Convoy L2 driver and LED options

Thank you for the link

Convoy L2 driver size 20 or 22 mm? How bout the emitter side what size is it? I just got my L2 and I was thinking of moddIng it. New driver and emitter. I might replace the tail switch too. All the results I’ve seen are from the older version of the L2.

Thank you

does any make a 17mm retaining ring for c8. I would like a brass replacement for the one that came from the factory for my driver.

I asked Simon and he sent a couple in my subsequent order. The aluminum one I had stripped.

My 2 Newer Convoy L2 driver pockets measure 21.5-21.6mm you can run a 20mm FETDD driver which is sloppy or 22mm FETDD driver, if you just file/sand down the board a little for a tight fit, With 22mm Buck or Boost drivers the components (smd’s) might be too close to the ground seat edge. The depth of the pocket is approximately 3.5mm.

New question. What would be the best driver/emitter combo to get the best throw using two cells in series please.

Thank you

Also: I need a good soldering iron. any suggestions.

I went for a 20mm buck driver and XP-L HI combo from mountain electronics. Pushing 5.1 A on Turbo and the throw is good. However, my centering ring is rubbish so I’m definitely going to change that because when I fasten the bezel completely it moves slightly off centre. Super annoying!

Unfortunately “20mm buck driver” that push hi Amp is very hard to find (non US) I looking for it but can’t find one.

I’m from South Africa and had no issues with shipment. Can’t they ship to your country?

The price +shipping is too much for me.

Howdy, folks. This is not intended as a thread hijack, it seemed right on-point but if it strays too far I’ll start a new thread (and come back to this post and link there for the curious); just LMK.

I’m looking to build a throwy light for boating at night — going between mainland and island on a rocky, low-trafficked (especially at night) lake. I need to be able to spot landmarks/scan the coast at distances of around 1000 feet or so. I’d be running 2 22650s all the time (for balance, to marry the cells, and because it’ll be left in the boat for extended periods), and wanted to use either an XP-L HI V3 3C (from mountain electronics) or an XP-L HI U6 4B (aliexpress — was going with the V3 3C originally but am starting to wonder if maybe the U6 4B would be better for cutting fog?), and looking at buck drivers. I’ve seen some folks have filed down larger drivers to fit the L2 — any suggestions between mountain’s 20mm and 22mm buck drivers? The 20mm has 2.5A and 3.5A output options, whereas the 22 has a 3.0A (the max current of the LEDs under consideration) if that matters.

Also wondering if I need to be talked off the ledge on this one: there’s a HK seller on the auction site offering the L2 with U6 4B for $43 — I’m open to the suggestion that for what I want, I should grab the off-the-shelf option (possibly potting it & bypassing springs) and be done with it. That one comes with an LD29 driver. If the advantages of building it myself are outweighed by the ease and savings of clicking Buy-it-Now, I want to be smart about it. I recognize that that’s a personal calculus, but are there any major disadvantages to simply buying the light whole like this?

Thanks in advance for any guidance.

I don’t see much point in building an L2 just to run it at 3.5A. I’d say just buy a stock light from Banggood (look for a coupon on the deal threads) with one of the warmer tints available for ~$45, and be done with it.

On the other hand, that may not have the throw you are looking for. To get there you’ll need to find a higher current driver and make sure your XPL-HI is mounted on a DTP copper MCPCB (I think the stock L2 uses aluminum).

Even then though, it looks like you can only really get a 50% boost in output from an XPL-HI over stock, and you’ll have to drive in 2x as hard to get there.

My favorite l2 (new clear version) has an xhp35hi and the mtnmax buck, running 4 26350s. It’s the brightest and most throwy l2 I’ve got. I got 2,002 lumens and 284kcd (1,066 meters). I picked the 2.5a option for a 12v emitter.
When stock, with the xpl-hi, and stock driver, with a pair of 26650s, it did 704 lumens and I didn’t even measure throw.

For reference, I also have another kaidomain h2c driven l2 running a pair of 26650s, driver has a resistor mod and the same LED. It’s pushing 1,832 lumens and 208kcd (914 meters).

I’m pretty sure you’d have a hard time putting that much out with an xpl-hi. I recommend the xhp, from what I’ve run.

Thanks for the responses, this is a huge help; I appreciate it. Now thinking I might just do both - grab a ready-made and then try my meager skills at building one along the lines you suggest, nkresho. I hadn’t looked at the xhp, and didn’t even consider 4 26350s, so this is interesting stuff. I’ll post a comparison if I do both.

I would go for the XHP35 HI and L2 with 2x 26650. Get the boost driver from Kaidomain and do a resister mod so that your high mode is around 1,5 A, and then there will be a 1 min turbo timer that you can use if needed. Around 1,5 A high mode there will be a plenty of lumens and it can run like that for the whole charge.

The XHP35 HI D4 3C has a great neutral tint that should suit your needs. With 2x 5500mAh cells you will get great runtimes too.

What other driver can I use with the SST-40 dedome to get 1 mode flat at 100% on 2S? Either a 2S, single mode driver, or a 2S driver with firmware that can be programmed to 100% only.

Convoy has a new 22mm XHP35 driver, single cell, but 2.3A.
It’s 22mm and Simon says it won’t fit the L2, but the KD driver is 22mm and also doesn’t fit without filing down. I’ve a couple on order, so I’ll know if its possible in the next week or 3.

You might try P4000 and SST-40

How can I program it to run 1 mode at 100% only?

I’m doing just that!
Those sst40 leds are outstanding.