Does anyone know how to change 5 modes to 3(low,med,high)? I’d like to get rid of the blinky modes.
The only way you could do that would be by switching out the driver, which requires soldering.
So it’s either a new driver or new drop in. I was hoping for a mod on the existing driver. Thanks for the info!
17 mm single mode driver 17mm:
- Color: Green + golden
- Material: PCB
- Built-in 3 7135IC
- Current: 1050mA
- Voltage: DC 3~4.5V
- Single mode
- Diameter: 17mm
- Thickness: 1.5mm
- Great for DIY project or repair your flashlight
That looks like a good option.
thanks Flo!
What led are you driving? Because 1a for the work of a driver swap really doesn’t cut it for me.
If you can fit a p60 pill, buy pill, fit in light, done…
If your doing a driver swap, my motto is get the most on high, it has at leader one other mode for day to day use.
1a is under driving even an xp-e, never mind any other emitter.
Gords is right. With the drop-in, I first suggested, you are getting a high-output U2 and a driver, and a pill, and a reflector. Yes, 1a is nothng anymore…actually you can buy a new torch with a U2 for cheap.
Not exactly… that driver is only a single mode. It also under-drives the XML at ~1A, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing depending on how much light and run time the OP is willing to live with. The OP wants L-M-H and no disco though. I use the illumination supply boards, he is local to me though so its easy and convenient though. Ground star 3 to get a 3-mode.
That is a nicer board.
There’s little point recommending a board till we know the emitter.
As an example :-
http://www.intl-outdoor.com/amc71353-5mode-circuit-board-nanjg-ak47a-p-304.html
http://www.intl-outdoor.com/amc71354-5mode-circuit-board-nanjg-101aka1-p-254.html
http://www.intl-outdoor.com/components-drivers-c-57_88.html?sort=3a&page=1
http://www.intl-outdoor.com/amc71356-5mode-circuit-board-nanjg-105c-p-536.html
http://www.intl-outdoor.com/amc71358-1mode-circuit-board-nanjg-105c-p-643.html
http://www.intl-outdoor.com/amc71358-1mode-circuit-board-nanjg-105c-p-643.html
They are basically 1a, 1.4a, 2.1a, 2.8a, 2.8a and my personal favorite for driving an xm-l, provided there is space and good heat sinking
http://www.intl-outdoor.com/4a-3mode-2745v-circuit-board-p-546.html
All can be 3 mode, the last, has a much better ramping option, along with various blinkies and one mode, but will not fit a p60 pill.
So the question is what emitter? What light? Custom pill? How much does the op want to spend? What are they capable of?
You can’t really recommend anything till all these questions are answered.
Plus, is the op using 1 18650 or 2 cr123? If its the latter, you can’t use a nanjg, voltage is too high…
100% Brand New
Output bright can come to above 1000 lumens
Internal wiring applies the high efficient booster circuit, working voltage is wide and can utilize the batteries in the largest extent.
Waterproofing design
Aluminum alloy casing
Aluminum alloy reflector
5 switch Mode: Strong Brightness / Normal Brightness / Low / Strobe / SOS
Model of Battery required: 1 x 18650 3.7v Battery
Model of LED: CREE T6(XM-L) LED 1000Lm
Color : Black
External Dimension : 137mm x 32mm/25mm
Weight : 108g
I think so, and I’m not just saying that because Craig is a good guy and flashaholic friend. His 7135 ICs are selected for current BIN, and I KNOW the lower output modes do not suffer from visible PWM flashing. So you know exactly what you are getting. His boards also come with the +/- LED wires pre-soldered… major pain alleviated IMHO.
Erik (fellow BLFer) also sells good 7135 drivers, that are comparable quality to the illumination supply boards. Luke you might want to look him up.
Luke, your in the US, buy the one Kramer linked and either solder or get someone to teach you.
Use a max 40w iron, jobs done, that board is the right one for you.
A little info goes a long way. 
If you are ordereing from illumination supply though, get a t6-nw (3c etc) as well and if they do a bare p60 pill, get that too, then you have assembled a complete unit, know what goes into it and have tried a different tint. Plus if it goes tits up, you still have a functional light in the mean time.
Thanks for all the help. I can solder so it should turn out ok.
Nice one buddy, glad we could help, let us know how it goes. :bigsmile: