I’m a fan of P60 hosts, and the Solarforce L2 system in general.
I see Solarforce has a single “CR123A length” extention tube, but I’m not sure you can configure a “stubby” L2 around just this tube, you’d need some sort of adapter for the head…
http://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FA&s=16&id=59
Does Solarforce offer a single CR123A body that will be compatable with the L2 series components?
It’s the L2M.
I beleive you are loking for this:
http://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FA&s=16&id=199
The L2M , very good they are too, will let you run 18650’s as well as 16340’s and CR123A’s the body tube splits and the tail unscrews so you put your tailswitch and head on the shortened tube, costs a bit more but gives you extra flexibility.
The smaller diameter batteries are a loose fit but you can wrap a bit of electricians tape round them if you want, I don’t bother and they work even with 6xCR123A’s in a L2N with two extension tubes.
I use a shorty L2M as a night time “find the toilet” light. The six CR123’s I use with a 3-18v UV drop-in.
All the L2 series have interchangeable parts, one of the attractions for me, you can build up a large stock of parts and build whatever size and look that you want with them.
Before the L2m they did have a shorty just made as a 16340/ cr123 .
Maybe it was a knock off ...IDK it was more of a wet paint / slicker look rather than the dull finish they use now . I think the earlier solorforce was a little glossier anyway so it could be the real deal.
The newest L2M has a non tailstanding forward clicky ..You can buy extra tailcaps if you want a reverse clicky that will tailstand
http://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FB&s=2&id=485
http://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/product.php?sname=&s=18&t=FA
This shorty tube is for 16340/cr123.
http://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FA&s=16&id=199
This L2M will use an 18350 or 16340/cr123 without the extension tube. Or install the extension tube and use an 18650.
http://www.solarforceflashlight-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FB&s=2&id=485
I built a shortened drop in that lets me use an 18500 in shorty mode. I just shortened the pill, used a short spring and took 0.5 mm off the front of the reflector. It makes a nice shorty with a 1700 mah Sanyo 18500.
RWS34 Did you build it? What do you think? I’m also considering building a shorty from a L2M. However the dropins from Solarforce are the newest bulbs and I’m not sure it is worth it with a 280 Lumen bulb after being spoiled by the XM-L2 U2 drop in in the regular size models.
For a light that runs on a single CR123A cell, you would need a drop-in that is specific for low voltage use. Like a .8v to 4.2v drop in.
Yes, and that is the problem with the mini. Solarforce has two drop ins a XR-E and a XP-G that works with a single CR123. But now that I have a XM-L2 U2 in my L2P I am spoiled and want more bright out of the mini than I can get with either the XR-E or XP-G. If I can’t get more bright (cheaply) then it doesn’t make sense for me to build a mini. Maybe SolarForce will update their .8v - 4.2v drop ins to the newer variety.
You could always go with a Malkoff M31. I think it is the best low voltage drop in made! They also come in different tints. Plenty bright for a small single CR123A cell.
Was thinking of getting a L2M that runs on 16340. Primary for blinkie mode for cycling purpose.
Yes, but I can’t justify paying that much for a Malkoff M31 when I can buy a Solarforce Z-1 that runs off a CR123 and has an XP-G2 all for $15.99. So if I can’t find an inexpensive drop in for the Mini that puts out more bright then my default Mini will be the Z-1.
As for CR123’s that rattle, you could always buy them from a company like Battery Junction. They will shrink wrap the 123’s in whatever size set you want, 2’s, 3’s and then they don’t rattle at all. Really smart idea I would not have thought of, but it works.
No comparison at all. Apples to oranges. Just be aware that you get what you pay for. The M31 has an unbelievable beam and spews an enormous amount of light for a low voltage drop-in. The M31 is a P-60 sized drop-in that has many available battery and host options for you. The Z-1 is not a P-60 sized host. Good luck finding a drop-in for that light.
I agree that the M31 will give much more light. But there is also a light to dollars ratio and the M31 is so more expensive than the Z-1 that I’m just not sure it is worth the money for the additional light. (remembering that this is a budget light forum and not a wish list forum.)
My goal is try to squeeze as much light out of the P60 host as possible without spending an enormous amount of money for only a fractional difference. I also don’t think it is worth while to try to build a pocket light house. I just want the most light I can get from the single CR123 set up, which seems to be an XP-G2 at present.
Theres a few 4.2v upper limit drop ins.
- http://www.batteryjunction.com/p60stcrxmt6l.html
All about $30. You can probably find cheaper ones, Im sure Ive seen more.
For giggles, an SST 50 with upper voltage limit of 4.2, http://www.batteryjunction.com/sst-led-upgrade-p60.html no idea if a 16340 could be used or not. << not cheap.
No problem. To each, his own. I have many Malkoff drop ins, and I feel that they are well worth the money. An investment if you will. 
Yes The battery junction one won’t work I believe because the lower limit of 3.7 would mean the light would shut off very quickly as the battery power drained. The Thrunite has a range of 2.7 - 4.2 which is better, but a tad expensive for what it is. The Solarforce’s range is .8v - 4.2V.
I like the idea of the SST-50 but it also has a tight range plus a exorbitant price. The beauty of the SolarForce, and other modular lights allow me to make a light with 1 CR123, 2 3 or 4 or 1 18650 or 2. But that would require separate drops ins for each version. I’d like to see a drop in with a wider range for cheap money if possible.
I’m sure they are a good investment. It’s good you can afford them. But I still like the idea of building cheap by versatile parts.
I wouldnt be concerned about a range going under 2.7, unless you plan to run nimh AA. You wont be getting much light from a li ion under 3v. Im not certain, but I think the 3.7 is a typo and probably should be the same 2.7, but Im just guessing at that.
And in you post you said you were only interested in getting as much as you could from a single 123, thats not going to be a range upto 8.4v, it will be upper limited at 4.2v. Otherwise what are we talking about here, dropins with upto 8.4v are commonplace.
Yes you are right that 3.7 is a mistake should be 2.7. But a lower limit at 2,7 means that a 3.0 CR123 would shut off very quickly?? So a spread of .8v-4.2V would be better for a single CR123 light. Solarforce has these drop ins but they are XP-G’s and I prefer a XP-G2 because their little Z-1 has a XP-G2 and runs off one CR123 and it is quite a powerful little light for it’s size.