Thank you guys for the pictures and the hints for removing the driver! :-) I'll hope for the best and will try to flash them and if not, Reichelt.de should deliver new Attiny25 to my doorstep in a few days...
Hi all,
I may have found yet another solution that does not include soldering: high-voltage programming.
I've soldered the circuit at http://www.rickety.us/2010/03/arduino-avr-high-voltage-serial-programmer/ on a stripboard and tried with an Attiny13. The fuses where changed back the way I told the Arduino to. :-)
What the circuit does is provide an interface for an Arduino which flashes the fuses in the Attiny13 while pulling RST up to 12V at specific times (aka high voltage programming). In the comment section of the website, there is also the code to erase any lockbits. That should get the Attiny25 on the driver going. :-) Only downside: the chip will be erased (at least when erasing the lockbits) -- nothing to worry about because we do have the FW we want to flash.
I hope this helps.
Best regards
Thanks for the info. I knew the more expensive Atmel programming devices have this 12 V option to reset fuses, but never tried it. I’m curious if it also works in-circuit with the BLF X6 (there is a capacitor at Pin 2/clock). Should require a changed programming clip connection (clock pin is not required with USBASP). I have Arduinos but I’m not sure if it’s worth the effort compared to replacing the Attiny with a new one for the few new drivers I received.
The USBASP is not used during resetting the fuse: The Arduino does nothing but erasing and (re)writing the fuses -- no flashing. The clip I have uses all eight connections and is separate from my programmer (a avrisp2 clone).
If you do have a spare Attiny lying around it might not be worth the effort. But since I don't have any and had the Arduino, I thought I'd give it a try. Guess I'll have to see if it really works in-place with the driver, but I sure hope so.
Best regards
Just wanted to let you guys know how it went: resetting the fuses and flashing the FW worked. However, not without removing C1 first.
As Flashy Mike had already assumed, the 12V-programming does NOT work with the C1 in place. I tried a few times with a brand new board and the Arduino kept on telling that the fuses are "FF" -- an indicator that it does not work (it does not mean that the fuses actually are set to "FF" though...). Just remove the capacitor (don't lose it! ;-) use the Arduino so reset the fuses, solder C1 again and you're good to go. Flashing worked instantly and the FW I flashed worked on first try, too. Yay.
Something does really annoy me, though:. The C1 capacitor seems to be extremely prone to temperature drift. A medium click with a cold lamp needs a press of roughly 3s. When the light is hot to the touch (but doesn't burn your skin obviously), a medium press needs to be about 0.3s long -- that is one tenth of the initial time!
Most probably I'll try a higher quality capacitor. What do you guys think about this one https://www.reichelt.de/Vielschicht-SMD-G0805-High-Cap/X7R-G0805-1-0-25/3/index.html?ACTION=3&GROUPID=4339&ARTICLE=89730 (I hope that posting this link is OK, otherwise please let me know so I can remove it...)?!
Best regards
I just reset the fuses on another driver and remembered to write down the fuses...
Low: D2
High: 5E
Which shows why programming cannot work: This sets RSTDISBL and thus, the Attiny cannot be reset externally which is needed for programming though.
A quick question .
I want to ask , how you can indicate the problem ? It shows a programming error or the driver doesn’t opperate in the right way ?
AVRDUDE reports “target doesn’t answer”.
thanks .
Because the latest A6 driver i have from banggood , it isn’t showing any error in Avrdude but it operates as a single mode driver… Flashed it a lot of times but nothing . I’ll probably change the attiny .
Some of my own fet/fet+1 drivers i flashed yesterday they work ok.
OTC might be wrong value, not properly connected, shortcut or damaged.
If it starts in highest mode, LED- might be shortcut to BATT- or casing.
FYI:
I built a hig voltage serial resetter today which is able to reset bricked Attinys (for another purpose: New Convoy 7135x8 driver - mcu not programmable!) and was able to reset the mcu in my newer BLF X6 drivers. The resetter reported factory fuse settings of low=0xD2 and high=0x5E in all drivers which means Reset-Pin has been disabled. And without this pin programming with USBASP doesn’t work.
Sounds like an interesting gadget you have built FM. Nice work on your detective work on these drivers with issues as well. :+1:
Yeah, was not difficult at all. Used this instructions:
http://www.rickety.us/2010/03/arduino-avr-high-voltage-serial-programmer/
Built with cheap Arduino Nano on breadboard.
Hello dear friend,
We did not change manufacturer, our suppliers are always the same. And we already communicateed with them, they said, because some players feedbacked when they download the program there is a problem, so their engineer set fuse no program in order to protect the product same and safety. But as received these feedback from the players, their next batch will plan to reopen this feature for everyone DIY, thank you.
Best Regards,
Swi
Did I understood this correctly, someone (3rd party) tried to copy firmware? :person_facepalming:
But, firmware is freely available!!!

Did I understood this correctly, someone (3rd party) tried to copy firmware? :person_facepalming:
But, firmware is freely available!!!
I don’t think so. Where did you read this?
IDK, reading what Swi wrote it kinda looked like that!
“engineer change the fuses to protect the product” ???
As I understand Banggoods post, the manufacturer locked re-programming the mcu in order to avoid complains of customers who re-programmed the mcu with faulty firmware. Actually the manufacturer didn’t lock programming (SPI) but disabled the reset pin - which has the same effect though.
Any reports about A6 having similar issue?
I need some new drivers.
Can anybody confirm if the X6 drivers offered by Banggood currently are programmable again?