try it anyway
it looks smallish but it is hard to tell with a mt bike
there is more wiggle room in ‘size’ than a road bike
if you can ride it then do !
also you need to adjust it for your comfort, which may take several rides to dial in
there are web articles on bike fit, lots of them
maybe check the REI site
they usually make sense
Good info here. I might add that that if it doesn’t fit don’t waste money trying to MAKE it fit, (changing stem,handlebars, raising the seat etc) it never works.
you might make it work with just one kludge but not 2 or 3
one of my kleins [the fanciest, the quantum race pro] is slightly too small
but it came with a ‘setback seat post’
now it’s like goldilocks oatmeal
plus all dura ace!
it;s a 2001
worlds most expensive paint, also
i think they called the color ‘plum crazy’
purple metallic fade into midnight blue
You can get a better idea of which of the two years this model was made at Bicyclebluebook where they list components as well as a guide for average price. 2001 https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/value-guide/product/35648/ 2002 https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/value-guide/product/37374/
It was either made in 2001 or 2002 and since there were different rims and different brands of rear shock used for each year that should allow you to decide which. MSRP was either $1,750 for the 2001 or $1,500 for 2002. Lots of people look with a bunch of skepticism at the suggested prices they come up with, especially these days with new bikes being so hard to find. A 20 year old MTB can be a great bike if properly cared for and stored over the years. I own two of them. It’s a good idea to inspect the tires for age related deterioration and replace the brake pads if they are hardened with age. New pads stop a lot better than brittle ones. The fastest way to make this bike way too expensive is to take it to a bike shop. You can find videos on how to maintain bikes yourself with very few specialized tools. Don’t put any money into it if you will resell it, just clean and polish it if needed.
If you are 6’ 3” tall the likelihood of this bike fitting you is not great. Using a really long seatpost is a bad idea to make if fit as the frame geometry will be off. I’m at the other end of the height scale for humans and bought a couple of bikes at police auctions where you could look at them from a distance but not up close. It was a real crap shoot and most times did not work out. The bikes were great for the price but weren’t a good fit for my height.
If you want other peoples opinions on how much it is worth, check out this site
Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals. Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals. - Bike Forums It’s free to join and you can’t post a picture until you have 10 posts but there are pictures at the bicyclebluebook website you can have people look at.
just post it on craigslist for $2000 and see what happens
25 emails the first day means too low
re list for 2500
conversely no emails in a week means price is too high to sell fast
go down if you need to sell
That’s an excellent bicycle. Here’s some info—-Klein Bikes - Gary Klein's Aluminium Framed Bicycle
Pricing is a ?.
Got it home just now.
I lucked out, the frame has Large on a sticker.
My fat ass does take up about 80% of the rear shock travel.
The tires look nearly new. The tubes seems to be holding air after I pumped them up.
The rear derailleur seems to be threaded incorrectly. The chain rubs on section between the two wheels. Like it is on the wrong side.
I used to have a chain tool someplace. Haven’t seen it for 25 years.
Looks like I’ve got: shimano deore front – x7 rear, bontranger cranks, rolf satellite rims, fox rear shock, kenda klaw xt rubber, wtb seat. Shimano clincher breaks.
Feeling a little better about it now that it looks like it will fit me (perhaps). And nothing seems bent or bound up.
Need to get me a skid lid to keep my old man brains on the inside.
And holy crap is this geared low. Where was this kind of thing when I was a kid living halfway down the steepest hill in the whole neighborhood?
Here it’s flat, I’ll never get to that smallest crank wheel.
If I can get my training wheels off after all these years, I’ll enjoy it.
My bud in Alpine wants me to come ride with him. Hell, I’ll need a heart lung transplant before I can keep up….
Thanks again for all the help!
All the Best,
see if you can lock the shocks—will be much faster to ride
be careful with that rear derailleur
adjustment mistakes can destroy the whole frame (really)
I’m getting my old Schwinn Traveller back into shape… so I can get back into shape.
Def needs new rubber inside and out. Went over the chain and gears already, they look pretty good despite hints of rust on the chain (even if I replace it, bfd). Got new cables for brakes to use for poking through my car’s sunroof’s drain-tubes, so plenty extra in both long/short lengths.
Mine came with standard cheese-grater pedals, work great on sneakers, ’though I wouldn’t want to bike barefooty on ’em.
If you got dress-shoes you might be considering, beware that cheese-graters will chew up the nice untouched surface of the sole that doesn’t come in contact with the ground. But any flats should be fine.
Sneaks for me. Gave up on dress shoes when I made the move form Geophysicist to Independent (unemployed) to computer wiz.
Used to ride a bike to work when the weather was nice. Great thing about smaller cities.
Now we have major traffic. I means your life to ride a bike on any of the bigger streets. Bike lanes be dammed.
Hey just realized this is the perfect excuse to get new light(s).
Got to get my bike light Jones on! Though I’ll most likely never ride at night.
Need something with an annoying bike flasher mode…
All the Best,
When I realised I could take a coupla buses to work vs driving in, I used to joke “15min by car, 1:15 by buses”, but that gap closed a lot.
Extra traffic all times of day or night (eg, coming home after midnight in stop’n’go traffic?!?) made the trips by car closer to a half-hour or more.
And with the bustime app (best f’n money the MTA ever spent on anything), I could shave off any/all waiting time for the first bus and practically could walk right up to the bus as it’d be pulling into the stop, and bring travel time to about just under an hour if I got lucky.
So that gap closed, by a lot.
I was toying with the idea of taking a bike to work, but the sheer length of the trip and getting sweaty, and potentially getting smeared all over the asphalt by an asshat, all but nixed that idea. An e-bike, maybe, but there was still one stretch where it’s highway or nothing, the nearest way across the GCP/VWP would be a Jewel Ave crossing a few more miles out of my way.
And that’s the main problem, the way these douchebags drive. Bad enough they’ll cream bikers (motor and pedal), but they’re almost exclusively hit’n’runs. Hell, I got nicked by a huge SUV’s mirror standing on the sidewalk when he came too close and clipped me, that I spun around, had my arm ripped out of my duster’s pocket (ripping said pocket), and ended up on my back staring up at the sky wondering wtf ever happened. He stopped, paused, then took off.
Nope, I’ll stick to “recreational” biking where I can control the time and place and route.
(Oh, a witness got a plate# but was one character off, white sedan, and at my behest, trying a variation like ‘Q’ for ‘O’ turned up a dark SUV pretty much matching what nailed me. Cops said unless I or the witness would be positive, there was nothing they could do. And the SUV was regged to a house on east Lawn Guyland. Pretty coincidental for a statewade search!)
You might find this interesting—-klein race bike restore
I don’t think you could ride the bike if the chain was installed incorrectly. Here is a picture of a mountain bike with the chain. It comes back from the bottom of the chainring in the front. It goes behind the lower jockey wheel, in front of the upper jockey wheel, and then goes behind the cassette or freewheel. If you use the smallest (inner) chainring in front, and the smallest gear in back (outer) the chain might rub on the frame in front of the rear derailleur but you should not use that combination of gears anyway. It is called cross chaining and you should avoid using either inner/outer gear combination. As to the gear range. If you are used to a road bike, the gearing on it will be a lot higher than on a mountain bike because you do not need low gears to get over obstacles and climb more difficult terrain compared to riding on a street. If you change the tires, look for “city or slick” tires for riding on the road. Much quieter and more comfortable than the knobby tires that come stock on a mountain bike. Look for something called a “platform pedal” for riding with ordinary shoes.
i also did not understand what you meant about the chain
apparently you are riding the bike so i can;t really imagine what is wrong
explain or send pictures
I’m not riding it yet. Just put some air in the tires and sorta coasted it across the driveways. With a gentle movement of the cranks.
The chain is definitely threaded wrong. It still moves through the derailleur arm. But it is on the wrong side of the ??? Bar? / piece of metal that sits between the two wheels on the derailleur arm.
It rubs on this piece. But not any wear there I can tell. Know more after I get the chain off.
It can be ridden like this but not by me.
Saw a YouTube vid on chain replacement that showed the correct path. That agreed with what I surmised to be the correct way to do it.
I’ll post a pic after I get done with my infusions for the month.
Lots of dried grease. Need to find some cheap wrenches and get the wheel bearings apart and goop ’me up.
All the Best,
it should not be necessary to ’break the chain to get it back in the right place.
again a picture would help
‘greasing the wheels’ is a huge job, and you have to get it adjusted right afterwards
you need cone wrenches, cassette remover, at least
i wouldn;t do that til you decide to keep or not
consider a bike shop for that
A pic will show it…
Imagine the S shape made by the chain… Stick a pin on arms between the wheels. The chain can go on one side of the pin.
The pin is slightly offset. With the chain on the correct side it moves freely.
The other way it just rubs on the pin.
The pin in this case is a tap of metal that is bent in from the derailleur arms.
When I post the pic it will become obvious.
No other way to get it right break the chain or dissemble the derailleur.
ok still need pic
If someone routed it improper, you should be able to lift the chain from the two derailer gear pulley wheels (jockey and idler) and start over.
Can’t imagine how someone could route the chain to cross the cage plate arm, but it would be possible. Also the pulley wheels can be loosened and removed if for some reason it is really fubar. There is usually a guard to keep the chain from jumping off held by the same bolts that connect the cage plate.
No need to break the chain unless you just got the urge.