So I got my S2200 today.Installed 3 balance charged Xtar18700’s and it worked fine…for about 8-10 min!I put it on high to light up my garage while I cleaned up in there.After about 8 min. on high the switch turnned red for three sec. then the light shut off.WTF? Pulled the cells and they were all at 4.01 volts.Pulled the 3 Tenergy 2600’s from my TF 3T6 and tried them…nothing.Found that one of the cells had tripped protection.Reset the cell, checked the carrier for a short(all ok) and tried again.No light and the cell tripped again!
do you have any unprotected cells, or another set of protected cells you can try?
Can the protection circuits of the cells take the current being drawn? Cells have the same age?
Seems like more of a battery problem. Recharge your Xtars and measure tailcap current just in case.
I have 3 sets of 3 balanced 18650’s that have always been used together in series.I have tried all three sets and nothing works.They all work ok in my TF 3T6 and TN31 just fine. Using my DVOM to act as the switch(10 amp range) I get a quick dead short then one of the three cells will open circuit to cut the power(as a protection cir. should do)There is no way I am going to put three unprotected 18650’s in series and introduce them into a dead short!Although, that would show where the short is!Just follow the smoke!I think the driver is F’ed up.I have had problems with SF. drivers in there P60 hosts before, I just though the QC on a 140$ light would be better.Guess I was wrong!
Check the driver output wires where they pass through from the driver compartment out to the LED.
Did you measure ohms between the B+ and GND on the contact plate? If that checks OK, but it only shows the dead short after it's powered on, it has to be somewhere on the output side of the driver.
could the switch be malfunctioning?
No.
The switch only connects the rear of the battery carrier to the light body, by design it creates a short circuit that sends current to the driver.
Hey Comfychair, the driver is fried.Left it on for a few sec. with some IMR’s(stupid, I know) and had a burnt electrical smell.I am going to contact SF and see what they want to do, I am hoping they send me a new driver so I don’t have to send the whole light back to HK.
Well that sucks, but at least the fault finally revealed itself. Don't get discouraged. I've heard SF is more awesome about warranty issues & replacement parts than anyone would reasonably expect though I've not needed any service so far, knock wood. Especially on a 'flagship product' like this I doubt they will give you a hard time.
On the slim chance things go horribly wrong with getting it repaired/replaced I'll give you a fair price for it. So, 'don't panic'. :beer:
I may have seen similar things. A set of samsung 18650s work fine for TN31 but do not work for DRY. Maybe the batteries are too old or weak for larger current drawing? Have better batteries to try out? Just a guess.
I’m not paniced, just annoyed.I have had to replace drivers on three SF droppins so far so this dosen’t supprise me that much.My BS terminator still kicked it’s butt with total output, but the tint was very nice while it lasted!Funny thing, I just check the packing slip for customs and SF listed it as a flashlight body!Well, they didn’t have to be THAT truthful with customs!Oh well, I just e-mailed them so wait and see what they want to do.At least I have other lights to play with tonight. 
sales@solarforce-sales.com is the only one I know of, nothing listed specifically for warranty issues at either solarforce.hk or solarforceflashlight-sales.com.
This:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121021214397?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Plus this:
http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-mtg20-mcpcb-cree-mtg2-p0-5000k-6v-led-p-727.html
Plus this:
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1349
Equals a 2000+ OTF lumens torch for about 45 bucks…
Have to use very high amp cells…
I've built a high amp ~52mm reflector MTG2 light and it's downright puny compared to one with a 70mm reflector. No comparison.