I was getting so frustrated about what battery chemistry I should be buying, especially for this new SC600Fd, that I did up an infographic to help me. I want to match the popular batteries listed to their chemistries but getting so little information from the web. Maybe some of you guys have the answers. What do you think?
Your three 2-headed arrows show a transition from red to green without any intervening yellow
Your key on the right side shows a clear butter-yellow for the INR/NMC
I figure you mean that group should go in the middle
But the chemistry isn’t a smooth mix, it’s distinct separate configurations.
Maybe you want to shade the reds to show there’s some variation within that chemistry?
Because we know a lot of other factors matter — what plastic membrane, how thick, how prepared; whether the metal scraps were routinely and carefully cleaned out of the metal tubes before the chemicals went in; whether the liquid reactants were recycled or fresh — all the mystery of cell production makes a difference too. A key for “trustworthiness of manufacturer” matters.
There is quite a bit of misinformation concerning batteries and their chemistry. I posted a link yesterday explaining the IMR batteries are being misrepresented by some people.
Thanks for your feedback, Hank. Will update the arrows. I did think about shading the blocks on the right but wanted to keep it as simple as I could. It's a work in progress. LOL.
Yes, Sidecross, agreed. That's why I decided to make this infographic. So much confusion about chemistries, amp ratings, rewraps, protected vs non-protected, fakes, and oem manufacturers. If I have to learn all this then you bet your ass I'm going to compile it into an infographic to help others. I really would like to put the batteries in their proper place but their chemistries aren't easily found. We'll get there.
+1
Thank you! 
Also worth remembering — what’s on the shrinkwrap isn’t necessarily an accurate description of what’s inside the shrinkwrap.
It will probably be a few years yet before the problems with authenticity and verifiability are solved.
“Chain of custody” from raw material to end user — aka “provenance” — is needed to know what’s likely good and what’s dubious.
+1
As it stands now we consummers of batteries are an ‘easy touch’ by sellers. We have no way of knowing what grade of battery we are purchasing.
People were buying the Sony US18650VTC6 3000mAh at high prices when information from two differnt suppliers had opposite views on selling the battery.
We need an independent evaluation of batteries sold to consumers.
Second version. What do you think?
I do not know if major manufacturers of batteries sell to the ‘public’ or only to secondary wholesalers?
How do the big manufacturers outsource or distribute their battery products?
Second version is much better! the first one was a shot gun approach.
Err, I think this gives a bad name so-to-speak to the most popular batteries on this forum, that have proved quite “safe” (as much as any Li-ion is). Like GA’s, 30Q’s HG2’s, Etc. Also, what is the context of your “amps” column? Just their rated discharge rates (more useful to vapers), or what they would actually give in a light (more useful to BLF)? The “INR” category is such a wide spectrum of mixes that I find it hard to categorically rate on this simple of a level.
I don’t mean to criticize, I just think you may have attempted the impossible: to simplify the inherently complex.
The first version was an attempt to match popular batteries with their categories. Unfortunately, the chemistries are usually not provided by manufacturers so I gave up and moved on.
Yes, sadly manufacturers have a ‘black out’ of easy to find information.
We sometimes forget that battery technology today is very dynamic and the manufacturing of it is surrounded in proprietary trade secrets.
The market seems off the radar.
It's an infographic to help people understand the complicated fabric of today's lithium-ion chemistries, as it pertains to flashaholics. Yes, INR is a wide spectrum. I didn't even touch on Panasonic's NNP technology, which I am admittedly unfamiliar with. Safe is a relative term, but in terms of volatily I will take a hybrid IMR over ICR or INR any day. It's not giving a bad name to GAs or 30Qs or any other batteries or their manufacturers. In fact, I'm about to order two 30Qs from Orbtronic. The Amps colums is for flashlight purposes. Most power lights these days need more amps, like what the 30Q can deliver. Yes, I am attempting to simplify the complex. For people who are new to flashlights, or vaping, I'm sure they would find use for this information.
I think you should remove the safety arrow, all Lithium batteries are safe until you push it beyond specifications. Some chemistries are more tolerant than others but most of the time depends on the handling. It is actually pretty difficult to vent a high quality 18650 and even harder to make it explode.
I am hearing opinions that are saying that like flashlights battery chemistries have changed. What was once thought to be a problem of some chemistries have been reduced.
Obtaining verified information from manufacturers is at a minimum.
Well, I think removing the safety arrow would be a disservice to people who are looking to learn about lithium-ion chemistries. How can you say all lithium batteries are safe? Go to Battery University and have a gander at the safety bit of their "web" charts. It's there for a reason. A Ford Mustang is a safe car until you crash in it. Personally, I'd rather be in a Volvo if I was in a crash. The safety arrow is there for when things go wrong with the battery. People want to know the volatility of the chemistry if things hit the fan. Yes, it IS difficult to vent a high-quality lithium-ion battery. However, maybe the person buys cheap Chinese crap thinking it's a quality battery and now he has melted lungs. THAT is why I spent the time making this infographic.
Aren’t Sanyo’s also classified under trusted OEMs?
I tend to go for the LG’s when it comes to high drains simply because they can be hunted down at pretty low prices when compared with the Sonys. I didn’t know that the Sonys were actually considered to be safer though. I wonder if it also translates to better performance characteristics.
Sanyos ‘are’ trusted, but they are now owned by Panasonic, so… covered!