Bicyclists - what did I buy?

just post it on craigslist for $2000 and see what happens

25 emails the first day means too low

re list for 2500

conversely no emails in a week means price is too high to sell fast
go down if you need to sell
otherwise whatever!

That’s an excellent bicycle. Here’s some info—-Klein Bikes - Gary Klein's Aluminium Framed Bicycle
Pricing is a ?.

Got it home just now.
I lucked out, the frame has Large on a sticker.
My fat ass does take up about 80% of the rear shock travel.

The tires look nearly new. The tubes seems to be holding air after I pumped them up.

The rear derailleur seems to be threaded incorrectly. The chain rubs on section between the two wheels. Like it is on the wrong side.
I used to have a chain tool someplace. Haven’t seen it for 25 years.

Looks like I’ve got: shimano deore front – x7 rear, bontranger cranks, rolf satellite rims, fox rear shock, kenda klaw xt rubber, wtb seat. Shimano clincher breaks.

Feeling a little better about it now that it looks like it will fit me (perhaps). And nothing seems bent or bound up.
Need to get me a skid lid to keep my old man brains on the inside.

And holy crap is this geared low. Where was this kind of thing when I was a kid living halfway down the steepest hill in the whole neighborhood?
Here it’s flat, I’ll never get to that smallest crank wheel.

If I can get my training wheels off after all these years, I’ll enjoy it.
My bud in Alpine wants me to come ride with him. Hell, I’ll need a heart lung transplant before I can keep up….

Thanks again for all the help!
All the Best,

see if you can lock the shocks—will be much faster to ride

be careful with that rear derailleur
adjustment mistakes can destroy the whole frame (really)


I’m getting my old Schwinn Traveller back into shape… so I can get back into shape.

Def needs new rubber inside and out. Went over the chain and gears already, they look pretty good despite hints of rust on the chain (even if I replace it, bfd). Got new cables for brakes to use for poking through my car’s sunroof’s drain-tubes, so plenty extra in both long/short lengths.

Mine came with standard cheese-grater pedals, work great on sneakers, ’though I wouldn’t want to bike barefooty on ’em.

If you got dress-shoes you might be considering, beware that cheese-graters will chew up the nice untouched surface of the sole that doesn’t come in contact with the ground. But any flats should be fine.

Sneaks for me. Gave up on dress shoes when I made the move form Geophysicist to Independent (unemployed) to computer wiz.
Used to ride a bike to work when the weather was nice. Great thing about smaller cities.
Now we have major traffic. I means your life to ride a bike on any of the bigger streets. Bike lanes be dammed.

Hey just realized this is the perfect excuse to get new light(s).
Got to get my bike light Jones on! Though I’ll most likely never ride at night.
Need something with an annoying bike flasher mode…
All the Best,

When I realised I could take a coupla buses to work vs driving in, I used to joke “15min by car, 1:15 by buses”, but that gap closed a lot.

Extra traffic all times of day or night (eg, coming home after midnight in stop’n’go traffic?!?) made the trips by car closer to a half-hour or more.

And with the bustime app (best f’n money the MTA ever spent on anything), I could shave off any/all waiting time for the first bus and practically could walk right up to the bus as it’d be pulling into the stop, and bring travel time to about just under an hour if I got lucky.

So that gap closed, by a lot.

I was toying with the idea of taking a bike to work, but the sheer length of the trip and getting sweaty, and potentially getting smeared all over the asphalt by an asshat, all but nixed that idea. An e-bike, maybe, but there was still one stretch where it’s highway or nothing, the nearest way across the GCP/VWP would be a Jewel Ave crossing a few more miles out of my way.

And that’s the main problem, the way these douchebags drive. Bad enough they’ll cream bikers (motor and pedal), but they’re almost exclusively hit’n’runs. Hell, I got nicked by a huge SUV’s mirror standing on the sidewalk when he came too close and clipped me, that I spun around, had my arm ripped out of my duster’s pocket (ripping said pocket), and ended up on my back staring up at the sky wondering wtf ever happened. He stopped, paused, then took off.

Nope, I’ll stick to “recreational” biking where I can control the time and place and route.

(Oh, a witness got a plate# but was one character off, white sedan, and at my behest, trying a variation like ‘Q’ for ‘O’ turned up a dark SUV pretty much matching what nailed me. Cops said unless I or the witness would be positive, there was nothing they could do. And the SUV was regged to a house on east Lawn Guyland. Pretty coincidental for a statewade search!)

You might find this interesting—-klein race bike restore

I don’t think you could ride the bike if the chain was installed incorrectly. Here is a picture of a mountain bike with the chain. It comes back from the bottom of the chainring in the front. It goes behind the lower jockey wheel, in front of the upper jockey wheel, and then goes behind the cassette or freewheel. If you use the smallest (inner) chainring in front, and the smallest gear in back (outer) the chain might rub on the frame in front of the rear derailleur but you should not use that combination of gears anyway. It is called cross chaining and you should avoid using either inner/outer gear combination. As to the gear range. If you are used to a road bike, the gearing on it will be a lot higher than on a mountain bike because you do not need low gears to get over obstacles and climb more difficult terrain compared to riding on a street. If you change the tires, look for “city or slick” tires for riding on the road. Much quieter and more comfortable than the knobby tires that come stock on a mountain bike. Look for something called a “platform pedal” for riding with ordinary shoes.

i also did not understand what you meant about the chain

apparently you are riding the bike so i can;t really imagine what is wrong

explain or send pictures

I’m not riding it yet. Just put some air in the tires and sorta coasted it across the driveways. With a gentle movement of the cranks.

The chain is definitely threaded wrong. It still moves through the derailleur arm. But it is on the wrong side of the ??? Bar? / piece of metal that sits between the two wheels on the derailleur arm.

It rubs on this piece. But not any wear there I can tell. Know more after I get the chain off.
It can be ridden like this but not by me.

Saw a YouTube vid on chain replacement that showed the correct path. That agreed with what I surmised to be the correct way to do it.

I’ll post a pic after I get done with my infusions for the month.

Lots of dried grease. Need to find some cheap wrenches and get the wheel bearings apart and goop ’me up.
Thanks again,
All the Best,

it should not be necessary to ’break the chain to get it back in the right place.

again a picture would help

‘greasing the wheels’ is a huge job, and you have to get it adjusted right afterwards

you need cone wrenches, cassette remover, at least

i wouldn;t do that til you decide to keep or not

consider a bike shop for that

A pic will show it…
Imagine the S shape made by the chain… Stick a pin on arms between the wheels. The chain can go on one side of the pin.
The pin is slightly offset. With the chain on the correct side it moves freely.
The other way it just rubs on the pin.
The pin in this case is a tap of metal that is bent in from the derailleur arms.
When I post the pic it will become obvious.
No other way to get it right break the chain or dissemble the derailleur.

ok still need pic

If someone routed it improper, you should be able to lift the chain from the two derailer gear pulley wheels (jockey and idler) and start over.

Can’t imagine how someone could route the chain to cross the cage plate arm, but it would be possible. Also the pulley wheels can be loosened and removed if for some reason it is really fubar. There is usually a guard to keep the chain from jumping off held by the same bolts that connect the cage plate.

No need to break the chain unless you just got the urge.

Got finished with the infusions.

Sometimes ya’ get the good nurse – Sometimes ya’ don’t.

So here are some pics of my rear derailleur…
This is how mine is threaded. Taken from the opposite side from the cassette so you can see the path better.
The chain is surrounded on four sides by the derailleur wheel, the two arms that make up the derailleur, and the tab that is a bent hunk of metal that is part of the derailleur arms.

There is no way that I can see to get the chain on the other side of the tab without breaking the chain or dissembling the derailleur.
Breaking the chain is way easier/safer for a duffer like me. Besides it will give me the opportunity to clean that sucker.


Here is a capture from a Park video showing the correct way to thread the derailleur arm.

Thanks for all the info and links!
All the Best,

i still can;t exactly tell what is going on

one thought it, someone took the back wheel off and didn;t get it back on right, with the cogs in the right place

it;s easy to mess that up. it would be pretty hard to install the chain wrong.

Some bikes have a single arm on the shifter. Easy to remove and reposition the chain.
My chain is surrounded on 4 sides. It is not possible to get the chain in the current location without threading it through there in the first place.

Here is another shot from the back side. You can’t see the problem from the front.
The chain is supposed to go above the tab so that it rides on the wheel not the tab.
Easy to do it wrong if not paying attention when installing the chain.

See that tab by the red arrow?
The chain must go on one side or the other.
On one side, the chain rubs on the tab.
On the other side it does not.

The chain goes around the cassette.
Over the first wheel.
Then on my bike - there is a tab in between the two derailleur wheels.
The chain must pass on one side or the other.

Take a look at the pic below. The correct way has the chain passing on the left side of the tab.
The chain does not rub on the tab.

The incorrect way has the chain passing on the right side of the tab.
The chain rubs on the tab.

See this video at 4:53 to see the chain routed and the tab of which I speak.

Not real easy to get a better pic in there.
After I get it corrected I’ll post a new pic.
All the Best,

yes i see it now, that kind of thing would make me question any other work that was done on the bike!

also the chain looks worn, like they rode it that way… scraping and clicking!

breaking the chain - some chains technically require a new link or new pins, to re-join (shimano)

i recommend SRAM chains, they have a magic master link that does not require this

Yeah, I’m a bit spooked by this too. Didn’t notice it till I got it home.
I hope what happened was the chain broke (or?) and the bike got put up. Then new tires got installed (look nearly new to me) and the chain got put on incorrectly.

I’ll know more after I get feeling better (takes a day or two) and get the chain off there.
Thanks for the SRAM suggestion

Just looked. The current chain is marked: PC 951 and it has a magic link so it will be easy to remove.
wfe - are most chains basically the same as far as using them on a bike like mine?
Obviously I don’t need anything fancy.
The SRAM at $22 seems like a good deal to me. I’ll count the links/measure after I get it off the bike.

All the Best,