Oh, you can try http://www.kaidomain.com/
study study.but not succesfull…how to got simply to the menu and get modes instead ramping please?
what do you recommend? turbo timer or turbo til death…?
Are you asking how to go into the menu and switch to mode sets?
First you have to hold down the button for 8 seconds. I recommend you ramp down when doing this.
You will see 2 fast and one slow blink. Release the button when when it first blinks. Then do 1 click after you see the 2 fast 1 slow. This means you’ll be clicking one time about a second after you release the button.
Then you can let it cycle through the rest of the menu. Once it stops blinking it is ready to use.
I don’t use the Turbo Timer, I set it using the temperature.
So I guess a S44 will be revealed soon. What features would people like in the S44 ?
Personally I would like:
- Better optics
- Better driver efficiency
- Better charging efficiency
- Better thermal throttling
- Flat bezel (not the crenulated type)
- Get rid of spike (helps to make it a little bit shorter)
I guess that aux LEDs are ‘all the rage’ lately so maybe it will feature these. Personally I don’t need them, they are groovy but not important.
I think it will be hard to beat Emisar D4v2
Something to use the spikey tail caps for:
Interesting. Did you craft your own or is this a screw-in magnetic stud you can buy somewhere?
I used 2 N50 8mmX3mm Neodymium Magnets which fit nicely in the hole for the spike (which I will never use anyway) and just glued them in. works well enough to be useful to me.
Could you supply us with a source for these magnets?
I like your idea.
I have had these for a while and I am not sure where these came from. I have used several sizes for different projects around the house. I did a quick search and found these.
Really? I’ve heard nothing.
Here are my thoughts.
Optics that are not blocked and rob you of lumens would be a nice upgrade.
I don’t care about driver efficiency.
What is wrong with charger efficiency? You want a higher charge rate?
Thermal throttling seems fine once adjusted. You can’t expect the factory to adjust each light by hand.
I don’t care about bezel shape.
Loosing the spike is a good idea. Maybe mount a removable magnet inside tail cap like a lot of other lights.
I don’t care about aux leds.
The driver efficiency is actually just as good as the D4 that people compare it to, they use the same design and components. The efficiency loss is the optics not the driver.
The charge rate can be adjusted with a resistor change, I had it setup to charge at 1A at first but since it was designed for 18350 cells it was worried that might be too fast for the small cells so it was dropped down to 500ma last min.
Thermal performance is about as good as you can expect for such a small light honestly. If the exact step down temp is the issue, the default could be raised in firmware I suppose but otherwise it is a simple matter of calibrating your light to your own personal preferences.
I did not say I heard anything either, just that I guess. They have done a new one annually.
According to maukka’s review 25% of energy is wasted.
With each year that goes by we expect better from our products, even ones which are ‘fine’.
I do not expect the factory to adjust each light by hand, however surely there are areas for improvement. Look at Emisar D4 for an example of this in practice. Many thought the thermal throttling was ‘fine’ and yet it improved several times. I am thankful Hank and TK did not say v1.0 was fine and call it a day.
Thanks. I don’t have my S43 with me right now, so I can’t measure it. Is the 8mm x 3mm where the magnet fits in that “dish” area around the screw hole and the 3mm height is flush to the rest of the tail cap? Also, what kind of glue did you use? I expect Super Glue wouldn’t be a good choice due to lateral vulnerability.
For a minute there I thought he drove the spike Into the filing cabinet
Superglue works fine. I have done 3 with superglue and one with epoxy - all have been in use for 8 months or more without issue.
2 - 8mmX3mm
4 - 8mmX2mm
Not as much volume for the adhesive this way
which ever you use just load up magnets and adhesive - cover with a bit of wax paper and set some kind of ferrous metal on top to get the magnets to sit flush with the top of the cap
Thanks for information
Are these pictures of a S44 prototype? If so they aren’t accessible to me. I never understood the complaints about the smooth battery tube, especially when people don’t complain about the same issue with the FW3A/C. As far as the Tailcap goes, I think the spike there is rather silly, especially with the S43S that comes with the 18350 tube. That small tube,with the crenulated bezel makes this light look like a little tactical wannabe. Does anyone really use the spike on this light? It’s then too sharp to keep in a pocket.
No, it’s post 43 of this thread from about 10 months ago.
It shows the battery tube for the Mateminco version of the S43 called the S03.
Has anyone managed to flash their S43 with Andúril yet?
This is how my S43S from BG came:
There’s a blob of solder joining one pad to the outer ring of the driver board. And the other pad does not have any solder at all.
Here is how it is supposed to look:
Can anybody explain what I am seeing? Bad workmanship? A returned light which had to be repaired?
It seems to work okay…