BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

I see you got one with dirty reflector and lens. Use my above mentioned method for cleaning that out. It should work.

I did read it :nerd_face: i think i got things mixed up because not everyone is using the same method… and i dont have a lathe but maybe with a file and a whetstone :partying_face:

Tried cleaning glass but it won’t clean .

Not touching reflector with something , lesson learned :disappointed: Even microfiber cloth leaves micro scratches


I disagree. Some guys are cleaning camera sensors and lenses with same stuff(you can use very fine microfiber cloth if you are concerned) and I don’t even have to tell how sensitive stuff is that.

But I respect your opinion. I guess even dirty reflector will throw. Reflector from Supfire factory really comes fingerprinted and dirty from factory. They use slap and play assembling method.

I could not resist anymore so i ordered one to test this thing out, my plan is fet driven xml-2 on maxtooch board, i have no use for that led-board combo so i thought i give a chance to this light, it should be fun modding it :smiley:

I just need to find cheap cooper board so i can make spacer from it, those noctigon boards that i have all around me are too good to chop them.

Jay, I had time for a mod today!

My second Supwildfire. It had the fake XM-L2 and a cheap aluminium pill. But also a fat Omten switch at the back which is nice, I only had to solder a wire from the brass cap to the bottom of the spring, add a colourful silicon tailcap and the tail was done.

So I had bought one of those expensive 26mm Maxtoch boards (before I knew about the cheaper Manker version ) and all was fine they said. Well, I do not know how other people did it but for me it required quite some fancy pill modifications to get it working.

Sawing off the rim

Sanding the top flat (a very thin edge was leftover, later I removed it)

Holes drilled in the side

Dremeled the opening out. Also added 20AWG wires to a bistro-driver and made a spring-bypass. Also carefully reamed the reflector opening so that one of my better centerpieces would exactly fit. The centerpiece was also sanded down on the underside so that it only sticks out of the reflector by just a fraction of a mm (=correct focus for a dedomed led!)

Then flattened the Maxtoch board on the underside as well as possible (800 grit) reflowed an old type XP-G2 S3 3D on it and hot-dedomed the led (went well :-) )

Then the driver was fixed into the pill (it has a well working retaining ring for it :-) ), applied a very thin layer of Arctic silver 5 on the pill, screwed the pill into the head into position (top level of the pill just above the shelf in the head surrounding it) and fixed the position by screwing in the battery tube against it (very tight). The ledboard was pressed on the pill and the ledwires soldered. I did not fix the board to the pill, just hoped that when screwing down the bezel, the reflector would not shear something off.

It worked well, the reflector nicely pressed down the board when closing the bezel, without damaging the ledwires (at least the light works fine )

Now I have two of these modded!

The current on a VTC6, measured with a clamp meter with the tail section of the flashlight off, is about 3.9 A. The output at 30 seconds: I measured 965 djozz-lumen. I carefully measured the throw (VTC6, 30 seconds, 7 meter distance) and measured a rewarding 322 kcd. And very steady as well, hardly dropping output, perhaps thanks to that huge Maxtoch board.

Good job !!!, what centering used for xpg2? regards!!

I used these from Banggood: 5 Stück Konvoi XPL Isolationsblatt für 9-mm-Reflektorloch Sale - Banggood Deutschland sold out-arrival notice-arrival notice , they are too large so I reamed the hole in the reflector to exactly fit the center piece.

Very nice mod djozz :beer:

That beam tint looks like my old maglite magcharger :slight_smile:

Nice modd Djozz but no freaking chance that old XP-G2 S3 3D throws same or better than mine good old XP-G2 S4 2B. I would bet with anyone any day for that statement.

Since you are so far away I guess I will have to send mine Mitko’s thrower to you for proper measuring. Cause that cheapo we both have even with your mentioned 11,4% add on measurement gives same numbers as yours on fully charged Samsung inr 30Q.

And BTW all my pictures disappeared from forum. F……g Photobucket!

Sorry about your pictures, I’m lucky to always have used flickr, until of course they will start charging as well :frowning:

About the mod doing the same numbers as your S4 2B: I did do everything very right, including the focus :innocent: :partying_face:

And now I am really depressed and pissed off. All my pictures disappeared. :person_facepalming:

Djozz I have to buy that expensive lux meter like yours to be 100 % sure in my measurements.

Where I can buy it?


I don’t even doubt that you gave your best in that awesome mod :+1: :beer:


One more edit… This is popular thread and I know that Mitko will not beat me :slight_smile:

Photobucket pics disappeared to everyone. Thread is here Photobucket images broken, $399 a year!

I guess we need some computer programing expert to help us (if that is possible?)

I bought mine secondhand for 450 euro, it is a Mobilux meter, in fact a class B Gossen meter with a custom class A sensor. New it is 1200 euro. Strangely enough it is made in Germany but I can only find a dutch seller:

The Gossen class B luxmeter with class B sensor is somewhat cheaper but still well over 500 euro.

Are you sure you want to buy it new? :person_facepalming:

Ufff… Frankly speaking it is very expensive. :slight_smile: I can buy good hunting rifle for that price.

Anything with that kind of sensor on other makes of lux meters for more friendly price?

luminarium iaculator

I`d strongly recommend Asensetek lighting passport m8, i use it for over 4 years not, 2 different models and its not only a luxmeter but spectrometer too, check it out

“made in Germany ” is not what it`s used to be….believe or not i do prefer some local OEM hunting stuff that Blazer or Zig original parts, Germany dropped the quality great time, prolly cause of China…or corporate greeed, or both.

Like Gekko……and i liked it before they nuke the quality, especialy Target and Plus

Maybe you will get lucky on eBay, but I wouldn’t count on it. The filter is the important part. It has to closely match the “color sensitivity” of the human eye.

Mitko has this one:

Djozz this one:

Their main characteristic is 1000euro!

What would be nice to see is that Mitko and Djozz compare their luxmeters on same host. Mitko’s super thrower light.

Those Supwildfire factory should praise you Mitko with at least 10-20 free hosts.

Comparing lux meters with one host will not reveal the differences, you will have compare them with all sorts of light sources to see what differences there are.

But my luxmeter does only one thing (though very well), Mitko’s device is way more versatile and given that it measures spectra (which is fundamentally different from a normal luxmeter) with the right calibration (!) it will do lux measurements very well too.

(I’d love to have one of those, Mitko, but really can’t justify that for what for me is a hobby)

Nice mod djozz. I admire your way of cutting of the lip on the pill. If I tried that it would have ended in tears. :slight_smile:

Thanks! :slight_smile:

Twenty years ago I bought, for a lot of money I thought, a small Proxxon band saw. It is mostly plastic but the essential parts were apparently well-made because it helt up for all those years and it has proven immensely useful and time-saving in many little projects.
But for who does not have that luxury: a hack saw should do the job as well.