Better batteries are always better?

Hi, After a couple of months of lurking this is my 1st real post.

I’ve been experimenting the last couple of days with replacing some of my Wurkkos/Sofirn batteries with “better” ones with more Amps. I don’t have the tools to back up my findings, but I see (visually) a slightly improvement in lumen output and feel that the flashlights run a bit hotter.

Tried this with the SC33 (Molicel P42A), TS11 (Sony Murata VTC6) and FC12 (Samsung 30Q).

Are these finding correct, and is a “better” battery always better if this means the flashlight will step-down more quicker?

Thanks in advance.

If the flashlight can make use of more current and the new, better battery is able to deliver more current this will lead to higher brightness and more heat.

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I hope you enjoy your stay, MariusPatricius!

There is no need for a really highdrain battery if the light doesnt draw that much amps, like for example if it draws 7 amps on turbo u dont really need a battery that can do 20amps since the light will never be able draw that much.

Downside is more lumens more heat so less turbo no matter batteries.

depends how we define “better”…

if better means higher discharge rate, that gives briefly more output on maximum, while also generating more heat, some people who are interested in using Turbo might call that better…

I dont like to use unsustainable outputs, so I actually disable Turbo, so, I have no use for higher discharge rate batteries

or
If better means higher capacity, that gives longer runtime at sustainable outputs, and reduces how often I need to recharge, then for me yes, higher capacity is better.

or
if better means built in USB charging and overdischarge protection, that means I dont need to bring a charger when I travel (as long as I bring a USB cable and power supply instead), then yes, USB is better when traveling, and also when gifting someone a light. Also if I use a light that does not have built in LVP in the driver, then also yes, a protected battery is better.

or
if better means lowest price, that could also matter to someone.

here are examples of batteries with those various features
Imgur

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Yes, just as I thought. And to make it more complicated, the highest advertised lumens are not always better if this means you can run the flashlight shorter in the highest mode(s).

I opened up a whole new rabbit hole with this new hobby :wink:

welcome to the fray, I hope you enjoy hopping around the warren… lol

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on paper is sure looks like it is the case, but in reality, 20amp cell will sag less than 8A cell under high load, so technically you do not need 20A cell in a 7A light, but you will see improvements with 20A cell.

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I use high drain batteries in performance lights like Nightwatch. For simple lights like basic Wurrkos, Convoy, etc I use standard 10 amp.

Better batteries: Sanyo/Panasonic, Sony/Murata, LG and Samsung will always be better by lasting longer and delivering their current claims over time.

Chris

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I dont see how tho if the light will never draw noway near that many amps.

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Less voltage drop at any amps

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Something else that might get thrown in there is longevity. For NiMh Eneloop is the standard.
For lithium…? That part of the equation does not get discussed. It much harder to quantify and there are many variables affecting it.
There is also ongoing research and development of the chemistry so older ‘types’ simply disappear.
I also wonder about longevity of modest capacity (say 2600mAh) vs max capacity (3500mAh) of the same brand, with hopefully the same quality construction.
For Eneloops the ‘standard’ capacity outlives the ‘high’ capacity. Same with lithium?

FWIW, I’ve had some lithium stand up quite well, and others be pretty lackluster over time.

True. But not sure you could actually see that in use on a lower amp draw light.

How low? if under 500ma probably not, never tested at that current, but 2-3 amps you will definitely see it, saw it many times when i build lights, especially with linear drivers,

IIRC, the higher self-discharge is because the pro have a thinner insulator for higher drain. With li-ion, there are more construction and design differences between different manufacturers and cell models, so it’s not as directly comparable as two kinds of batteries by the same company that all come from a single factory.

It’s like using 93 octane in a daily driver. Unless you’re also taking the car to the track on weekends, it’ll just be more expensive, and it’s not going to make any difference.

You’d need twice the lemons to make it appear 30% brighter visually, so even if you could measure, say, 1000lm vs 1100lm for a 100lm gain, you could A/B switch them and probably still not be able to tell any visual brightness.

If a light comes with a cell from a reputable mfr, I just use that and be done with it. I got a collection of 30Qs and VTCwhatevers (5s, 5As, 6es, whatever) and they’re all great, but I reserve them for high-strung lights which suck down a LOT of current, only.

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