Eh, if they’re all being driven from the same driver and only one turns blue like that, I’d be willing to bet that you have a short on that flashlight. Could you use a meter (preferably a clamp meter with a short heavy gauge wire) to check how many amps are actually getting drawn? If it’s “only” 5 amps, then you’ve got a bad thermal path somewhere because that thing is overheating. Accidentally skip the thermal paste? Is the pill not screwed down tightly? I’d suspect a short though.
Thanks for answering, I have done the test with the multimeter and it extracts 4.35 amps.
It has good quality thermal paste and the led is not screwed, but with a round plastic nut.
Obviously I have a short but I do not know how to verify it, at first glance the pill is fine, where can the fault be?
After 4 full minutes it turns blue? My first guess would be that brass pill doesnt have as good thermal properties when compared to aluminium. And the mcpcb is rather small also.
I think its simply getting heat soaked. Maybe try adding thermal paste in between the pill and bodys mainly on the threads.
If the body is heating up considerably then heat is getting pulled away even if the brass pill has worse thermal properties than aluminum.
If it’s generating more heat than your other lights, there pretty much has to be a short somewhere.
So, it turns blue before 24 seconds? What happens if you remove the pill and connect it directly to a battery? Don’t do that for too long but if it still turns blue right away then you have a short in the pill itself.
I’d say it’s probably best to pull the pill apart, visually check it, and put it back together. Those B158 pills aren’t fun. Good luck.
hello, eh decided to take the pill apart, desolder and solder again, the blue color is still in force and its temperature is controlled, leaving it on for 5 minutes, it reaches 39 °, is it normal?
If you measured 4.35A at the tail then there doesn’t seem to be a short. Maybe the LED is not soldered well to the MCPCB or the shelf is not flat? You could swap the LED for one of your other ones to see if you get a different result.
I have tried it with an XP-G2 (dedomed) and it does not raise temperature, I have removed the thermal paste for fear that it is too much, it does not give me a good feeling that the LED is supported only by a nut, apart it has a centering ring
If it works fine with a different emitter, I think Jos might be onto something… less-than-optimal reflow. I think this LED has shown that it can be sensitive to the execution of the reflow. I hate saying this though, as that appears to be one of Led4Power’s boards and I know he does good work.