CANOE Lighting Help

Riverracer23 · 2018-03-07T10:49:31.000Z

Greetings,

I’ll be paddling in June in the Texas Water Safari which is a 260 mile canoe race. Paddling through the night will take place over several nights.

I’m working on a custom setup specifically for this race which I’ll go into more detail later but wanted to get a discussion going for help since I’m not an electrical guy. I can build/make about anything, but I’m an idiot when it comes to electronics.

The platform will use 20mm optics. One for throw that will stay on, and one flood that will be switched so I can turn it on and off as needed from my seat.

I’ll add pics when I figure that out.

The electronics, etc were purchased quite awhile ago so I’m not sure what upgrades I might benefit from today. Here is what I want to use and maybe you can advise leds and drivers.

I plan to run off 6 volts, and currently have packs made up that use 12 AA batteries. I’ll train using regular AA’s but during the race will use the energizer lithium AA’s.

One pack needs to last for a whole night of paddling so the spot would stay on all night (medium output) and the flood that is switched needs to be high output. Figure about 2 hours of runtime on high.

Suggestions and help welcomed.

Thanks

Riverracer23 · 2018-03-07T11:25:39.000Z

Pic test

Vegas_LED_Fan · 2018-03-07T16:11:58.000Z

There’s a simple LED controller with an RF keypad that sells for around $2 postpaid from overseas vendors that you could wire in series between the batteries and light that would not only allow you to turn on the light but dim it if desired. I used these for my DIY bike lights and even for controlling LED house lights as a simple dimmer. Working voltage is 5V to 24V, 12A maximum current.

with CCTV power cord ends $2.01 postpaid: https://www.ebay.com/itm/RF-Wire-11Key-Remote-Controller-Mini-Dimmer-Single-Color-LED-Strip-XG/272593311472?hash=item3f77d3d6f0:g:mewAAOSwu4BVpmd5

or with bare wire ends $2 postpaid: H1 RF Wireless Controller Mini Dimmer for LED Single Color Strip Light for sale online | eBay You could attach a lanyard to the controller and hang it around your neck for easy access.

djmcconn · 2018-03-07T16:28:26.000Z

That is some nice metalwork

sac02 · 2018-03-07T17:17:13.000Z

Cool project. Do you have a specific question, or are you just looking for input?

If you are aware of 20mm optics, I’m guessing you know that they come in clear, frosted, small spot, med, wide flood, and elliptical. I use a DIY sopt+elliptical 20mm optic combo for bike commuting and recommend it, I might think that it would be similar for your application.

One piece of info that I think is missing is how much light you want/need. How many lumens, or how much throw do you want? What is “Low” and “High” that you mention? This will be critical in determining if you can run all night on one set of batteries.

What kind of controller or driver do you plan to use?

Another question I have is - do you really need light at all times? Your human night vision is pretty good if you are able to let it adapt. But if you are going to be hit with artificial light from other racers or from the racecourse, then obviously this won’t work

Riverracer23 · 2018-03-07T17:17:42.000Z

This item has me really intrigued. The light will be way up on the bow and my boat is 19.5 feet long so having a remote switch has advantages but also has disadvantages.

Question about the led controller: Does that mean no other driver is necessary and what are the different outputs from low, medium, and high? I don’t see that on the listing. I’ll reiterate that I’m clueless with electronics which is why I’ll probably ask several dumb questions that are obvious to others. Thanks

Paul321 · 2018-03-07T17:27:15.000Z

Those housings look the bomb! Very nice work, you may end up with a lot contract work from the BLF.
A 260 mile canoe race sounds like a lot of fun.

Your application is similar to bicycle lighting expect for the immersion potential of being in a canoe.
This link is to the Mountain Bike Review forum Lights for bicycle lights, there is a DIY forum.

I suggest to obtain a bicycle light tear it down and fit the internals into your housings. Or just go with this BT40S.

Another quick easy way would be use the BLF Q8 with spare lithium 18650’s stowed is a sealed box. The Q8 has a tripod mount 1/4-20 thread, easily mounted.

I understand the AA idea too, you can re-supply during the race real easy I imagine.

Good Luck!

sac02 · 2018-03-07T17:44:03.000Z

I’m guessing weight is an issue also. The Q8 has a lot of heavy copper in it that is necessary for high (6000Lm) output, but is unnecessary (and even detrimental) to the performance of a race vehicle.

Paul321 · 2018-03-07T17:49:42.000Z

sac02:

I’m guessing weight is an issue also. The Q8 has a lot of heavy copper in it that is necessary for high (6000Lm) output, but is unnecessary (and even detrimental) to the performance of a race vehicle.

Oh yeah I didn’t think of that, I have to say that the canoe certainly looks fast.

Riverracer23 · 2018-03-07T17:51:29.000Z

I currently have clear optics that are 15 and 30 degree. I would like the 15 to stay on constantly at a lower output and be able to turn on and off the 30 at a bright level.

I’ve got a maglite conversion that works incredibly well with the reflector but it’s big and heavy. It measures 325 lumens out the front. Malkoff 3-6 D cell drop in.

Your questions are why I posted because I’ll get considerations and suggestions I won’t think of. The first night I’ll definitely want a light on all the time as there are many obstacles and a winding river. That begins to change after the first night and then I might turn to moving towards only the on/off light. I’ll have a headlamp on too in order to sweep light back and forth as needed without turning the boat.

I was thinking drivers as follows: 350ma for the on all the time light and 700ma –1000ma for the on/off light. I don’t even need to use 6 volt packs but those are what were built for my Mag head. The Mag setup is ready to go, but I’m wanting to make something smaller, lighter, and with more options.

I’m open to any/all suggestions. I have to take all my items with me during the race, so the fewer/longer lasting my battery packs are the better. I could potentially be paddling for 4 nights during the race, but I’m hoping for only 3. Output vs run time are going to be key.

Riverracer23 · 2018-03-07T19:06:31.000Z

One of my goals has been to complete the Safari in a boat that I made, so this is the year to see if that’s possible. I’ve completed the race before but it was 17 years ago. I’ve thought about purchasing a light, but since I constructed the boat, I also want to build my own light setup.

Thank you very much for your help with this as it’s the only major task left other than training for me to complete. My backup is the Maglite conversion, but I’d prefer my current build option. I’ll have a bungee chord holding the arm up so that if I hit something it will go backwards and then pop back up.

I should have stated at the beginning of this thread what I know I want to use and then a list of questions for suggestions.

What I do plan on using:

20mm optics- 15 degree to be on most of the time (not overpowering for efficiency)
30 degree to be switched on when more light is needed (very bright-intermittent use)
AA batteries-can be any voltage configuration, but I prefer to run both lights off the same pack (one pack per night)
I would need to get about 8-9 hours constant burn from the lower powered light and 1-2 hours bright during that 8-9 hours with the second light.

Questions:

What driver and led do you recommend for the 15 degree optic?
What driver and led do you recommend for the 30 degree optic?
What voltage do you recommend I run?
Is it possible to get 8-9 hours of burn with what I suggest?

2_DOGS · 2018-03-07T19:23:14.000Z

I’ve never been in a canoe at night but in other boats my problem has been light reflecting back at me off the bow.
If you could mount a bike light under the bow with a power pack you can reach it may do the job.
YMMV

SoCalTiger · 2018-03-07T20:04:34.000Z

In the past, some people have raised a possible safety concern about use of lithium primaries (like the Energizer lithiums that you referenced) and their ability to handle heat in a high-drain situation or under an extended period of load.

I’d recommend considering switching to Eneloop NiMH batteries both for training and the actual event. NiMH batteries have an advantage over alkaline in that the voltage output is much more consistent whereas you’ll find the output of your alkalines getting lower and lower throughout the night.

For NiMH, you could go with the 500 cycle batteries which have roughly a 20% higher capacity if that additional capacity is needed. Roughly 2500mAh vs 2000mAh.