I left my BTU shocker flashlight in the car and it got Really hot, and when i took it out it turned on for a few seconds then it would not turn on any more, what do you think went wrong ? how can i fix this? it is not the batteries . thanks
define really hot because a car should not be enough to damage anything in there except the batteries, the LEDs can take over 150ºC (300F)
i could hold it but it was very uncomfortable to do so, im in florida so it can get pretty hot… it was in the trunk tho.
Let it cool off
MSDS on Li Ion batteries
http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg4/cg432/docs/msds/MSDS_LiIon.pdf
If I assume, you have replaced the batteries and it still does not work, then there several problems that it could be. Could be the driver is bad, the wires or even possibly the switch, depending on the sustained temperatures.
If different batteries do not bring it to life, then it's time to take it apart and start testing everything.
“could hold but very uncomfortable to do so” - that’s what only in the region of 60-70c? I’m thinking about a hot cup of coffee
well a flashlight is only a few basic components, LED, circuitry, body and switch, so if its not hte batteries your problem would lie in one of these, its unlikely the LED or body so switch or circuitry
you can test the body, led and switch with a multimeter
My best guess would be the driver (bad cap?) and 2nd would be the switch.
alright well im not so sure how to test it , and not sure how to take it apart either, any idea where i could take it? maybe i could even send it to someone? also how much are drivers or switches?
Tom E does BTU shocker mods, maybe PM him?
ok ill try that, also i bought the light from RMM maybe i can get him to fix it for me, i pay for parts and ship…
Send it to Richard. Did you get the BLFDD/Zener driver in your light? If not, it sounds like a great opportunity to have that installed.
His light is stock, with the original DRY driver. My guess is that it's the batteries...it shouldn't have gotten hot enough in the trunk to damage any electronics.
i am curious how he eliminated the batteries as the culprit as he says he did, sometimes i think i have eliminated things and they came back to bite me in the rear end (no pun intended)
to eliminate the batteries i did 2 tests, one was testing all the batteries that were in the light in a laser , and the laser worked for all of them . the next was 3 other batteries that worked in other lights but not the BTU.
Do you have a multimeter, you can test resistance in the switch, and if it has diode test mode you can test the LEDs individually, and check if all the wiring is intact from the driver to the LEDs.
You can also bypass the switch with a paperclip or wires, but for a multiple battery light i would request someone else confirm if this is a good idea to try or not.
Whats the voltage on the batteries, will the light not work on low battery charge or high internal resistance batteries?
Removing the tailcap, you can find a current draw?
If there is, then it is possible to hypothesize where and what the current is stopped.
i dont have any equipment i could test it with unfortunately and they are 18650 batteries
Does one of those free harbour freight multimeters have resistance and diode testing?
Of course, you don't think HF would offer junk, do you?