It was not intended to emulate an “old” lantern, we went with a wide range of color CCT, and keep CRI high. There was no suitable 3535 LEDs at the time that had high CRI & was efficient enough in the 1800K ~ 2000K range. Using a yellow plastic bowl as a shade like the one in the image below helps give a warmer effect.
This isn’t available off the shelf, but here is one option hopefully available soon to modify the LT1 for lower color temperatures:
The simple option would be to order the MCPCB with 2700K for the “cold” emitter, and deep red for the “warm” emitter. It will compromise on CRI as you ramp to the red channel, but the combined output should warm the effective CCT on the way to red.
Somebody on reddit also recently found some Luxeon 1800K, 90 CRI emitters in the same size as the Sunlike board uses - 2835. It should be possible to install these on the Sunlike board on your own:
They are interest but high shipping cost and maybe require some skill to be solder on 3535 boards.
Hope the major brands finally relase these ultrawarm Leds in standard size,world is now full of harsh cool and neutral white Leds.
The photo posted are 1800k PC “amber” Leds from AE
Seller declare 80 Cri but hard to believe
A question about my LT1 which arrived from Sofirn China about 6 weeks ago.
I was playing with Sunset mode and thought I had it set properly after a couple of test runs but, it was totally dead the next morning.
I plugged it into the port on my USB hub which I use with my cellphone (2A port) and let it run overnight. When I left the office where it was charging, the switch glowed a steady blue. Mid-morning the following day, I unplugged it and the switch began blinking blue. I tried to switch it on and it glowed on a low setting and went out on its own and the switch color changed to steady orange.
I broke the contact with the batteries (twisted the base a few turns) and then tightened everything back up and never got the blue switch again, only orange.
Thinking the batteries weren't properly charged, I removed them put them into my Nitecore 4-bay charger which showed a good status on all batteries, and after a few hours put ~150mah and less than 0.2V into them. Reinstalling the batteries returned it to "normal" functionality.
Is this user error where I don't understand what the LT1 is trying to tell me with the led colors in the power switch? Or, do I possibly have a battery or lantern issue? My other LT1 is about 4 months older (Anduril 2) and hasn't shown this behavior but, it also hasn't been totally depleted to absolutely flat batteries. I also charge this LT1 on the same cable and charger port
The best thing I can tell from what I saw is that the "new" LT1 was trying to "CHARGE" the USB hub instead of taking a charge from it. Perhaps, the power flickered out here in rural Texas while I slept, and the LT1 thought the "hub" was needing to BUDDY CHARGE?
Still worth purchasing? Any negative modifications by the manufacturer similar to what Lumintop did? I don’t want to purchase and find out Sofirn cheaped out on materials/made worse changes to the BLF model
I can't speak to what may be in the pipeline but, I have two LT1's from the "current generation" and love them. They are my most used lights.
Considering its price point and what I see on the Sofirn website, I don't see any suggestion of these being "cheaped out" or otherwise being downgraded. In fact, I see what looks like a new control board on their website to update the first generation LT1 lanterns to the current hardware and functionality but, I don't have enough knowledge to speak to the charging and similar features in the current generation, and this new replacement PCB.
It is a really awesome option with a lot of features. The minor size difference in the CL2 had my attention for a little while but, the LT1 simply works so well for me and its feature set was better. Plus, the 18650 batteries have worked really well for me during recent power outages. I even overheard my friend's wife on the phone with my friend say "Sid has a really awesome light!" to him while I was over at the cabin chatting with her while the power was out.
I would say if you don’t specifically want to make sure you get any of the following features, don’t worry about which version you get. Any of them will still be the best lantern on the market:
- Powerbank functionality (I think this is universal now?)
- Ability to change the maximum current by bridging or clearing solder jumpers
- Pin arrangement for flashing new firmware.
If you do care, you’ll have to search upthread for information to guide which version to seek out, but I don’t think there is necessarily any certainty which version you will get, regardless of where you order.
To begin with, the FW3A was never produced to the manufacturing standards the FW3A team wanted. Hence the issues common to every version.
Lumintop made a few minor changes to the FW3A over time, then eventually some major unpopular changes: added a bunch of tacky-looking branding, and recently moved to a cheaper crappier driver
The FW1A used to be amazing, then they cheaped out on the reflector and it sucks now. Note that it appears they just used the FW1A Pro reflector (designed for XHP50.2 3V iirc) for all FW1As eventually. It's pretty bad with normal 3535 emitters
The 21700-series FW lights are reportedly, um, oddly designed and don't really fit 21700s very well. I don't own one, and I never will.
Early on they tried to bait-and-switch the optics (Carclo triple + glass lens) for something else that lacked the glass lens entirely. Backlash was bad enough that they switched back, at least for a while. Not sure if they ever went back to the cheap optics.
They continued to never get the tolerances right for the tail switch so they also made a version that relies on a proprietary battery instead, lol
With Loneocean's Lume1 project, they at some point just made it without his final revisions. Actually, I think that's kind of how the FW3A project went: the team still wasn't happy with the latest version they got, and then Lumintop started production.
I order mine from the Sofirn website because they are ~$10 cheaper, for me at least and, I always get the most recent revision.
I should also note I get the Orange LT1 which is hard to source from anywhere but, Sofirn. I live in the USA and Sofirn ships out of China as fast as some of my shipments from Amazon. Seriously, I average under 2 weeks from order to having it in my hands after shipping all the way from China to Texas.
I would encourage you to look on Aliexpress at the "web-store" and at the Sofirn website.
If you don’t need the powerbank feature, I think it’s best to go with the original LT1. For a while, Sofirn had them on sale to move old inventory. This Nov 11th, there could be another sale.
Firstly, the Anduril version in the LT1 v1 is excellent. Anduril v2 introduced minor improvements. Second, Sofirn started messing with the mcpcb and the LED indicators. I simply do not like the button glowing green when on. That’s meant for charge completion indication. The original glows orange, which is a proper color. Frankly, if it was green I’d be wincing every time I look at the damned thing. OCD? Maybe… but I’m grateful to give up the powerbank feature for orange.