Hmmm, it’s always risky denting a battery. It might have been better to take some diagonal cutters and trim one of the springs a bit shorter.
If you have the S43, then you have single springs on both ends. When the springs are fully compressed you get “coil bind” and it becomes solid. Clipping one or two coils and bending the end so it doesn’t scratch should give you an extra millimeter or two.
I’m surprised your running into this problem with unprotected flat tops. I guess some brands 18350 are noticable longer than others.
I really think the cells would have been fine if I had a clean battery tube to begin with. The demension specs on my cells are about the same as any other unprotected cell that I checked. I probably just shortened the tube when I filed that anodizing away.
I am glad to hear that denting a cell’s cathode won’t harm it.
I appreciate all of your help. How does a long cell making the spring solid make the light not work right? Isn’t the cellstill making contact? (Forgive the newbie question.)
BTW,the S43S does not have a spring on the head end. It has a solid contact. Apparently, this was a change from the S41 and S42 design in order lessen resistance and improve current flow. Perhaps, a relatively long battery puts too much pressure on the pcb board, particularly when the tail spring is compressed solid.
As an aside, I am not sure if clipping the tail cap spring would have been a good idea for this light. I do also have a 18650 tube with which I might need to use that same tailcap, in which case it might not work right with that shorter spring.
With a battery tube that has anodized threads, like this one, the head and the tail have to be screwed down all the way.
If the spring coil binds because the battery is too long, or maybe there is solder preventing the spring from compressing normally, then you can’t fully screw the head and tail on.
If you want to think of electricity flowing from negative to positive, the negative side of the battery flows electrons to the spring, to the pcb in the tail cap, to the battery tube end, to the other end of the battery tube and touches the outer ring of the driver.
If you want to think of electricity flowing from positive to negative, after the electrons go through the led and driver they go to the driver outer ring and then to the battery negative end the same way I described above, just in reverse.
If none of the threads were anodized you would not have any issues with battery length, but then you wouldn’t be able to easily lock out the light.
Do you have the S43S? I thought you had the S43 since this thread is about that model.
The S43 had single springs like the S41 and S42, but they changed it for the copper head version.
If I had your issue with the S43S, I might just remove the smaller inner spring. This will let the bigger, outer spring compress a bit more, but maybe it won’t pull as many amps. I wouldn’t worry too much about that, though. This requires a bit more work and a soldering iron.
There IS discussion in this thread earlier about both the S43 and S43S, even though it began with the S43. I didnt realize they were different except for the copper in the S43S.
Anyway, my light now works great with the dented cell and the fixed, shorter than normal, 18350 tube. In fact, I like this light so much, I just ordered a second one with the same Nichia 219C emitters. You can’t beat the price of $29 Bangood has going now on the S43S.
Why a second you might ask? By having two lights, I can have two ready to go, one with the short tube for EDC, easier to carry use, and the other, with a 18650 tube for when more extended capacity is necessary. I will replace the 18350 tube I just fixed and accidentally shorted with the tube that comes with new light. Hopefully, the new tube will not have issues and allow me to use undented 18350 cells. We will see.
Why do my undented cells only work correctly when I find the sweet spot for tightening. Only if I tighten fully the light misbehaves. If I back off from fully tight, I can get it sometimes to work correctly.
Therefore, I am not following you when you say that the head and tail cap can’t be tighted down all the way. That might be true if the cell was way too long. But my cell can’t be way too long if just a small dent fixes things. Furthermore, as I just said, because it will work sometimes with an undented cell when head and tail are NOT tight.
So could my undented cell, sandwiched between the solid head contact and fully compressed spring in the tail, be placing undue pressure on the boards controlling the light when head and tail are fully tight? Otherwise, how would you explain that loosening the head or tail might get it to work correctly?
Are you asking how to go into the menu and switch to mode sets?
First you have to hold down the button for 8 seconds. I recommend you ramp down when doing this.
You will see 2 fast and one slow blink. Release the button when when it first blinks. Then do 1 click after you see the 2 fast 1 slow. This means you’ll be clicking one time about a second after you release the button.
Then you can let it cycle through the rest of the menu. Once it stops blinking it is ready to use.
I don’t use the Turbo Timer, I set it using the temperature.