A one for one swap of lithium ion rechargeable cells(3.7v) for nimhs(1.2v) will probably cook whatever you put them in. One 3.7v cell for three 1.2v cells is ok. Lithium primaries(non rechargeable) are about the same voltages as alkalines and might give you the shelf life you want. To stay with rechargeable cells of a similar working voltage get LSD (low self discharge) nimhs. You will end up charging these more frequently than you change alkalines but you won’t need new cells very often.
The protection circuit board cuts off the power when
- voltage drops below 2.75 Volts
- discharge current exceeds 2 Ampères
- charging current exceeds 500mA (my guess, could be 1A like the 14500 PCBs, IIRC)
charging voltage exceeds 4.25 Volts.
For storage keep them around 3.7 Volts, in the fridge maybe best.
You could use them in place of 3x AAA in series.
You could probably get away with it in 2 x AA / AAA remotes.
But at my supermarket a 8 pack of alkaline AAA’s is somewhere around €2.—
That’s a couple years of zapping commercials!
Says 1.5 there. Reading on the batteries here the sticker says “1.5V [some chinese signs] 3.7V”
I don’t know what to make of it. Will they fry my bar end lights? I bought them because of the 1.5V thing. I’m a newbie…
Dagnabit! What the heck have I gotten myself into? I got two weird-ass Kentli batteries that I can’t charge, an expensive LCD-bling-bling charger with no batteries to use it on and two bar-end lights running 1.5V LEDs. Feel free to gloat and add derogatory jokes; I’m already down
It’s currently the best chemistry for rechargable batteries.
Just so happens to be 3.7 Volts average per cell.
Only to be used between 2.5 and 4.3 Volts, or between 3.0 and 4.1 for longer life of the cell.
Step 1: Don’t order anything else :bigsmile:
Step2: Don’t be too down. We can help you make use good of the nice Xtar VP1 charger.
What bike lights do you have?
We use them in some aaa sized flashlights that are known to tolerate li-ion 10440 3.7v. Its best if the light has “modes” like low, medium, high because all of the levels get much brighter on li-ion. High with a li-ion heats up the little light a lot so it can only be used for a short intervals. High gives a great “wow” factor.
Li-ion 10440 is also used for some electronic cigarettes.
Now that you have that cool charger, well have to initiate you into the un-dark side. Time to get a couple of 18650s and a nice starter light to get you hooked.
Were here to help you make sound decisions and not get ripped off.
My other lights have built-in USB-charged lithium or they came with packs of 18650s. But here are the bar-ends I’m trying to power up!
They do have a blinking mode. What would kill them? Gradual heat build-up or would some circuitry fry instantly? (Heat shouldn’t be much of a problem since we never experience temperatures above –30C here in Sweden. When the competition nerds used liquid nitrogen to over-clock their Pentiums back in the days we would just open a window and spank them with an old 486DX2 and a regular office fan.)
Cold might be a problem for batteries though…
I don’t think any battery in a bike handlebar-end, out there with –30°C (that’s near 0°F isn’t it??) ambient temperature will do too much…
If I were to conjure up some springs to connect the outer rings of the Kentli batteries to a charger, then what charger could I use? I learned today that 1.5V lithium isn’t exactly industry standard.
Sorry for that. I wouldn’t be cycling in below-zero temps anyways.
Let’s go with a standard 20C (=68F) here. Assuming the lights are on half the time when blinking - would a 3V battery then heat the lights exactly as much as a 1.5V battery on steady? Sounds dubious at best to me, but I simply don’t know these things.