【convoy】H4 and B35AM options are updated

So….this 70% business:

1) is a good case for quality ramping firmware,

2) a good case for setting your own ceiling in Anduril (and for 50% max fans, too),

3) gives a little more light and reach than 40–50 while conserving a little battery juice and also building up less heat/building heat a little slower,

and 4) is available for your pleasure in one of the guppydrv versions (and I think moppydrv as well) from Dr. Jones. This means a simple mod and a few bucks for a new driver from Richard at Mountain Electonics, if Simon doesn’t want to do this someday in his own drivers.

I’ve always thought 70% is a nice added setting, or something around that level, and I often settle near there with my ramping lights. It really depends on the max output of the light, though, and we should probably be speaking in lumens rather than percentages of max output because that can matter quite a bit depending on the max between different lights. We might clamor for 70% in a 2000 lumen light but find that 70% in a 900 lumen light isn’t what we wanted (rough examples).

The reason the current percentage gaps exist comes from conversations here long ago regarding actual output/numbers vs. what the human eye can actually perceive in terms of changes in brightness. It’s what people arrived at and it’s what Simon (and many others) adopted for mode levels. It’s not inaccurate but it has its limitations in use sometimes, too. When people say jumping from 50—->70 isn’t detectable or not worth it, it just depends on your use case and the beam qualities of the particular light model. With most lights you can certainly tell a difference in that measly 20% but it may not matter to you in how you are using your light…but that 200%ish jump from mode to mode is unquestionably different. 20% jump with a tight beam vs. 20% jump with something smoooooth floody or muley….quite a difference there between the two.

Since Convoy lights are often the easiest things to mod with drivers and whatever else, you could just pick up a new one with firmware you like from Richard at MTN Electronics, and he offers custom levels for basic firmware (I think he may still be open to custom mods on others as well if you talk to him about it before ordering, as long as it’s not too nutty or too time consuming). You can even get a single mode 50% if you want (or would that just be a single mode 100% on a low-amperage driver…haha). Or go with Simon’s ramping firmware where you can have that, or go Anduril somewhere. Or modify Bistro or A6 to create a group that suits.

Received my M21E and M21F with the GTFC 1900k. Here are the measurements for one of them (both are similar):

CCT 1946K
DUV 0.0041
CRI 94.9
R9 73.2
RG 85

W/ Quarter Minus Green Lee Filter
CCT 1816K
DUV 0.0020
CRI 95.4
R9 72.1
RG 88

W/ Half Minus Green Lee Filter
CCT 1683K
DUV 0.0003
CRI 92.6
R9 67.1
RG 92

First of all, the quality of the flashlights is great and its nice that for the price, they come with boost drivers and are USB-C rechargeable. However, the GTFC 1900k is not what I expected. First of all, the DUV is very high (above the BBL or yellowish) and it requires a Half Minus Green Lee Filter to bring it down to neutral. Without the minus green filter, it looks pretty bad even to me and and I’m a huge fan of ultra warm lights like the E21A 2000k. Even with the half minus green, it is too warm even for me and the color rendering cannot compare with the E21A. I think the optimal ultra warm temp is 1800k-1900k (candle flame) with neutral or slightly negative DUV. In the future, I hope Simon can request a 9080 version that does not require half minus green LEE filters to bring it down to neutral. The half minus green filter surprisingly lowers CRI and R9.

R9 is only 73.2 which is about the same as CREE and Samsung 90CRI lights. However Nichia offers some high end 9080 that have R9 above 80 or sometimes even close to 100. RGWN that used to sell the GT-FC said he specifically requested the 9080 from Getian because if you don’t ask for it they will just give you 9050, which is likely what Simon and Hank got. IIRC RGWN’s GT-FC tested more like 9595.

RG is the worst I’ve ever seen for a HiCRI emitter at only 85. This means colors are not saturated. The E21A 2000K has a R9 of 100. I’ve tested some mixed tint E21A that reach RG of 107 and colors really pop and look almost cartoonish.

This surely won’t be a replacement for my NOV-MU with 21xE21A 2000k, which is probably as close to perfect candle light as we will ever see in a flashlight. Also the NOV-MU can sustain maybe 3x as much lumens as the M21E or M21F based on my observation. However, the NOV-MU also cost over 3x more and have not been available for purchase for almost 2 years.

The biggest pro for this GT-FC 1900k is that it emits even less blue wavelength than incandescent bulbs and less than the E21A 2000K, which means practically no blue light. Yet it still looks much better than all those yucky yellow light bulbs advertised to help you sleep that Ive tested. This makes for an excellent light for those who like to sleep with lights on as less blue wavelength means less negative health impact. It also makes for a great light that don’t attract insects. With the half minus green filter on, it is 1683K or basically an amber emitter but can sill render colors so it can be treated as a replacement for amber leds.

I do not regret buying these flashlights and I definitely will have use for them such as navigating the house at night without waking up others or leaving them plugged in as night lights.

Still waiting for mine to arrive. Thank you for all the information! Regarding the Lee minus green filter, could you please provide the exact model number? I only have a Lee zircon conversion pack and in that pack the “Minus Green” filters are listed as “Minus Green 1” to “Minus Green 5” with no indication (that I could see) as to which one constitutes a “Half Minus Green” filter. Thank you!

I’m a big fan of ultra warm/orange lights for plenty reasons.
even more that now most of world it’s saturated of harsh low cri cool white Led lights like on streets and car headlights…
I hope to see an improved version in R9 with negative DUV of this GT FC40 1900K and a 3V XP /XM size verison too

Have you tried the Bedtime lightbulb by Restful :question: They are good :+1: Also do you have any beamshots with the minus green filter ? :nerd_face:

Half Minus Green is Sheet No. 248. You can go to LEE filter website. They have a tool that tells you how much green the sheets remove so you can compare with the Zircon sheets

Simon will you sell spare S21D mpcbc with and without optic?

So I have 2 x convoy m21b gt-fc40 4000K
Bought 2 x Remote switch for M21B

The main switch works OK, but there's a problem with the momentary button on 100% (every other mode is ok)

On first convoy m21b gt-fc40 4000K,
Remote switch A
momentary button = Strobe (and driver noise when it's on)
Remote switch B
momentary button = Strobe (and driver noise when it's on)
On second convoy m21b gt-fc40 4000K,
Remote switch A
momentary button = Strobe (and driver noise when it's on)
Remote switch B
momentary button = continuous light but only around 10-20% (and loud driver noise when it's on)

And Yes I use both convoy m21b gt-fc40 4000K on group 12 on my bike, so always 100%. And I bought remote switch mainly for that momentary button on 100%. And exactly that don't work.

Anybody have the same problem on convoy m21b gt-fc40 100%?

Thank you for the information, will visit the Lee website again.

Yesterday I (finally) opened my Lee conversion pack, and I was astounded how much nicer a whole bunch of my lights become with a minus green filter in the front!

Does anyone have coupon for 3x21a sbt90.2 in Simon’s store ?
Thanks in advance!

I take that back, the main button not working too, it cuts out, or going strobe / continuous

And that momentary button strobe is actually always going into the group change! so it's not strobe, but many times pressing button.


EDIT: I did used my samsung 21700-40T cells that are 4.05V and 4.04V, and are working just fine with the normal buttons.
Did this with molicel 21700-P42A 3,95V and the result is the same.
And just now I waited longer, and it's actually going to the group change!!! on main button with remote switch in one of them.


like no... it is not, the battery are charged, and are working correctly on normal button in group 12.


I cant see a difference between the 35% and 100% on My C8+ using CSLNM1.
It bothers me having these ‘duplicate modes’ so I use group 8 that maxes out at 50%
Then I know im not accidently in 100% instead of 35, and I can easily cycle back around to .1 without having to first pass this ‘duplicate mode’.
I like the idea of using the 100%Only mode though, instead of using memory mode. So I can just turn it on “full” and theres no possibility for any accidental mode changes.
If I cant see any difference between 35% 50% or 100, then id like to have a Single Mode besides the 100%Only, that is less than 100, but visually indistinguishable. This should save battery power and produce less heat? Longer runtimes?
In the case of my C8+/CSLNM1, a single mode anwhere from 35% or above, but under 100% would make sense I think.

CSLNM1 is a special case. It’s got an unusually small difference between those modes. Mine measures 810lm at 100% mode and 485lm at 35% mode. That’s not a large enough difference to really notice.

You could get the version with the 8x7135 driver and that will have better mode spacing.

Hm, I have no idea what driver mine is using.
Just whatever comes in this light <a href=22.66€ 17% OFF|Convoy wüste tan/schwarz/silber C8 + mit KW CSLNM1.TG 6500K mit 18650 lithium batterie|Taschenlampen| - AliExpress>here. (12 group version)
It says “max current output is 4800mA” but that doesnt mean a whole lot to me yet…
That listing doesnt offer any options for driver choice, and I dont see any other listing for one using 8x7135.
Not that Im looking to buy one anyway though. Im fine with the one I have.

I’ll see how I like the mode spacings on my M21B/GTFC40 when It arrives.

For my Convoy S16 with SFT40, I can barely tell the difference between 35% and 100%, except for heat output.

I know the "100%" should look 69% brighter than the "35%", but it doesn't.

the wall of diminishing returns.

I think that the switch can’t handle 10A from turbo. The voltage drop cause low voltage warning. You can select mode group 9 and turn memory off to see if it works. Turbo only last for a few minutes anyway. I also find that the step-down from turbo is timed (10 minutes to 35). In the other hand, 50 seems to have temperature control.


I use them as bike lights, so I only need one 100% mode, and they have good enough cooling to sustain it for long enough.

I tested on group 9 so:

The main switch works OK, but there's a problem with the momentary button on 50%

On first convoy m21b gt-fc40 4000K,
Remote switch A
momentary button = blinks twice and goes from 50 -> 10% (and if I click it, it has only 3 modes on momentary button 10%-1%-0.1%)
Remote switch B
momentary button = blinks twice and goes from 50 -> 10% (and if I click it, it has only 3 modes on momentary button 10%-1%-0.1%)
On second convoy m21b gt-fc40 4000K,
Remote switch A
momentary button = blinks twice and goes from 50 -> 10% (and if I click it, it has only 3 modes on momentary button 10%-1%-0.1%)
Remote switch B
momentary button = continuous light but still dimmer than 50% (and loud driver noise when it's on)

So on every mode, it's not working correctly. Even on 50% the momentary button isn't working, so it will not working correctly on every group.That's not funny, do I sound irritated, well I am irritated.

If it can't candle 50% mode, then it wouldn't work properly on every convoy M21B. And it's a remote switch designed to work with the M21B, do you see the irony.

Will try to test it later with my new lab power supply, to see exactly how much current it can handle.

Ps. I bought it all in official aliexpress convoy store, without using convoy store discount code.
Pps. official aliexpress convoy store accept my dispute, so I didn't lose money. But well, I post it here to hear if somebody have the same problem with it. Because I had 2, and tested on 2 convoy M21B and they didn't work even on 50% power.
And I do want to buy it for my bike, but I have to know if it's working correctly, and i'm just unlucky.

Again it’s a low voltage signal.Probably the momentary circuit has a higher resistance. You must remember that it’s a mechanical switch. Let’s consider 1 Volt drop, at 5 Amps it’s only 0.2 Ohm.