BLF LT1 Runtime test *updated 12/11 with step level 2*

GreenCampfire · 2019-12-11T18:29:45.000Z

I updated the original post with a runtime test for for step level 2. I also updated the charts above for step levels 4 and 3 to more accurately reflect what the relative lumens output is at each step. The steps levels is not a linear progression, for example, step 4 is not 80% of max, step 3 is not 60% of max, etc. This is done intentionally since our eye wouldn’t perceive the change in output as linear even if it was.

ToyKeeper · 2019-12-11T22:38:03.000Z

toobadorz:

I successfully flashed PL47, PL47G2, E01, E07, so I believe the same thing should work with ROT66G2 and LT1 directly. But it didn’t work.

I was doing some work on the PL47 G2 and ROT66 G2 last night, and it took forever to get the ROT66 G2 to flash sometimes. I’m not sure why, but it worked pretty okay a few times and then failed, and it took hundreds of tries to get it to flash again. I was sure I had bricked it somehow, even though the fuse values weren’t touched.

So I’m wondering if maybe there’s still some sort of interaction with the aux LED board like what happened with the first few iterations of the aux LED boards. On the E07 I have to physically disconnect the aux LEDs before flashing firmware.

Eventually I got the ROT66 G2 to flash again, so it’s not bricked. It seemed to respond more often when using a 3.3V setting instead of 5V… but I’m not sure if that was actually relevant.

I haven’t had this issue on a LT1, but I still don’t have a production model.

dealgrabber2002 · 2019-12-12T00:26:11.000Z

Thank you so much for doing this GreenCampFire!

toobadorz · 2019-12-12T06:05:07.000Z

ToyKeeper:

I was doing some work on the PL47 G2 and ROT66 G2 last night, and it took forever to get the ROT66 G2 to flash sometimes. I’m not sure why, but it worked pretty okay a few times and then failed, and it took hundreds of tries to get it to flash again. I was sure I had bricked it somehow, even though the fuse values weren’t touched.

So I’m wondering if maybe there’s still some sort of interaction with the aux LED board like what happened with the first few iterations of the aux LED boards. On the E07 I have to physically disconnect the aux LEDs before flashing firmware.

Eventually I got the ROT66 G2 to flash again, so it’s not bricked. It seemed to respond more often when using a 3.3V setting instead of 5V… but I’m not sure if that was actually relevant.

I haven’t had this issue on a LT1, but I still don’t have a production model.

I did try to disconnect the aux LED wires before flashing, but that still didn’t work either after so many times of trials…well, at least I’m not alone :weary:

GreenCampfire · 2019-12-19T02:36:19.000Z

Hi all, I wrote my review of the LT1 lantern here: https://greencampfire.com/blf-lt1-lantern-review/

sbslider · 2019-12-19T02:46:17.000Z

A nice review GreenCampfire. :+1:

One small critique, the statement below could use a tweak.

I think the most useful is the battery checker. A triple click from off will make the light blink to show the voltage remaining in the batteries. For example, 3 long blinks followed by 7 short blinks means the batteries are at 3.7V.

The only short blinks during bat check are for a zero.

dealgrabber2002 · 2019-12-19T02:49:30.000Z

You misspelled Sofirn otherwise Great write-up!

raccoon · 2019-12-19T02:50:07.000Z

dealgrabber2002:

You misspelled Sofirn.

And BLF.

DBSAR · 2019-12-19T03:06:35.000Z

GreenCampfire:

Hi all, I wrote my review of the LT1 lantern here: https://greencampfire.com/blf-lt1-lantern-review/

Great review! :+1: I will certainly bookmark your website and share the review with others asking about it.

GreenCampfire · 2019-12-19T11:16:17.000Z

Thanks for the corrections sbslider, dealgrabber2002, and raccoon city, I’ve updated the review to correct the spelling mistakes and blinking behavior.

Also, the manual says the LEDs are 2700K and 5000K, not 3000K and 4000K like I originally wrote which I have updated in the review as well.

Lumeniac · 2020-01-27T10:46:27.000Z

hi, guys.

i`m working on review of this gem, will compare it to CL30R.

and i faced question - what is manual and automatic memory in 5 clicks? tried to search , but couldnt find answer

Kame_Sennin · 2020-01-27T11:59:44.000Z

IIRC

Manual : You set the level you want, set the memory to manual and after that the lantern will start with this level at each power On.

Auto : When powering On the lantern will start at the same lvl it was at last power Off.

Lumeniac · 2020-01-27T12:06:27.000Z

grand mercy,

red manual several times, found nothing. strange.

btw, manual (at least the one i got from sofirn) contains lots ot copy-paste from regular Anduril UI, which dont refer to LT1 -)

sbslider · 2020-01-27T13:32:26.000Z

English manual is here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1HIFCFcBus5XRjKMfgkjAR7nH1R62qp_5

While the LT1 is on, 5H clicks (not releasing the 5th click, but hold) sets it to manual memory, or where it was last turned off. This is the default. 5C (just 5 clicks) from on sets it to auto memory, where it turns on at the level it was at when you set auto memory.

Lumencraft-Matt · 2020-02-08T20:10:55.000Z

sbslider:

Out of curiousity I decided to measure the current at 100% WW, 100% NW, and default tint at the five defalut stepped levels.
|Level|( WW )|( NW )|( Default )|
|1| (0.016) )| (0.016) )| (0.016 )|
|2| (0.158) )| (0.158) )| (0.178 )|
|3| (0.490 )| (0.492) )| (0.492 )|
|4| (1.01) )| (1.01) )| (1.27) |
|5| (1.80) )| (1.80) )| (2.23) |

For levels 1 and 3, the current is the same for each tint mix. But for levels 2, 4 and 5 the default tint mix current is higher. Used a button top 30Q cell for the measurements.

So with the drive current being 16ma on level one it appears we could reasonably assume 600 hours run time before the first stepdown?

That would make the output on level one like 6 lumens?

DBSAR · 2020-02-08T20:54:53.000Z

vestureofblood:

sbslider:

Out of curiousity I decided to measure the current at 100% WW, 100% NW, and default tint at the five defalut stepped levels.
|Level|( WW )|( NW )|( Default )|
|1| (0.016) )| (0.016) )| (0.016 )|
|2| (0.158) )| (0.158) )| (0.178 )|
|3| (0.490 )| (0.492) )| (0.492 )|
|4| (1.01) )| (1.01) )| (1.27) |
|5| (1.80) )| (1.80) )| (2.23) |

For levels 1 and 3, the current is the same for each tint mix. But for levels 2, 4 and 5 the default tint mix current is higher. Used a button top 30Q cell for the measurements.

So with the drive current being 16ma on level one it appears we could reasonably assume 600 hours run time before the first stepdown?

That would make the output on level one like 6 lumens?

His measurements were close to that i was getting too when i was testing the amp loads. (with the 5-AMCs default per channel) 6 lumens average seems to be about that output on the lowest of the stepped ramp setting.

Lumencraft-Matt · 2020-02-08T22:37:09.000Z

On the bottom of the driver I see the solder brides to enable more 7135 chips. I also see a screw. What is the screw for?

DBSAR · 2020-02-08T23:37:34.000Z

vestureofblood:

On the bottom of the driver I see the solder brides to enable more 7135 chips. I also see a screw. What is the screw for?

correct, there are two extra bridges for enabling up to 7 of the AMC regulator chips for each channel of the tint ramp, (meaning it is even possible to have a lower maximum output on one channel than the other, ( as in a brighter 5000K N/W end and a dimmer maximum 2700K W/W ramp end, or have both equal to increase the total outputs (but loose some run time) I believe Lexel mentioned the varisistor (adjustable resistor as some control of the side switch glow operation, (which has its own mode selections from low, high, candle flicker, off, etc.

angerdan · 2022-01-01T00:16:58.000Z

Great review, thank you!

The Sofirn LT1s with 1x 21700 is now out on the market

Sofirn LT1S (shorty LT1 with 2700k/6500k/red?) LED Lanterns

Well, this is new. A shorty, single 21700 LT1 with a red channel and a wider adjustable CCT range? Also looks like you might be able to individually control left and right side emitters. [image] [image] Here’s what I could gather Emitters: 18x 2700k, 18x 6500k, 4x red (all unknown manufacturer/model/CRI/duv, but they’re referred to as CSP—perhaps Nichia E17A, E21A or Luxeon HL1) UI: Unknown, but features suggest a customized Anduril with triple-click for red. Battery: 1x21700 (onboard US…

idahofarmer · 2022-01-01T04:24:25.000Z

So graphs and pie-charts are good on paper but real world isn’t the same. We are off grid up here in N Idaho. I have 2 LT1s and love them to death. One hangs in the livingroom and one in the bathroom. We use them every morning and every night. Time is aprox 4-5hrs per day. We get about 5 days use before they start auto-dimming levels (means it needs charging). The one in the bathroom will go almost 7 days because we use it on a lower mode, but we charge both at same time.

So 5-7 days of real world use. If you were frugal and used at lowest setting that you could see by it might last 2 weeks.