Black flat in D1S (or any similar sized thrower) help

I’m wondering if anybody has any ideas how to put a onslon black flat inside a D1S (or any similar sized thrower) I just bought 4 of the LED from mouser electronics, now I have no idea what MCPBC to put it on and what driver to use, I would appreciate the help if anyone knows

They fit on a xp-board but are a bit harder to position during reflowing.

You can use the driver that comes with the light, maybe limit current with a not so high drain cell if you want.

Sweet original driver works!? I haven’t worked with these leds before will I see a major improvement in throw?

Thinking of it again. I think there was something with the central pad being connected with the ground. So maybe you have to isolate the central pad.

And maybe a fet driver is not the best option then.

Better wait for more some more opinion s.

EDIT: probably easiest to keep a xp-board board and driver and isolate the entire ledboard with a layer of artic alumina thermal adhesive.

Alright so basically just keep everything and reflow the Olson onto the MCPCB and isolate it form the pill with glue then put paste under the glue, easy enough

No need for paste and glue, the glue you use is also the thermal conductor.

What kind of thermal glue should I use? Is there Any type that is preferred by many modders?

I use arctic alumina thermal adhesive.

you likely need a p-fet driver

I had made some tests but there was no really interest

Please explain me why? For higher resistance?

I was in contact with vinh from skylumen and he informed me that I can use the driver and Mcpcb as long as I use a 10a max discharge battery

Edit: and I use thermal epoxy underneath like other people have been saying, I only asked him because he did this exact mod but discontinued it for some reason

A typical FET driver uses a N channel FET which switches the cathode/LED-/GND side of the emitter, that’s why on all the BLF based drivers LED anode (LED) is directly wired to BATT. In the case of the OLSEN, since the thermal pad and the cathode are electrically connected our drivers don’t work w/o the MCPCB being isolated cause it’s technically as if LED- is shorted to ground therefor bypassing the driver.

A P channel FET switches the + side so the fact LED- goes straight to ground doesn’t matter and the MCPCB doesn’t have to be isolated since switching happens on the anode (LED+) side.

So basically to use the installed driver all I have to do is isolate the mcpcb so it doesn’t short to ground and bypass the driver

I’m just trying to find the simplest way to do this but if I have to buy another driver I guess I will

A good simple way I’ve used to electrically isolate the MCPCB from the shelf is with a couple narrow strips of kapton or Scotch tape. Make sort of a perimeter of tape around the edge of the MCPCB. The tape acts as a spacer preventing metal to metal contact. Kapton tape is only around 50 microns thick so it doesn’t really add thickness. Then use any ceramic-based thermal paste or adhesive.

I wouldn’t use kapton tape anywhere heat needs the least impeded path possible. Much worse of a solution than thermal epoxy… Hell I’d use UltraGrey RTV before kapton.

I plan to do my first Oslon build using this: http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/13-minus-pad-8-en
Almost the same thermal conductivity as AS5 and it’s electrically insulating.

Thnx!

No need to change driver , stock driver doesn’t share ground with the flashlight .

Or you can buy this non DTP ceramic insulated MCPCB from led4power.

The tape is only covering a small area around the perimeter, creating a small volume that the thermal paste fills.