Black FW3A on Amzn bezel removal?

LED Flashlights – General Info 18650 Flashlights
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I’m late to the FW3A scene… and now regret it. I bought the black FW3A off of you know who. Although the packaging only says CW, I’m pretty sure its the XP-L Hi with the driver that is purple with 6 chips visible in the head.

However, the bezel does not seem removable by hand. Can anyone confirm that I should give it some heat and work it off or am I doing it wrong?

Also, does anyone know if I purchase from the same link on Amz are they all with this same driver or is it random? It’s the only FW3A Amz lists when searching… its black.

Also, anyone know if it’s a Carclo optic? The description lists “Standard TIR optical lens.”

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CW = XPL-HI 6500K
The TIR is a Carclo 10511

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That’s the FET+7+1, it’s better than the Red FET+1

I can’t speak for Amazon, but lately most of the Black and Gray FW3A are coming with the FET+7+1.
Purple FW3A is hit or miss it seems.

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Thanks for the info!

After messing around with swapping the LED and driver on my SL E-series head and Convoy S2+ head, I thought I’d try my hand at messing around with the FW3A.

Problem is I actually really like this combo of Optic, LED, and driver on this, so I might get a second to mess around with, but would prefer a different color. Maybe I’ll just wait and get a different color from a different seller (when available) and start messing with that one.

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Thought I’d post a pic for a size comparison for those who don’t have one:

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Left to right: Malkoff (Mk) 1xCR123, Lumintop FW3A, Surefire Backup MV (Mk head), Mk AA body Lumens Factory head, Fenix LD30, 20+ year old SF Defender w/ Mk head, Convoy S2+

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Is on Ali

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The bezel? I have 2 fw1a’s and 1 had tons of glue and the other had none.

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Yes, thank you. I meant bezel. I’ll edit the post.

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I have 9 FW3(A/B/C) and I have worked on several FW3(A/T).
None were glued and the bezels came right off.

That being said you might try a rubber strap wrench to get yours off.
A word of caution, be sure to leave the battery tube installed for added crush strength.

Edit: I highly recommend you get 2 sets and use the 2 of the smaller ones.

https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-strap-wrench-set-2-piece-69373.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169269821&campaignid=12169269821&utm_content=117203747179&adsetid=117203747179&product=69373&store=747&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7GnBhDXARIsAFLvH4lIKyFcYAnVAVPv9rWOF-zdwrkmOX7p24lHc8b4cFkMLy7CN3rEusYaAtD1EALw_wcB

Or

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-2-Piece-Household-Tool-Set/50029434

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Thanks for the tip! I know I have a rubber strap wrench burried in one of my tool chests. I’ll give that a try. If not, I’ll grab a second from a local hardware store.

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I ran into my first FW3A Bezel with Red Loctite tonight.

I used heat and 2 strap wrenchs and a whole lot of muscle, and it was a freakin nightmare!

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The strap on my brand new strap wrenchs started to break:

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And I scratched up my light in the process:

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I hate so much my frustration when a bezel doesn’t move. For the EC06 I buy 2 strap wrenches for gasoline filters! But I win

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I got a FW3A from there one time because I had a gift card. The bezel wasn’t screwed on all the way so the glass rattled. I tried to tighten it/get it off and it was the only time I was bested by a bezel. Companies should save money and just not buy red thread locker for lights.

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Thank you all for the replies. Since I like the stock components on this particular FW3A I am opting to keep it stock. I’m conflicted as I am a fan of the SF E-series parts/sizes and the mechanical switch for EDC (I know that limits my current options.

I’m thinking about dabbling with the head of my BackupEV, since it’s now replaced with my Malkoff and LF heads. Maybe I’ll order a couple more components from LF, but the prices are now up there for something that I will later mod or take apart.