I think the biggest issue is that they’ve been encouraged to use a firmware (anduril) they haven’t designed themselves, so the level of testing and knowledge of how it’s meant to behave is not the same.
Has there been a design flaw with models where they’ve used there own UI?
I like this light a lot. It has a lot of nice features. Compact, attractive design/look, multicolored aux leds that also double as a battery status indicator, rather high output, high CRI if you want it and USB charging. For what little i’ve used it, it worked well, but i haven’t pushed it much.
Sorry to ask but when or how does “the premature stepdown problem” arise?
I like to play devils advocate just to help people see both sides of a situation. Nothing personal.
It not when using Turbo or a low output, it’s when your using a med-high output where all the 7135 chips are going full blast. Like around the max ramp level (assuming the stock max ramp has not been changed).
The new mateminco MT07 comes with a brass heat sink,I contacted them on aliexpress. They provided an image, unfortunately i don’t know how to add an image to this post(clicked the image icon but doesn’t work, using an android phone)
You need to upload it to a hosting website and then copy and paste that link into this thread. More info here.
Does it look the same as the one Lexel posted?
I just picked one up two weeks ago from Banggood. Got it the other day. Still the version without the brass heat spreader. Hope they sell it as an extra part one day.
//Does it look the same as the one Lexel posted?//
Yes its the same 
Are all of these lights supposed to come with AUX LEDs in the lens? I just received mine from Banggood and I think they may be dead. I do see the four pots under the lens but turning them in either direction does nothing. A few of them even spin indefinitely.
Did you turn them on in the software?
With the light off, do 7 fast clicks. ( I think that is the correct procedure. Someone correct me if I’m wrong)
Yes they have multi colored aux leds under the optic. As said, 7 clicks from off will set them low, high or off. They should be active by default though. You should not have to touch the small pots unless you want to increase or decrease some color brightness. This is fine tuning only.
Yes, that is the correct procedure. I clicked 7 times for multiple cycles and the only thing that changed was the light in the switch.
It’s possible that one of the three small wires going to the auxiliary LEDs may have came loose during shipping. If you have a digital multimeter you can verify that there is voltage across the small red wire and small black wire. That should be battery voltage. If you’re not getting a reading then one of those two may be disconnected. If you get battery voltage then there’s a small chance the blue wire is disconnected. You could probably pull on it with tweezers very lightly to see if it feels completely loose or if it’s connected.
Anything beyond a loose wire my indicate that there’s something defective with your auxiliary LED board.
I’ll have to check if my multimeter still works. If it does happen to be a loose wire would soldering be the next course of action?
Yeah. Assuming you can solder. If a wire needs to be reattached to the driver, you’ll have to unsolder all 5 wires on the mcpcb to get the driver out. Fix the wire on the driver, then reattach all 5 wires on top. If your not good at soldering or the problem is not a lose wire you would contact Banggood or who you bought it from and complain the aux leds are broken.
Never soldered a thing in my life sadly. Can’t seem to find my multimeter but I’ve contacted Banggood and awaiting their reply. Thank you for all your help
I am very interested in buying a copper or aluminum heat sink. I would like to but 2 but I’ll take one if that is all that can be had. Only problem is it seems no one is making them anymore. So if anyone would be willing and able to make me one or two I will make it worth your while. As I understand that with the heat sink it’s like a whole new light. Keeps it’s high output for far longer. So please if you can help or know anyone that can help me please message me. I hope to hear from somebody soon. I love my MF01 but it’s so annoying how it keeps stepping down.
The only way I know of stopping it from stepping down without the heatsink is turn on the light put it on high not turbo and let it sit for about a minute and a half. Once the light is warmed up it will stop stepping down at random within only seconds. But to me that is not something I should have to do in order to get proper function.
Checking back again today, to see if anyone is going to be able to help me. I never thought it would be so hard to find someone to make me the heatsink especially since I will be paying well. If anyone can help or if anyone can find a way to get me the OEM heat sink that my light never came with, that would be great. I'm super weird about this kind of thing and it makes me want to throw the light out. I wish there was an easy fix that I could do myself but it seems there is none and sadly I do not own a CNC machine.
Thank you!
Info needed-
is there a optic available to make this light a flooder (more flooding)?
Not really a fan of the stock optic’s beam profile and I could use a small flood light in my arsenal.
Thanks all.
A question please:
Hi CRI 95+ is promised only for the 4000k version, right? 5000k / 6500k versions output the same CRI ~70?
Did anyone measure lumen output for 4000k version and can share some numbers?