Convoy H2 bezel tightness improvement

Just reviewed this on YouTube and mine was perfect, screwed the bezel down all the way

The reflector is resting on that red positive wire, it’s way too high and your photos confirm this because you’re pointed to the side of the red wire. One of the workers did a poor soldering job

I wonder what was causing the bezel to be crooked. At first I thought it was cross-threaded, and luckily it wasn’t. I don’t think it was due to the red wire getting in the way of the reflector since the bezel was raised on the other side.

Regardless, nice job eskon taking it apart and fixing the issue!

Well, it looks like it’s in the way though. If not that, then perhaps it is the reflector, pcb thickness, or gasket.

I reviewed it with the XML2 and it’s all perfect, so it’s a bit odd to read the OP has noticed the same on others

Edit: just had a look at the videos and they do have the same issue, all with the LH351D. Maybe mine is from a second batch or it has something to doing with the gasket or pcb.

I just received a LH351D version of this light. It still has the same flaw. The bezel was tilted and actually slightly cross-threaded.

I disassembled it and luckily got the bezel to go in straight without the reflector. Then I ground off about a 1mm of the reflector like op, but it didn’t go well. I accidentally touched the inside mirror finish and ruined it.

Now I’m thinking of converting this lamp to a 17mm TIR-lens, but they are about 3-4mm too short for this head :frowning: I must look for a piece of thick copper to make a spacer below the LED board.

If it is just a spot after you touched, then I don't think it will somehow affect light quality. Or buy mirror-like auto spray paint and make it glossy again (temp. resistant paint, of course).

I tried to clean my fingerprint with cotton tip and IPA, which rubbed off some of the coating. Now there is gold coloured spots all around.

I’m sure trying to paint it is just a waste of time. And I prefer TIR-lenses anyway. I have already modified a couple of S21A’s with them.

By the way, grinding of a full millimeter of the reflector is a bit excessive in my opinion. I think 0.5 to 0.7 mm should be enough.

I recently bought one more H2 with same Samsung LED for gift. It came with same tilted bezel, but this time bezel was deeper. I didn't make any changes, but if I had to, I think I would grind less than 1 mm. Mine was more projected and more tilted, this is why 1 mm or more.

Surprisingly, I didn't see this issue on XML versions when read reviews online. All photos were with bezel deep in the head.

Thanks for the update @eskon. I wanted to get this light with the Samsung LH351D, but maybe not with this bezel defect. It also comes in versions with XML2 and 219c emitters. How do those compare to the LH351D when using the 4000k tint?

Just for information, here is a video how to do TIR-lens mod for H2 or H3.

Sanding off a little bit of a 20mm lens seems to work just fine. I will try that.

Sad true is that Convoys headlamps host is poorly copied Skillhunt H serie . Its chunky, clumsy and have non standard optics.

That’s to bad. I wanted a headlamp that has built in charging to replace me skilhunt that broke in less than a year. I don’t like the proprietary magnetic charging on the skilhunt.

But the weight and bezel thing makes this less appealing. Wurkkos headlamps are too heavy. Wish a lightweight headlamp with USB charging was available.

Proprietary charger was the reason I passed skilhunt.

I assume H2 was designed to use 1.0 mm thick led-pcb but LH351D versions likely came with 1.6 mm pcb (I didn’t measure it). That would explain the bezel flaw.

I really like convoy’s general quality and good assortment of emitters, but putting these out with this flaw is really careless.

Headlamp with integrated charger is very amateur anyway. It takes space in host and you cannot charge batt when wearing a headlamp….you can but its stupid thing. Pure marketing bull#$%.
BTW skilhunt have no integrated charger only a magnetic port. Thats why its same size like without charger.

I’m pretty sure there is a demand for convenience on the market :slight_smile: (why I didn’t buy H1?)

Not really marketing BS. I’d be OK with slightly bigger/heavier light for the convenience of not having to pack extra batteries on longer trips. I don’t think anyone buying it was planning on charging while wearing it, lol.

I just got myself another H2 with LH351D. This time the bezel is straight, which is nice. But it’s still slightly protruding, about 0.5mm above the body.

I did the TIR-lens mod for my previous H2. I didn’t use the ar-lens and no “gasket” between the lens and pcb. Instead I made a spacer out of a 10 cent €uro coin between the pcb and body to raise the complete assembly. This coin is 90% copper. It’s 1.5mm thick after grinding it flat. The bezel sits a bit too recessed with it (just cosmetically). Next time I will use 50 cent coin which is 0.5mm thicker. That should make the bezel sit perfectly flush.

Now I had a chance to do a direct comparison between the modded (25 degree TIR) and original lamp with OP-reflector. In my opinion the modded one has more pleasant beam. It’s slightly floodier and very even. Of course some of the throw is lost but I don’t care. It’s perfect for trail walking and yard working.

Completely agree. During winter I use my headlamps for up to an hour a day, being able to just plug in a USB-C cable and forget about it is a real convenience factor. I wouldn’t ever want to have to choose one or the other (i.e. integrated charger but non-removeable battery) but having options is worth a small increase in weight.

Does anyone know what size star is on this, and if it’s possible to replace it with the below (Osram green emitter on a 16mm or 20mm star)?

16mm. It’s replaceable. But I can’t confirm if voltage and current regulation of the driver are suitable with that emitter.

I’m eyeing the H2 right now. Does it require a mod to fit the TIR lenses available on the Convoy store?

I used convoy’s 20mm lens too. It’s necessary to grind it’s diameter smaller (most of the top lip gets removed)

The copper spacer is optional (1.8 to 2.0 mm thickness is good). Without the spacer you need to use the original ar-lens and plastic “gasket”. So basically you just swap the reflector to a tir-lens.

In my opinion less lenses stacked is better, so I preferred the spacer mod. Also to my eyes LH351D’s tint looks better without purple ar-coating.