Looking at a comparison between these two drivers it appears that I should be able to remove R1, R2, C1, U1 and jumper U1 pins 6 and 8. Am I missing anything?
I don’t have a 1R0 resistor. Is 1ohm critical or could I just jumper it with a 000?
That will work. I used a small piece of wire to jump pins 6&8, cause I didn’t have any resistors that would work.
You can also leave all parts in place, and connect output anode with the 7135 leg closest to it. I do that on a lot of 101 AK A1’s.
Thanks for the quick answer. I just happen to have a board that has the Anode pad torn off. Jumpering from D1 to the closest 7135 leg gives me a usable attachment point 
board saved.
I don’t recall who to give credit for this picture but it’s not mine. Somebody from BLF posted it. It helps clear up the connections you suggested.
Here’s a picture of the driver with a torn off pad. I was trying to use some 20 gauge wire that was just too stiff.
Nope m8, just connect the diode end to the nearest 7135 pin, a fat solder blob will do the job, you need nothing else, you can use that blob for the wire too…
Aaah, memories, i did that when i started modding my first hunting C8s….
I killed two birds with one stone. This driver got a reattached positive lead and jumpered to single mode! Thanks for the tips guys.
While I was at it I stacked a few 7135’s.
Stacking was made a lot easier by another tip I gleaned from the forum. It’s real simple, bend the tabs down first.
