperfections.

This light also seems to give a lower moonlight option than my other MkIV models (SC600w HI, SC600w Plus, and SC64w HI). So, I’m pleased to have that option, even though I tend not to use the lowest moonlight very much. But, it’s good to see they’re offering the lower moonlight again, like they used to have on their older models.

Frosted lens is a really nice option for this headlamp. Great visibility up close, but not the harsh shadows you get from the mule version. Headstrap is comfortable, too.

I have a couple of Armytek lights (not a headlamp), and they’re nice. I prefer Zebralights, though. I like their UI better, and the feel of the body and switch.

SKV89 · 2020-01-26T19:50:10.000Z

WalkIntoTheLight:

I recently bought a Zebralight H600Fc MkIV. I’m really pleased with the light and tint. High CRI in 4000K is my favourite. Previously, I only had Nichia 219B emitters with that tint, but the Cree XHP50.2 seems to match it with much higher efficiency. At least with the frosted lens, which probably smooths out any beam imperfections.

This light also seems to give a lower moonlight option than my other MkIV models (SC600w HI, SC600w Plus, and SC64w HI). So, I’m pleased to have that option, even though I tend not to use the lowest moonlight very much. But, it’s good to see they’re offering the lower moonlight again, like they used to have on their older models.

Frosted lens is a really nice option for this headlamp. Great visibility up close, but not the harsh shadows you get from the mule version. Headstrap is comfortable, too.

I have a couple of Armytek lights (not a headlamp), and they’re nice. I prefer Zebralights, though. I like their UI better, and the feel of the body and switch.

I heard the H600Fc MKIV has alot of green tint so I’m curious why you think it is similar to the Nichia 219B.

puglife2 · 2020-01-27T01:05:25.000Z

The CS at armytek is the worst in the galaxy but i don’t care their headlamps are the best

SKV89 · 2020-01-27T06:39:17.000Z

My experience with Amytek CS is that they never reply to emails whether it is a presale question or after sales warranty. I was able to get quick response from them through Facebook message though. They replaced my Prime A2 Pro and gave me options for additional freebies to choose from. The CS was actually really good if you contact them through facebook PM. I’m a big fan of AT light design and finish. Feels very premium but rugged. Driver efficiency and regulation is above average.

zak.wilson · 2020-01-27T07:04:54.000Z

There is now a factory Wizard Pro 144A. If they hadn’t screwed with the firmware, it would be perfect. They did screw with the firmware, and half-broke the thermal regulation (it doesn’t step up when cooled anymore) and introduced an undocumented UI condition where the shortcuts don’t work right. They briefly broke the low-voltage protection, which is really dangerous, but only a few went out like that.

I’m not very confident in it knowing they’ve been poking at the firmware ineptly, but the 144A in that optic sure is pretty.

SKV89 · 2020-01-27T07:12:08.000Z

zak.wilson:

There is now a factory Wizard Pro 144A. If they hadn’t screwed with the firmware, it would be perfect. They did screw with the firmware, and half-broke the thermal regulation (it doesn’t step up when cooled anymore) and introduced an undocumented UI condition where the shortcuts don’t work right. They briefly broke the low-voltage protection, which is really dangerous, but only a few went out like that.

I’m not very confident in it knowing they’ve been poking at the firmware ineptly, but the 144A in that optic sure is pretty.

Do we know for sure that AT broke the firmware such that thermal regulation does not step up when cooled? That would be very disappointing. But it seems like they did fix the missing LVP in the final version so I’m hoping they fixed thermal regulation too.

fireblade893 · 2020-01-27T09:45:23.000Z

SKV89:

My experience with Amytek CS is that they never reply to emails whether it is a presale question or after sales warranty. I was able to get quick response from them through Facebook message though. They replaced my Prime A2 Pro and gave me options for additional freebies to choose from. The CS was actually really good if you contact them through facebook PM. I’m a big fan of AT light design and finish. Feels very premium but rugged. Driver efficiency and regulation is above average.

Your experience is different to mine then. I contacted them about my Wizard pro XHP50 which I dropped from my pocket and broke the lense.

I contacted them via email and Victoria replied saying that even though I dropped and broke the glass , that they will honour the warranty ( I told them I bought here on BLF) and replace it with a new one, I have to ship it to Germany (I’m UK ) but they will give me a voucher to spend in store to cover cost of the postage.

I must admit that was end of last year and I haven’t got round to it as I use it daily so I really need to get it sent, however I was impressed with their offer and the speed she replied to me.

WalkIntoTheLight · 2020-01-27T15:26:54.000Z

SKV89:

WalkIntoTheLight:

I recently bought a Zebralight H600Fc MkIV. I’m really pleased with the light and tint. High CRI in 4000K is my favourite. Previously, I only had Nichia 219B emitters with that tint, but the Cree XHP50.2 seems to match it with much higher efficiency. At least with the frosted lens, which probably smooths out any beam imperfections.

This light also seems to give a lower moonlight option than my other MkIV models (SC600w HI, SC600w Plus, and SC64w HI). So, I’m pleased to have that option, even though I tend not to use the lowest moonlight very much. But, it’s good to see they’re offering the lower moonlight again, like they used to have on their older models.

Frosted lens is a really nice option for this headlamp. Great visibility up close, but not the harsh shadows you get from the mule version. Headstrap is comfortable, too.

I have a couple of Armytek lights (not a headlamp), and they’re nice. I prefer Zebralights, though. I like their UI better, and the feel of the body and switch.

I heard the H600Fc MKIV has alot of green tint so I’m curious why you think it is similar to the Nichia 219B.

I’m comparing the beams side-by-side. No green in the H600Fc, nor in the 219B of course. The zebralight is a bit warmer than the 4000K 219B, so it’s difficult to compare directly. The warmer tint makes it look more yellow, but I’m not sure if that’s just because it’s warmer. Maybe it’s also closer to the neutral BBL which makes it look more yellow, because the Nichia 219B tends to be a bit on the magenta side of the BBL.

Anyway, no, there’s no green in the H600Fc, or at least not any I notice when white-wall hunting. If it wasn’t a frosted lens, I suspect there would be some green in the corona, but that gets smoothed out with the frosted lens. I don’t the Zebralight sells any of the high-CRI 50.2 emitters without a frosted lens, so I’m not sure what they look like without frosting. I know my SC600w Plus, with a regular (non high CRI) emitter and clear lens, does show a bit of green in the corona, but it’s not too bad.

BurningPlayd0h · 2020-01-27T20:36:51.000Z

I put some 1/8 minus green filter on my H600c (they do sell unfrosted versions now) and it is noticeably rosier than the 4000K 219Cs and LH351Ds (including sliced 351s) I have in several lights. Experimented with adding some diffusion film to smooth out the beam but the tint shift is minimal enough that I’ll stick with the increased throw of a clear lens.

zak.wilson · 2020-01-30T02:18:02.000Z

SKV89:

Do we know for sure that AT broke the firmware such that thermal regulation does not step up when cooled? That would be very disappointing. But it seems like they did fix the missing LVP in the final version so I’m hoping they fixed thermal regulation too.

We know that people have seen the combination of working LVP and the presence of an undocumented UI state in place of the removed momentary mode, in which the shortcuts don’t work and every click is an on/off toggle. I’m not sure anybody has tested the thermal regulation on a sample with working LVP.

SKV89 · 2020-02-14T17:21:58.000Z

Here’s a comparison between these two headlamps

Armytek Wizard Pro vs Zebralight H600fc MKIV Measurements 18650 Flashlights

Took readings for a few Armytek Wizards and compared it with the Zebralight H600fc MKIV. Output taken at 2s after turn-on with the Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights. Spectrometer used is a Sekonic C-800-U. Armytek Wizard Pro XHP50 WW (2020) H2 1,521 lumens 3988K -0.0018 DUV 82.9 CRI Blue light relative amplitude 1.00 20.1 R9 65.4 R12 80 Rf 100 Rg included battery Armytek Wizard Pro XHP50 WW (2020) H1 788 lumens 3898K -0.0008 DUV 83.8 CRI Blue light relative amplitude …

Quadrupel · 2020-02-14T19:04:58.000Z

And one of important things for headlamp is weight:
Armytek Wizard Pro - 65gr.
Zebralight H600FC - 39gr

Pavlo · 2020-02-14T19:01:21.000Z

Quadrupel:

And one of important things for headlamp is weight:
Armentek Wizard - 65gr. :person_facepalming:
Zebralight H600FC - 39gr

I agree, weight is a huge factor and this will always give Zebralight the edge in my opinion, even if it doesn’t have built in recharging.
If Zebralight uses better LED’s that can compete with Nichia tints, I would buy a Zebralight over an Armytek without hesitation.

Stefano · 2021-09-21T02:14:12.000Z

I come back to this thread after a long time.
In previous messages I wrote that I bought a H600Fc MKIV and then after a few months a Wizard Pro Warm (V3).
Try both then the Zebralight sent back by parasite discharge.

It came back after a few months (it was repaired) when it came back I verified that the repair was good and the parasite discharge resolved.

In the meantime I discovered that the Wizard also has a parasitic discharge (but less strong) I did not return it because it left me very satisfied and I was afraid that a replacement specimen would have other problems.

I have been using the Wizard V3 for almost two years now with no problems (just loosen the tailcap when not in use), sorry to know that it is EOL.
I learned that the new Wizard C2 V4 have a different thermal management (it seems to be alone 58 C° degrees before stepdown)

I am writing here because after a long time tonight I took the Zebralight out of its box, it has been unused ever since.
I tried the two headlamp again, as I remembered the Wizard is the brighter, the H600Fc looks much warmer as a tint and the colors are nicer but on Turbo there is a noticeable brightness difference.
I used a lux meter at home to try to figure out how much, the difference is about 25% in favor of the Wizard.

After this I wonder if there is a difference in the led.
A long time ago I bought a Wizard Pro and I immediately returned it because it was not very bright, I don’t know if it was a bad specimen or it was “only” XHP50.
The Wizard that I bought later (and that I still have) is definitely XHP50.2 because the difference is really impressive.

But now I’m wondering if the H600Fc I bought in mid-2019 was only XHP50 or already updated XHP50.2
Or if this difference in brightness between the two Headlamps (Wizard wins with 25% more brightness) it is because the Zebra is HI CRI.
The type of lens could also affect but a difference of 25% seems strange to me
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks

[Edit post]
After writing I did further tests.
The Wizard is much brighter but perhaps it is not possible to make a true comparison between the two competitors.
The beam of the Zebralight H600Fc is wider and the brightness more uniform, on the sides it is much brighter than the Wizard.
The Wizard has a lot more throw.
Two similar headlamps in typology but with important differences.
After using the Wizard for a long time trying the Zebralight it made me notice the weight difference.
I am happy with the weight of the Wizard Pro but the Zebralight is much lighter (Zebralight does not have the magnet, this can also affect the weight a little)

Stefano · 2021-09-21T01:18:19.000Z

Maybe it can be interesting for someone.
Also in 2019 I bought Zebralight H604c and H604d (at two different times of the year, so i don’t know if there can be a difference between the leds (XHP50 vs XHP50.2 ?)

I have now done a test with luxmeter, between H604c and H604d there is a brightness difference of exactly 10% (the H604d is 10% brighter)
On the website it has always been stated that the power is identical and even the cs of Zebralight questioned replied to me in his time that there are no differences in brightness (except the tint)

goshdogit · 2021-09-21T02:46:33.000Z

Hello Stefano! I saw your user name and wondered if you were Stefano ZebraLight from YouTube. I scrolled back to the earlier pages and discovered that I was correct! I did not know you were active on BLF.

I enjoy your video comparisons very much! I have recommended them many times to people on BLF and r/flashlight who are deciding on clear lens, frosted lens, or mule headlamps. I have one of each lens type of H600*, a mix of Mk II and Mk III generations.

I owned an ArmyTek Wizard Pro v3 for a short time but decided to sell it. The ZebraLight UI and compact size makes it the best headlamp I have owned. I use a Wizard Pro pocket clip on my H600w MkII, however.

Stefano · 2021-09-21T03:09:29.000Z

Hello goshdogit
Thank you for your comments.
Unfortunately in recent years I have been less and less active both on the forums and on Youtube.
I also used the latest Zebralights little.
I admit that I am using Armytek more but why do I keep my Zebralights as a sacred object
For everyday dirty work I have many Armyteks bought on special offer.
I recently started thinking about a new light, unfortunately Zebralight told me that for at least the next 6 months there are no new models planned.
Undecided whether to wait or buy a H600Fd or a H600c/d
After the positive experience with Armytek Wizard Pro warm I was thinking of buying the new C2 V4 but the anticipated stepdown at 58C° discourages me.
Perhaps better to wait and see if Armytek or Zebralight for 2022 comes up with some new models.
Our lights get old very quickly, yesterday I found my old Zebralight H600 cool withe
(year 2012/2013 - 750 lumens x 3 minutes! then it dropped to 420 lm)
Time runs and technology too.

BurningPlayd0h · 2021-09-22T16:20:13.000Z

Wizard V3 w/XHP 50 is visibly brighter than both my H600c (clear lens version, but with slightly sanded/frosted lens cover I applied so beam is closer to that of Wizards) and Wizard w/Nichia 144A. It’s almost certainly down to the ~70 vs 90+ CRI of them respectively. The difference in max output is pretty inconsequential for my use and I vastly prefer the H600 and AT w/Nichia for their color quality. H600c definitely appears warmer than 4000K compared to other lights I have with emitters at that temp, but some of them (LH351D and SST-20) have been measured at ~4200K in many bins by those with proper equipment.

Stefano · 2021-09-22T20:30:05.000Z

Yesterday I did a lot of tests at home with luxmeter, stopwatch and thermometer. I took the three Zebralights bought in 2019 and hardly ever used out of the box (H600Fc - H604c - H604d)
Impressed by my Wizard V3 warm XHP50.2, it holds really high power for a long time before dropping.
Zebralight drops in power much earlier although it must be said that it does not reach the high temperatures of the Wizard.
I also discovered that my H604c is faulty, after 25/30 seconds it has a very rapid drop in power (also visible with an eye) while the H604d bought a couple of months later drops very slowly only after 1 minute.
Thanks for the info on the H600c, I was tempted to buy it but I really think I will stay put.
I have maybe 25 Zebralight and the only problems happened to me only with the MKIV series, after the parasite discharge of the H600Fc (it can happen) here is a problem with the thermal sensor of the H604c.
Strangely, the customer service is unresponsive, they are usually very quick.
I don’t know if after two and a half years from the purchase I can ask for an intervention on this headlamp.