Ah ok, I thought she was playing with it unsupervised.
Try blinding yourself with a 4x XM-L2 in a SMO reflector. That’s 3000+ lumens (and who knows what the cd was). I’m just glad the light was on in the room. If the lights were off and my pupils were dilated … oh boy.
hoho ho sorry for bad explainnation battery from scrap yes but this is an original samsung battery from a toshiba notebook so i guess 100% better then any unknow ultra fire or all that batteries. my daughter is well instructed and know that she dont look into the LED and not put in to anyones face.
yes its to the bare eye not measured with any lux meter but the bare eye is what i use the most lux meter numbers dont help my fetish of a bright light the bare eye is for the real world more realistic a lux meter is for scientists or programmers of flashlight software amazing but for me i use the eye.
i will send pics to compare with the brigest lights i got my brightest is a fenix PD35 and compare with Nitecore MH 12 and blf a6
ok here are some pics distance to white wall 30cm 1ft
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yes i agree it sure jsut seems to be brighter in a dark room this light makes it the brightest its hard to show on a pic but it feels liek brighter then other lights and sure the led colour is whiter cooler
thank you very good explaination that was i wondering can i change the programm pity i cant as i learned form you
spring switch there are none only one sping at the end negative site of the 19650 front positive is direct one the driver and there is no switch its a twister.
i bought it quiet long ago over then a year the link is gone but this is the shop i bought it from http://www.aliexpress.com/store/333670
this was the text to it:
NEW 1600 Lumen 3 Mode CREE XM-L T6 LED For 18650 Waterproof Diving Flashlight Torch
(dewei han)
i found several same looking lights but not sure will it be the same guts i wanna order more of this light.
so if someone find it please share the link
its a battery from a toshiba laptop i called it scrap because it was “free” and not quality batteries which i buy for much more money and in much more advanced lights for same or less light output
all i was wondering why this led with this driver is so bright for so little and 10x more bucks dont give you more output
if you buy a car for example for x USD and you buy a car for 2 or 4 times X there is much more difference right ??/ that what i jsut been curious about 9usd vs 20 25 50 70 and so on
- A battery that can’t deliver high current
- Colder tint
yes you are right i jsut tried the ceiling test and the A6 is brighter even warmer tint but the floor is brighter illuminated from the bounce
If you are just looking for a bright light and not specifically dive light I would suggest you buying Convoy C8. It’s consistent in quality, it will put out more light and it will have a more focused beam than your dive light.
i got 2 convoy s2+ with the same guts as the c8 in your link.
the dive light is good its quiet rugged 1 year with my daughter and its still working usually only things from solid steel granite or hard wood survive that test
i was curious if someone know that driver and is avail for sale somewhere. but i jsut learned here that this driver cant be programmed thats would be to good the blf a6 cod e on this driver.
From the ceiling bounce test you did it’s quite obvious that it’s not about the driver, but the reflector difference. Placing this driver into A6 won’t make it any better.
If you want to make your BLF F6 brighter use a high drain IMR battery, Samsung 25R for example. This can make a difference.
And if you have the Convoy C8, I’m curious how it compares to the dive light
thanks Pregulla for the tips i will try the c8 i got al lkind of good batteries and did the spring bypass all helps a bit but nothing big.
i will try this c8 thing but the reflector of the divelight is the standard drop in used in so many lights like Ultrafie wb 502 and surefire and all of this standard drop in lights
The C8 probably didn’t get any brighter (or hardly any) because it’s current limited, just like the one in your dive light. That’s why spring bypasses and better cells than your decent laptop pulls don’t increase the output. Your cell and springs can already supply adequate current. In the A6, every little bit adds up because it is direct drive thru the FET.
Adding a driver like the A6 driver to the C8 or dive light will make them brighter, but if the LED’s aren’t mounted on a direct thermal path board such as a sinkpad or Noctigon then you risk burning up the LED’s.
De-dome an emitter and it seems twice as bright and actually is twice as intense. However, it will actually have less lumens. Lux vs Lumens. Larger reflector = more lux. So it’s the same, in a way, as the de-domed emitter.
I have built lights with all kinds of great numbers that don’t seem all that great outside because of lack of lux.
There is a lot to be said about using smaller more efficient emitters because of the gain you get in the lux department.
That does appear to be a direct drive driver. So be careful putting super high amp batteries in that light or doing spring mods, changing wires or anything like that. It’s probably very close to being maxed out right now and if you bump the amps up more without the emitter being on a noctigon/sinkpad you could kill it.
18sixfifty, you’re wiser than I when it comes to driver design I’m betting. I was under the impression that there’s probably something about the dive light that would make it limit current, probably because of the current limitations of the FET on the board or in the way the PWM is controlling the output. Do you think I’m probably wrong about that? (I definitely could be, like I said I’m not a driver designer and have no idea what the specs are for that FET or CX2809)
Oh I would say you are correct that it’s not a really low resistance FET but probably still direct drive with a decent enough fet that it’s at 3 amps or more right now. Probably right on the edge of what it can handle. If it was a really low resistance FET it would already have blown the emitter. Also I’m not a super driver guru either. I can build them and all that but only after someone else has done all the hard design work for me. I have modded a ton of drivers too but it’s unfortunately hit and miss with me on them. Once I get to know a driver I do ok but not like some of the guys around here.