Oh my, what is this mess? I’ve seen some other Led automotive headlights that were very bright but suffered from flickering and led’s dying early due to poor heat dissipation. This 4 x XM-L2 design looks kind of interesting. Thoughts anyone?
Each bulb in this one has 2 x MT-G2
My friend has a similar set to the 2nd link but not MTG2 on his FJ Cruiser. I keep telling him that it looks horrible. Unless you're 3 feet tall, you shouldn't be blinded when you stand 10ft in front of the car.
They are interesting. But I dislike the fans. I noticed it said in the text for the MT-G2 that the unit will work for a week even if the fan is broken so you have time to repair the fan... Ok. But how will I know the fan has died? Is there some alarm or something? No. So I´ll have to pop the hood every time I have to drive somewhere. Not going to happen. But if these are really good it could spell the coming of really nice tint headlights! :-)
Yeah, I don’t like the fan idea. I do like this big heat sink on the first one. I really doubt that there is a good copper thermal path to the heat sink. I doubt the 4 XML2’s will survive long.
But just thinking about it makes me want one. It goes something like this in my nuggin:
55W traditional car bulb makes what? 1000 lumens?
For a XML that would mean a drive current of about 3 point something. So this could be driven to spec. And from what I have seen these are really quite forgiving when driven within spec...
4 XML2 per bulb. Probably about 500-600 lumen per led. I’m very tempted. The company www.txtlighting.com has admitted that the older design with Cree CXA led did not do well with the heat. So now they design their lights with XML2 and MTG2.
If the body of the lamp has a copper rod or something similar inside to move the heat toward the bolt-in fan&heatsink, it would be interesting to see if ditching the fan and stock heatsink and bolting instead in a bigger black finned alu heatsinks (those commonly used in electronics) could help enough cooling without the need for a faulty-prone fan...
Two MT-G2 for headlight would make quite a lot of light compared to common auto bulbs, and thanks to MT-G2 warm tint, those should be quite better tint and color rendering compared to all those cheapo purplish light conversion around.
I would hope you can have them on for hours on a summer day, which hits 40+ C ambient in my city. That really doesn’t sound like a good scenario for these bulbs. I’d like to see what stress-testing they’ve done.
how about if you add/wire a 12V fan to the base of these lights? 
One MUST re-aim his or her headlights when installing anything other than stock with increased lumens. Unless you like getting flashed constantly (ask me how I know), turn them down via the adjustment on the headlights themselves or close to it. I have 100W HIDs neutral white and have had zero issues. I have been using HIDs for ~6 years having initially bought them on aliexpress many moons ago.
Looking at that first one, to me, it's fairly simple to figure out how much heat 4 XM-L2 leds put out constantly on high. Hell, we can't even do it in flashlights, let alone a heat sink the size of a sipik head. Air flow? I don't know about anyone else, but there's hardly any air flow around the back side of my headlight bulbs. They are buried under tons of plastic and I can't even see them unless I take something off. I sure wouldn't want to bother trying them out. I can imagine these running in TX, on a hot summer night and my housings melting, resulting in a few hundred dollars worth of repairs...
Are they DOT legal yet? I don't even think HID retrofits are DOT legal are they?
This model already has a cooling fan. Most of the cooling fans work ok in the rain but i’m not sure if i trust this fan. Maybe find a reliable japanese fan to replace it with?
I don’t think they could get hot enough to do any damage to the light housing or wiring. I would be more concerned if they did their homework on the heat sinking of the XML2 led’s. They would die quick if the heat doesn’t travel to the heatsink effeciently.
This company claims to have designed something special. I already have those Hella upgrade H4 housings on my Jeep wrangler. I’m tempted again to try the led’s. Do those look like MTG2 x 2?
Funny. These look rather similar to the youtube video led lights.
Have any of you seen this:
http://www.siriusled.net/products/all-in-one-led-headlight-h4
There is a member on tacomaworld that sells these. Gets really good reviews. I have them in my truck.
COB leds with a dome on?
Sure those are not MT-G2 anyway.
I read on a couple places max current on hi-beam is 2,5A only, so heat should not be extreme as well... Maybe the heatsink will work...
About legality issues, well, I cannot say for USA, but in Europe those have no approval for sure yet.
Even HID retrofits have many legal issues here, some of them are claimed to be legal if used only in vehicles that have self-levelling headlights and washing system, but most of them are simply not approved at all for road use, they are sold with one of those stickers on the box stating "for display or closed course racing only, not for highway service"
To date, I've not heard of any approved led retrofit kit.
There are a few complete assemblies led headlights which are compliant, but very expensive too.
I hate those modern overkill blue blinding car lights…
I think stock BMWs have HID or DE or whatever.
Probably legal, but very annoying…
Dangerous too, as you can get blinded…
The suckers forget that with better efficiency you need LESS power, NOT MORE !
Adjustment is not enough. Forget HID, forget LED, people have tried that trick with Xenon filament 90/130 globes (ie: H4’s) and variations thereof in a light designed with the focal length of the Xenon globe fitted, for decades. The low beam is too bright. It doesnt matter if you point them as far down at the road as possible. Even cars that are designed to run HID or LED, when cresting a hill, blind you. Ask me how I know. A standard set of 55/60 will cause problems for oncoming traffic cresting a hill. Its like kneeling down in front of the car, you are right in its sweet spot, even off to one side.
At least one reason you dont get flashed anymore is because people are more accustomed to bright lights on cars, and the consequences of flashing them mistaking bright low beams for high beam. They know when they flash them, theres a chance the light coming back will get brighter if they got it wrong. Ask me how I know. Its only vehicles that really stand out as on high beam that I flash now. When Ive passed those vehicles I did not flash, clearly the lights are retrofit HID etc, but not high beam. Rarely is it a car with high beam running. They attracted my attention though so clearly they arent OK. And these are not the ones that are clearly identifiable as HID and scattering light all over the place from 200 metres away, roadside aimed for best punch down the road.
I would imagine not.
I’m glad that someone in this thread has some sense.
People who improperly modify their headlights just increase the amount of light directly in front of the vehicle/flood, and glare to other drivers (lost light to the trees and sky). This close illumination (within 30 feet of vehicle) kills your night vision but making your pupils adjust/constrict to the nearby light. Your eyes adjust improperly and cannot see further down the road. Also, adjusting the headlights down hurts throw and simply adds more to the flood illumination. Unless doing a retrofit using HID/LED headlight parts that came on a production vehicle, the only way to actually improve illumination is to create custom optics. Most people do not have the knowledge or means to do so. Since most of us are not optical engineers, there will be quite a bit of loss in custom optics, and a person would probably need at least twice the wattage into LED’s to match the effective output of 35W HID setups.
Of course, with any increase in output, one’s eyes adjust so you don’t gain as much as numbers may make one believe.