Convoy 17mm 5a buck driver immediately stepping down on modes over 10%

Ive got a 17mm 5a buck driver from convoy in this random light i have, but on any mode over 10%, it steps down for some reason? Ive attached a video so you can see what I mean. Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Ive currently got a vapcell n24 18500 that has a max cdr of 5a, so i doubt its that. Its also very consistent about how it steps down, so i dont think that its a dirty threads type of thing

Any ideas @Simon_Mao, and others?

Does the host have a retaining ring for the driver?
If the driver is press fit it’s probably not making good contact.

Can I get some pictures of the switch?

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Considering i soldered the driver to the pill, i feel likd its making good contact

Remove driver and connect all without host and see.

Gah reconnecting it to the host would be a bitch to do lol. Would keeping the pill intact and just hooking up to me power suppy directly give the same results?

Don’t want to offend anyone, but that solder blob is terrible, that alone could cause issues. use higher wattage soldering iron, like 60w for soldering to pills and heatsinks. Also it is 5A driver , not 15.

Oops, you’re right, fixed the typo as well

Im currently using a 75w iron. The ksger t12 clone (great name btw, just rolls off the the tounge). I guess i didnt put the temp all the way up for whatever reason. I will make sure to do that tho next time

Should i resolder it? Or is it probably fine enough? I wasnt sure if i was getting a connection, so put a small blob to make sure of it

Yea, I would definitely start with that, get your iron to heat up fully, and make sure to heat up the brass pill, cuz it acts as a heatsink, and moves heat away fast, the driver ring does not move heat as fast, concentrate on the pill, also use flux. it helps a lot with melting and flowing of solder.

Its an el cheapo host that i modded, so the pill is actually aluminum i believe. But i will be doing that. Thanks!

Oh, that is even worse, very hard to solder to AL, there are special fluxes for it thou, but have no idea how their conductivity ratings are, one thing to solder so 2 parts just stay together, another thing is electrical connections. It also moves heat away very fast. now i see why your 75w iron could not solder it properly.

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Well, good luck soldering aluminum. You need special flux . Do yourself a favor, trash that host and get S2+

I mean, im just using it because its an interesting one, I’ve got plenty of other lights. I found this, and thought it was interesting bc of the decent looking reflector, pill with shelf, and nice looking body

So what is stepping down? Driver it self or “nice looking body” flashlight ?

What? The driver i guess. The only parts from the original light are the optics and host. Rest is a 519a and convoy driver

I’m pretty sure the whole point was a unique light so I don’t really get the point of telling OP to get a s2+

The driver would step down when the battery cannot provide enough current to sustain the requested mode. In this case, the flaky negative connection caused the issue. I don’t see a simple fix for this. As others said, you can’t solder to aluminum easily and there is no space for a retaining ring.