Convoy L2/L6 modding thread

EasyB · 2017-06-20T23:16:34.000Z

I took the H2-C driver and XHP35 out of the L2 and replaced it with a sliced XHP50 J4 running off 2x26350. It pulls around 6.5-7A from the 26350 cells and does about 2900 lumens at 15s and 157Kcd at 30s. There is a donut hole.

Edit: I’m pretty pleased with the short L2 and XHP50 combo. The beam is about the same size as an EE X6 with XPL HI now.

Slayer1 · 2017-06-22T14:16:35.000Z

Modded my Convoy L6 with TA 30mm driver by Lexel.
This is my very first mod and I reused the spring and lead wires.
Thought I burnt a chip but luckily the flashlight is working.
Steep learning curve for me as its a first for me especially the soldering part.

doubleone44 · 2017-07-01T11:08:32.000Z

Quick question, does the LD-29 in the L2 support 5-6V emitters with 2x li-ion input? I want to put a XHP50.2 in mine.

Lowtech · 2017-07-01T11:37:29.000Z

Etex:

Follow up to my previous post of L6 with TA driver w/ narsil v1.4. By Lexel. Previously the led had a very low glow with side switch in the off position & tail on. See post #227. Lexel thought it was a leaky 7135 chip.

Now I’m seeing this, batteries are at 3.9 volt ea. Wondering if there is a way to measure 7135 chips to pinpoint the culprit.

https://youtu.be/ZiVeIGgRLsw

Mine was exactly the same but last time i tested it was working as intended. My guess is a lose solderblob or a cold solder someplace.

Il do some testing in a few days when im off work for a looong time.

JasonWW · 2017-07-01T12:12:45.000Z

doubleone44:

Quick question, does the LD-29 in the L2 support 5-6V emitters with 2x li-ion input? I want to put a XHP50.2 in mine.

Is the LD-29 the stock driver for the L2?
I know a little L2 driver history. When it first came out the L2 could only support a single cell driving a 3 volt emitter. Later on it was able to support one or two cells but the output is always 3v.

If you want to run a 6 volt emitter I’m pretty sure you’re going to have to swap drivers.

EasyB · 2017-07-01T17:18:45.000Z

Modded an L2 with triple XPL. I’ve tried a few different emitter combinations in my shorty L2 host recently. I had a modded H2-C driver with XHP35 HI powered by 2x26350 that did around 2200 lumens and 250Kcd. This was a nice combination but I have a fandyfire SP02 with dedomed XPL V6 that had similar performance in a more compact package. Next I had a sliced XHP50 with FET driver and 2x26350 that did ~2900 lumens and 157Kcd. I feel like this combination suited the L2 well; the host has some nice mass and fins so I think a more powerful setup is needed with the L2.

Finally I modded it with this triple dedomed XPL V6 1A setup. The reflectors are from EE X6’s. Quite a bit of shaping (with a file) was needed to get them to fit.

It does ~3600 lumens at 15s and 152Kcd with a 30Q. The beam is pretty much like a EE X6, but appears a bit wider. I think this a result of the modifications to the reflectors. The outer part of the reflector contributes light to the center part of the beam, so removing some of this part takes some of the light from the center of the beam and moves it to the spill, resulting in a wider spill with some “flower petal” pattern.

Was hoping for a bit more beam lux, but it’s a nicer beam than the XHP50 and produces more light more efficiently. It pulls around 12A.

DB_Custom · 2017-07-17T23:28:56.000Z

Nice one! I have a LOT of X6 reflectors sitting around doing nothing.

Got my first XHP-70.2 in today from Richard so of course, cervical collar or no, I swapped it into my ramping L6. It’s now pulling 16.48A (up from 11.91A) and making 7417.5 lumens at start on fresh charged LiitoKala light blue 5000mAh cells.

I don’t have a smooth reflector for it, cut the aperture of mine to fit the MT-G2 in my other L6, guess I’ll have to see about procuring another reflector or sanding down one of the OP ones I have extra.

Edit: Does 9073.5 lumens sound better? I forgot I had a small Omten switch in this one and I did not have it bypassed, so I put a Lg Omten switch with a 20ga bypass in it. Recharging cells again to see what a max possible lumens is.

Etex · 2017-07-24T21:34:01.000Z

Well, so much for trying to salvage r100's from other circuit boards to stack on an L6. Lux readings were same after mod (if not slightly worse).

In other news, I took some comparison measurements with different batteries & TA Driver :

L6 Stock KP Protected 5200mah.

- 3090 lux - 77,250 cd - 556 meters

L6 Stock KP IMR 5200mah.

- 3125 lux - 78,125 cd - 559 meters

L6 TA Driver Schockli 5500mah.

- 4800 lux -120,000 cd - 693 meters

Ceiling bounce:

L6 TA Driver:
.............................. 15 sec. Off. +30 sec
KP Protected - 508 lux. - 497 lux
KP IMR. - 538 lux. - 506 lux
Schockli. - 541 lux. - 536 lux

Etex · 2017-07-24T21:45:16.000Z

Another item I discovered, my original black L6 tail cap spring, started to malfunction. Jumper wire came loose, but I also noticed the height of the spring was shorter than on my clear L6’s, plus the coiled spring wire diameter was smaller, as well. Cause light to not make contact with shorter IMR batteries. Replaced it.

DB_Custom · 2017-07-24T21:56:07.000Z

Removing resistors from one circuit to use on another can be tricky, there is a metal “C” shaped attachment on each end of a ceramic resistor and this is what allows us to solder them on in the first place. Many times, one end of the metal will slip off the ceramic, leaving nothing to solder to. I like to slip a razor blade under one end while softening the solder and let the razor blade divide the resistor from the board, but only lifting by that minimal thickness. Then I go to the other side and, without lifting the loose side, soften the solder on this last side and lift with tweezers. Usually, but not always, works.

Etex · 2017-07-24T22:29:16.000Z

Thanks Dale,

That’s certainly possible, kinda hard to tell on tiny parts. Here’s 1 of 3 resistors (bottom view) I removed from 3 sep locations.

DB_Custom · 2017-07-24T23:43:18.000Z

You should be able to test it with a DMM, make sure both ends are capable of taking a circuit. Looks like the bottom as shown may be missing that metal end cap, can’t be for sure though.

Etex · 2017-07-25T06:34:21.000Z

I tried to measure it, but couldn’t get a valid reading. Differed depending where I put the probes, open vs 0.000 vs .3 ?

DB Custom:

You should be able to test it with a DMM, make sure both ends are capable of taking a circuit. Looks like the bottom as shown may be missing that metal end cap, can’t be for sure though.

JasonWW · 2017-07-25T10:26:50.000Z

I’m not very experienced in smd stuff, but I’ve never seen a green resistor, only black. I have seen green capacitors, though. Are you sure that’s a resistor?

I had one of the original jumper wires come off as well.

Later on I replaced the tail wire with 1mm copper braid. Now that it’s pulling 12 amps I’ve noticed the copper braid melted through.

Then I doubled up the copper braid and it’s melted through as well.

I’m gonna try some thicker copper wire next.

rizky_p · 2017-07-25T15:01:52.000Z

what is the easiest mod to achieve 5000ish lumens on L6?

JasonWW:

I’m not very experienced in smd stuff, but I’ve never seen a green resistor, only black. I have seen green capacitors, though. Are you sure that’s a resistor?

I had one of the original jumper wires come off as well.

Later on I replaced the tail wire with 1mm copper braid. Now that it’s pulling 12 amps I’ve noticed the copper braid melted through.

Then I doubled up the copper braid and it’s melted through as well.

I’m gonna try some thicker copper wire next.

JasonWW · 2017-07-25T15:40:38.000Z

rizky_p:

what is the easiest mod to achieve 5000ish lumens on L6?

JasonWW:

I’m not very experienced in smd stuff, but I’ve never seen a green resistor, only black. I have seen green capacitors, though. Are you sure that’s a resistor?

I had one of the original jumper wires come off as well.

Later on I replaced the tail wire with 1mm copper braid. Now that it’s pulling 12 amps I’ve noticed the copper braid melted through.

Then I doubled up the copper braid and it’s melted through as well.

I’m gonna try some thicker copper wire next.

It depends on what you mean by easy.

If you mean less work, then you can do a driver swap and easily exceed 5,000 lumen. That’s basically soldering 2 wires. Very easy, but about $25 for the driver.

If you mean cheaply, then maybe you can get the stock driver to work. You can add a jumper wire across the resistors. For this you can just pull the stock driver out a little bit and solder the wire on. It doesn’t cost anything, but I don’t know if you would hit 5,000 lumen.

With any type of mod to the driver, you will always get more output using a unprotected, low internal resistance battery, like the Liitokalas.

Oh yeah, and the cool white versions are always gonna give more output than the NW.

rizky_p · 2017-07-25T16:59:08.000Z

thanks.

i think i’ll go for driver swap in the end but i can also try resistor mod first. What is the diameter of the convoy L6 driver? 30mm?

JasonWW:

It depends on what you mean by easy.

If you mean less work, then you can do a driver swap and easily exceed 5,000 lumen. That’s basically soldering 2 wires. Very easy, but about $25 for the driver.

If you mean cheaply, then maybe you can get the stock driver to work. You can add a jumper wire across the resistors. For this you can just pull the stock driver out a little bit and solder the wire on. It doesn’t cost anything, but I don’t know if you would hit 5,000 lumen.

With any type of mod to the driver, you will always get more output using a unprotected, low internal resistance battery, like the Liitokalas.

Oh yeah, and the cool white versions are always gonna give more output than the NW.

Etex · 2017-07-25T16:51:02.000Z

Actually, Jason, the green you’re seeing is some stuck on coating (on the underside of the resistor) from the circuit board that I lifted the resistor off of. The right hand pic shows a swatch of green missing from the board. The top is black with R100 printed.

JasonWW:

I’m not very experienced in smd stuff, but I’ve never seen a green resistor, only black. I have seen green capacitors, though. Are you sure that’s a resistor?

I had one of the original jumper wires come off as well.

Later on I replaced the tail wire with 1mm copper braid. Now that it’s pulling 12 amps I’ve noticed the copper braid melted through.

Then I doubled up the copper braid and it’s melted through as well.

I’m gonna try some thicker copper wire next.

Etex · 2017-07-25T18:07:21.000Z

If you decide to remove driver for swapping out or working on, JasonWW shared a Kawiboy tweak that was pictured on post #265, but now photo is not available (due to photobucket crackdown). It allows you to remove driver & side switch without desoldering the switch (recommended).

rizky_p:

thanks.

i think i’ll go for driver swap in the end but i can also try resistor mod first. What is the diameter of the convoy L6 driver? 30mm?

JasonWW · 2017-07-25T20:02:03.000Z

Etex:

Actually, Jason, the green you’re seeing is some stuck on coating (on the underside of the resistor) from the circuit board that I lifted the resistor off of. The right hand pic shows a swatch of green missing from the board. The top is black with R100 printed.

JasonWW:

I’m not very experienced in smd stuff, but I’ve never seen a green resistor, only black. I have seen green capacitors, though. Are you sure that’s a resistor?

I had one of the original jumper wires come off as well.

Later on I replaced the tail wire with 1mm copper braid. Now that it’s pulling 12 amps I’ve noticed the copper braid melted through.

Then I doubled up the copper braid and it’s melted through as well.

I’m gonna try some thicker copper wire next.

Okay, just checking.