I had here still parts left from a dead Klarus XT12GT and the XT11GT driver and switch going in the Klarus XT12GTS mod.
The driver was from a dead XT12GT I saw that the FET was burned
I tested it, just to measure the FET in the boost circuit was burned because in any case the FET got 3.3V with no modulation,
so switching the FET would not solve the problem.
Unsoldering the burned springs and components from driver and tail cap.
I soldered a massive copper wire to hold the tail cap board.
And used a Dremel with tiny tip to remove the copper connecting the spring pad directly to the body.
Then soldering back the forward switch and connections for it and the mode switch.
I modified the tailcap, to work as a real forward switch plus a mode switch.
I decided to build the light with Texas Avenger driver and a XPL HI V3-3C.
The LED is on a Noctigon 20mm star.
I did the first aluminum solder experiments on this head, so the star is soldered to the body.
I got the parts and boards relatively quick, but was waiting for the 7135 from china,
so I could only solder 3 on it for testing the driver.
Making space to fit the new driver.
I did remove even more of the old PCB to make the driver and cables fit.
The whole power cables are 0.75mm².
Finally when the firmware was perfect I assembled the driver and applied silicone with a syringe.
After trying to find a firmware to run the light with a true forward switch and momentary switch I tried to get Bistro HD or Narsil working.
Tom E was pretty fast doing a small code change so the light always comes on Turbo when the battery gets connected.
So the light is focused on tactical if the forward switch is OFF.
When the forward switch is ON and the light turned off with the momentary and then it operates as you configured Narsil.
I did some minor changes in the Narsil Triple code for the mode groups as well to adjust the brightness levels to the 7135*5+1 setup.
I did the first color change by heat experiments on this body, so the tail cap color is too pale.
I sanded down the attack bezel a bit, then applied heat to change the color a bit,
but it’s not looking that obvious as the bezel is frosted.
I sanded the outer part of the bezel also down to 2500 paper which looks almost as polished.
To fill the hole where the side switch was I used a steel rod.
The steel rod was trimmed so its press fit in the switch hole.
And I used 2 component glue mixed with carbon powder to fill the gap.
The USB cover is as well glued with this black epoxy.
Finally the modded XT11GT next to my modded XT12GTS.
I also cut and sanded the XT12GT bezel.