EDIT: SOUND CARD AND HDD are all that's left as of post#11

I have some items that someone might want. They are PC components from an older system. I recently went to 8.1 and I had to buy a new PC for my wife, so if anyone has a use for this stuff, it's all good, just not needed any more by me. You would have to pay for shipping and depending on what you want, it would vary. Probably easiest for me, if you post here what you are interested in and then I can figure the shipping. Post here and PM me? If that works for y'all.

I would normally toss this stuff, but I just thought if any BLF member wanted it or needed it, I would ask before it goes to the circular file.



An MCP6P M2+ mother board with 2gig of memory (pc6400) and an Athlon 64x2 processor


close-up of processor. I will put a fresh layer of arctic silver paste on it, when it goes out. ** Motherboard, Processor and Memory go out as ONE. I will not break them up, not worth the time to mess with it.**


Turtle beach santa cruz sound card. PCI



I believe it's an 8400 GS video card, made for HP. PCIE 16x


WD400 hard drive IDE



This is a case for using a laptop drive as a portable USB drive. It has a metal case and the cable, with a cover and instructions. You supply the HDD. 2.5" I believe...



Those parts are good for most. Im guessing sold within 30 minutes.

I have the same CPU, but slower, so I'd be interested in that. Maybe the sound card too. Apparently there's a way to turn a sound card into an oscilloscope, which I hadn't considered since I haven't had a standalone sound card in probably a decade.

Like I said in the OP, the CPU, Motherboard and Memory all go as one. If that’s what you want, then I can figure shipping on that and the sound card too. Probably “about” $10 priority, as I will have to pad it fairly well.

That's fine. Let's see if someone else needs it. I'll take a minor speed bump, but it's not a big deal if I stick with my CPU.

I’d be interested in the Mobo-CPU-RAM, and the video card and the usb-hard-drive case! I just don’t need the sound card or the hard drive, although WD is a good brand of hard drives.

Take apart the hard drive, there are some REALLY cool M-Discs inside that can be used for a really sweet flashlight stand.

I use a USB sound card on my laptop (so I didnt risk the laptop’s input) but it works ok.

Good to hear you're already using it. I'll give that a go.

DavidEF can take the other stuff.


OK, MOBO/CPU/RAM, VIDEO CARD and the USB HDD case is yours. I will PM you when I can figure out the shipping. It won’t be toady, the plumbers are here, so I got to go and then go to work. Tomorrow morning.


Have any idea how to use a photocell with that software and the mic port to measure and plot light output over time? That’s what I want to do but I haven’t found any information yet on how to do it properly.


If you can build a PWM circuit that takes a photocell as a potentiometer that controls the output, you could input that into the mic jack and not have to change the software at all. Some initial calculations would need to be done to determine how the waveform shown in the program represents the light level coming into the photocell. There may be a more elegant solution, but that is what I just thought of off the top of my head.

I wouldn’t give the HDD away unless you are positively certain that there is no confidential info in them, you know that someone with the right software might recover the info contained in there, why don’t you use it as a second drive to contain the windows page file? or backup?

I have a similar system that I kept for use as a home theater PC. You really don’t need more than a dual-core system to play HD video. Mine has a $30 video which plays 1920 x 1080 video fine. It’s a sweet setup for an old dinosaur PC.

So sometimes those old machines can be re-purposed.

As far as I know, formatting and then removing the partition, removes all data from the drive. No?

Formatting the drive doesn’t necessarily mean that the data is gone. And a quick format most definitely does not erase the data. Also, deleting the partition does not remove any data.

If you want to know for sure it’s gone, use a third party utility that actually erases the drive byte-by-byte, sector-by-sector. Some apps will even overwrite each byte several times with a different “pattern” value, because in some cases it might be possible to recover data even after it’s properly erased.

A good clue on how effective your erasure is by how long it takes. To erase a drive, a software application has to write every sector on the drive, and to do that takes a long time on large capacity drives because there’s just so many dang sectors. It should take about as long to erase a drive as it does to fill it with data. Anything where you press a button and it says “done” a minute later is only overwriting a few sectors—the data could still be recovered.

Think of the partition and directory information as maps to your data. If you delete the maps, the drive appears to the operating system to be empty, and that’s good enough most of the time. The drive functions the same. As you put data on the drive, the “maps” are rebuilt for your new data, and the old data is overwritten one file at a time.

Which also means 10 years after you format it, some data from the old format could still be there. The recovery tools and procedures are very sophisticated. It may not be what you want to hear, but if you even have a little sensitive or private data on there, I wouldn’t part with it other than to toss it or destroy it.

In the old days (80’s and early 90’s), formatting the drive erased it completely. It pretty much had to because hard drives weren’t as reliable and the format had to check for bad sectors and take them out of the pool. But as time went by, drives became larger and more robust, and nobody wanted to wait 2 hours for the drive to format. And now it’s probably the least of your privacy concerns. Your private data is more likely to be scraped off your Internet connection than your physical drive.

The best way to keep your data private is to encrypt the whole damn drive with something open source like TrueCrypt. Once the power goes of and the drive un-mounts, the thing is a brick without the password. Make sure to use older versions of the software as it’s probably been compromised as of a few weeks ago by some TLA (three letter agency) but the older versions should be fine.

It’s a hassle typing your password for every drive every time your system reboots, but once the power goes off, you know it’s secure. Of course there’s lots of ways to compel people to cough up the password :wink: