I want a pocket thrower with 10,000meter throw, that runs on a single 10140, with a runtime on turbo of like 8 months, >90 CRI..and charges wirelessly...also it's gotta be less than $7
High CRI requires the phosphor to absorb more of the blue light emitted by the LED and use it to emit the rest of the spectrum. This absorption and re-emission is always going to result in efficiency losses. That’s why cool white emitters have the highest output - more of the blue light passes through without being absorbed.
So high CRI is never going to be very efficient compared to low-CRI emitters. Then most of the budget soda can lights are going to be pairing the already inefficient emitters with a FET driver that always drives the LEDs at 100% (lower modes are achieved by reducing the duty cycle, so 50% is achieved by running at 100% for 50% of the time), where they are at their worst efficiency. Better efficiency would require a quality Buck or Boost driver, but then you are looking at the premium brands like the Acebeam X50.
That makes sense, when explained like that, thank you.
Between the high CRI leds, are there some better options than others?
I’m asking because I was looking at Emisar D18, and you have quite a few led options to choose from.
The 219b 4500k will give you a high cri but probably a bit below 10 000 lumen output. There is whispers in the corridors that Hank is stocking up on 519a(was it A?). Those should be high CRI but almost double as efficient, or at least being able to produce double the peak intensity.
The Samsung lh351d is very popular, could give you a 10 000 + light indeed, if they fit under the quite special optics, I’m not sure about that. I have been figuring if I would have ordered the outer circle in lh351d where each other is a different k, 2700k then 5000k and so on, and the inner circle filled with W1. With endless combinations, there is also a mental blockage I’ll wait a bit longer….
Thanks Lumen9000, you were touching the points I was interested in. @Yokiamy: I happen to have the SP36BLF and the Q8, which I both love; but they seem to me more on the thrower side. Having now quite a few different thrower with different leds of different tints and different powers, I’m now looking at flooders.
For example, we had a stormy weather here in the UK over the past days. During the night, wanting to observe the storm, to see how the trees are bent by the wind, a thrower is not ideal.
I had my MF01S for that, gave me a good wide beam.
Then the dopamine kicks in, the molecule of more: where can I go from there, what’s gonna work better?
As I mentioned, my Astrolux mf01s is close to perfect, I love so many things about it.
Ideally it should have the same power with a higher CRI; it could have a USB port.
And then I saw a comparison video between MF01S and emisar D18, with the D18 remaining marginally cooler than the Astrolux.
And so the question arose, what would make a better MF01S?
I’ll wait a bit longer….