Have a Crelant V9CS that acts strange in the cold. I keep this light in my work truck and have noticed that during the real cold weather it will not come on. I can swap batteries and so forth but until it warms a little it does not work. The other night I put it on the dash defrost vent and it came on after 15-30 seconds of heat on it. I left my T2 in the truck to test and it clicked right on. Anybody know what might be the cause .
Bought from MD-Lighthouse so it could be that it is a southern model and not made for the cold.LOL
When you swapped cells did you use warm cells or other cold cells? I wouldn’t think it would be the low voltage cutoff but it’s worth checking. It’s as simple as popping the light in the freezer to cool down and keeping the cell at room temp.
Thermal contraction might be behind it. As the light cools, with different materials involved a loose/marginal connection may be broken. Possibly even a joint effect with contraction producing a smaller surface contact area somewhere which increases resistance and aids the low voltage cutoff kicking in. The typical budget light check of switch tightness and contacts might locate something that is loose enough contraction breaks the circuit.
Obviously something’s contracting in the cold that’s keeping it from completing its circuit. The most common thing is the tailcap. When its cold and refuses to work, remove the tailcap and try bridging the negative end of the battery and the edge of the tube. If it comes on , it’s the tailcap. Ninety nine percent of the time it’s the retaining ring in the tailcap. If it is even a tiny bit loose, the cold will contract it enough so the circuit is incomplete. Try tightening it with needle nose pliars or a pair of tweezers. (…some retaining rings tighten counter clockwise).
Let us know if this does, or doesn’t solve the problem.
You could tighten it up at home, and throw it in the freezer to check.
Try to push (even strike) white plastic covering the driver (in head from side of plus battery).
White plastic disc is pressed only “minus” driver to body flashlight. No threads or other connections “-” is not there. This is a bug.
Thanks for the help all I will do a check of theses things.
The new cell I put in was warmer. The first time it happened changing batteries a couple times it flickered so yes probably not getting contact. I am going to check tightness on everything later and do a freezer test. Thanks again.
I have done some testing and it seems to be at the positive end. The spring is kind of bent and if I move it around i can make it work and not work. Thing is I can see a wire coming out of the middle on bottom of driver through the plastic and appears to be bent at a 90 degree angle. I do not know if this for the spring to contact on or if it is part of the spring.
Not for sure how emitter and pill come out or if this plastic piece that holds positive spring can be removed to possibly adjust positive lead for better connection with spring.
It’s wierd, when I first got my 7g5v2, I just used to be able to shake it like a shake weight and it would change modes because my two flat top cells would loose connection somewhere. It no longer does that for some reason, not matter how hard I shake. That type 3 anodizing is really tough actually. The only thing that scratched it(with any sort of deepness) was when I tightened some threads way too tight and trick using a pliers to untwist.
