Is there a way of removing tiny rust spots on a few of my budget knives without ruining or scratching the blade? I've done the internet research but maybe you know, through experience, what works best. I started going thru my budget knife collection that has been sitting in a box for about almost 2 years and noticed rust spots mostly right around the thumbstud. WD-40 and 3-in-one oil and elbow grease helped a little. The rust spots are tiny but I want the knives to look as close to new as possible so I can sell them locally.
I’ve heard of people doing very fine sanding and using polishing paste(also how you get a mirror finish), but no personal experience.
I will say as a preventative measure, all my knives are coated with Marine Tuf-Cloth except for my Spyderco Salts which I absolutely love :heart_eyes:
Always had sweaty hands
These are all great suggestions. Without knowing more about the metal surfaces, its hard to recommend a do-all method of restoration. Most are always by trial and error and with varying results. Once metal or a finish is missing, there is no way of magically returning it. But you can camouflage and blend it. Id probably try a pencil eraser first, followed by a very vigorous polishing with mothers mag polish. If that didnt work, Id give it a vigorous scrubbing with tomato ketchup. Many automotive/machine shops and gunsmiths often have large capacity ultrasonic cleaners that work very well at removing oxidation (along with many finish coatings that might be on the part), but the work must be devoid of any oily substances to work best. Of course you’d want to remove the handles before any type of immersion cleaning. All methods are hit and miss, depending on the materials, the existing damage to them, the effectiveness of the restoration method and the person performing it. Its also possible to further damage the part and this can sometimes be done quite quickly.
Of the effective methods I have personally used, and from my suggestions on other forums for general parts restorations -
In a quasi-ascending order of aggressiveness:
Ultrasonic cleaner with 50/50 water and white vinegar. Preheat mixture to 180 F or above. Rotate part 90 degrees at every 25% of duty cycle. Rinse well in very hot water and dry with towel.
Electrolysis cleaning. Water bath should be as pure as possible with clean fresh anodes. ph balanced Deionized or distilled is preferred.
Evaporust but only works well with ferrous metals. Also prevents flash rusting long enough to treat the metal with an antioxidant. Cheapest place to buy is at harbor freight around $20/gal
Mothers mag polish and some elbow grease. (walmart and most places you buy automotive supplies) This stuff doesnt only cut heavy oxidation, rust and most other grime, it does a darn good job as a protective sealer. Also the most used product amongst big dollar hot rodders (think +100k chrome/AL customs). Used by specialists that restore non ferrous metals. Also works with ferrous metals but takes more effort.
pencil eraser
overnight soak in diesel, jet-A or kerosene followed by other methods… usually eraser then 0000 steel wool
vinegar soak while scrubbing with a toothbrush, bronze or stainless steel brush, probably no longer than 5 min max soak.
polish - everyones got an opinion but mothers mag polish seems to have the general consensus amongst enthusiasts for polishing non ferrous metals.
vibratory media polisher. Often used to clean and polish spent ammo cartridges, gems and jewelry.
soak in coka-cola
tomato ketchup as a polish (contains acid)
Berryman Chem-Dip Carberatour Cleaner (strips gunk, deposits and oxidation)
fine rubbing compound
0000 steel wool
000 steel wool
high speed bench mounted buffing wheel + compound followed by mothers mag polish
citric acid/water soak 20% (available in 1-5lb sacks for a few $ at any beer brewing supplies store)
hydrochloric acid (the works toilet cleaner at walmart and other stores) diluted to 15% and applied with a soft toothbrush only in the affected areas. Allow the acid to work for 5 seconds then scrub the area for another 5 then immediately put the part under hot running water. Examine and repeat as necessary.
hydrochloric acid diluted to 7-10% then fully immerse part for no more than 1 minute. Turn the part and scrub the effected areas with a toothbrush then immediately put the part under hot running water. Examine and repeat as necessary.
Acid can be very aggressive. You should always use a face shield, full length rubber apron and full length rubber gloves. Use only outdoors. The higher the acid concentration, the more aggressive it becomes. The warmer the acid solution, the more aggressive it becomes.
wow, that’s a very complete guide! That should probably be stickied, this comes up every couple of months.
But, since I hate rust, I mean really really hate it, I’ll add one other option
a tumbler, is an option that I use often. Someday I’ll build a rotating 55 gallon tumbler
I purchased mine for tumbling brass catridge casings in walnut media, but have since purchased several grades of heavy duty media, and I occassionally use blasting media in it (20/40 grit or sand)
it can remove some rust, and the ceramic media can give metal an interesting finish (though don’t expect it to help with any serious pitting…)
Don’t know if it would be good for knives, but the car and bike restorers here swear by molasses.
They’ll drop a part into molasses and water and leave it for a few weeks.
Apparently after that even decades old seized motors will turn.
I haven’t tried it myself though.
I hope you find one that works for you. I use to be a partner & production manager in a metal finishing company and achieved the illusive ISO 9001 certification.
A new hobby has been taking up a lot of my time. I restore and sell antique liquid fuel pressure lanterns, so Ive listed all the methods that have worked for me during parts restorations of all types. Here’s an old clip of my partial Coleman 237 collection. Each 237 powers a single huge mantle and it rated at 500c.p. They are usually completely black and heavily coked up with carbon when I get them after decades of hard service.
I know someone that restores antique tractors, and he also swears by molasses for removing rust from thick heavy pieces of cast iron and steel. I just introduced him to electrolysis for paint and rust removal, so Im not sure which one he prefers yet.
That definitely should be Frontpage’d and Sticky’d just like dthrckt mentioned.