Broken HD2010, 0.41 amps on high?

Hi guys,

I just received my HD2010 from TMart, and it happens to be a little crap. Strobe and SOS are brighter than high, and I only get 0.4A tail cap reading (with KK ICR4000mAh, Sanyo 2600mAh, Panasonic ncr18650A). At first I thought it was my DMM, but it works fine on all my other lights.

I measured throw and got a measly 19kcd. So my question is, how do I convert this into direct drive?

First thing I would check is that the reflector is not shorting on the wiring on the led. This is very common.

I had the same problem with my TMart sourced HD2010, which was a whole bucket of fail.

The reflector was indeed shorting the emitter wires. A layer of electrical tape solved that problem.

The driver was also incapable of higher current, so I replaced it with a Fasttech ‘generic’ 2800mAh driver with two additional stacked chips. It now works great.

The emitter also doesn’t center particularly well since it has a tiny lip on the little black ring that comes with the light. I found it easy to center if you apply firm pressure on the lens while tightening the bezel. This keeps it in place while it’s being tightened down. Otherwise if the reflector turns it tends to spin out of position.

If you think of it as a very nice host that’s easily modded you won’t be so disappointed

The reflector wasn’t shorting the wires, I think the little black centering ring prevented that.
But the stupidest thing just happened…
I took out the reflector to measure current again, the centering ring fell on the floor and my stupid dog pounced on it and ate it up.

So now I don’t have a centering ring, the reflector shorts out the wires and the driver sucks.
I do have electrical tape, but wouldn’t it melt if it’s so close to the emitter?

Ok, no excuses - your dog ate your homework? Oh boy, kapton tape would be better if you have any, but still, that won't help to center it. You may need to order some XML centering plastic pieces if you don't have any. Can't recall what it looks like because some are easy to replace, some not so, depending on the size of the opening.

Also, still measure amps with the reflector out - eliminates any possibility of a short, as long as the wires look good - no cuts, exposed wire, etc.

It won’t melt driven at 0.41A!

But no, at least mine doesn’t melt or get gooey even driven at ~3.2A

Has it Pwm on high?

If you look very close at the driver does it say EAST-092 or EAST-092B? The B version is rubbish and Tmart is aware of the issue.

I have the same problem. Any suggestion for a driver and where to buy?

All good things come to pass… it should show up in a day or so… just how bad do you want it? J)

FastTech seems to have its genuine direct drive East-092 drivers on stock again.

I posted a question about it a week ago but it hasn’t been answered though.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001752/1127405-3v5v-5-mode-led-flashlight-direct-drive-driver-cir

It appears to say EAST-092. You can right click the imagek click copy image url and paste that into the address bar and you can see the full sized picture.
I only bought this to be a simple light, please tell me how to convert this to direct drive please!

For direct drive the emitter needs to be on a copper board or it will fry. So if that is arranged, use your solder iron and clear the driver board from components (or do that in a pan on the stove). Find one or more via's through the board that goes to the +contact plate and connect them with some wire (one via may not be conductance enough to accomodate the 5+ amps that you expect from direct drive), solder the +wire to lthe led to those. I did the same with the -contact ring. Also you can use some copper braid soldered to the top and bottom of the tail spring to improve conductance there. Basically for direct drive you connect the + and - from the battery directly to the led, while removing conductance-bottlenecks underway.

For a bad looking but good working example of a direct drive mod I did, look here.

What is differents of the good and bad drivers?
Two possibilities I see are:
Bad software, for example bad Pwm on high
Or
Bad hardware, for example to low voltage on gate…

Has someone tried to connect + to the FET gate and measured current?