I was wondering if I could get some info from everyone about the M1 host new version from Mountain Electronics. Does this model have better or worse heatsinking than the old brass pill model? I know this thing is gonna get hot fast at 5 amps from a Qlite but should I even try this? Am I wasting my time? Thanks! By the way, new here and I’ve already found a lot of great info.
Welcome!
I know some people have done XHP-50’s in the M1 and M2, but I don’t know about the 70. You would definitely need to open up the reflector. Without the pill, it means a more direct path to the body of the flashlight, which means it will feel hot faster than a distinct pill, but that means the heat is getting out faster. Just keep in mind, a normal M1 is built to drive a 3-4v led at 3amps, so about 10watts. A 6-8v Led like an XHP running at 5amps is doing ~35watts. The M1 just isn’t big enough to handle that for long, and neither are little 18350 batteries. It would be a “shock and awe” light, but not practical in the higher modes.
I know I won’t get much over 30 seconds on high. Just wanted that to be available if needed. Got the guppy drvr flashed so I will have plenty of low mode options for general use. Will the spring mods still need to be done for ocaisonal use on high? What’s the best way to open up the reflector? Just a drill bit? Are they easy to damage?
I think some people just use a rasp?
You probably would be fine not braiding the springs, but there’s still a chance the amperage would be too much causing them to collapse. Just for safety’s sake, I would bypass them.
The reflective surface can be easy to damage, so try not to contact the inside of the reflector at all.
I use one of these slowly open up reflectors, some people just use diamond files or other tools.
Do you do anything to protect the reflective surface PD?
Awesome! Never thought of using a step bit, that should do the trick and leave a clean edge. Just got my shipping notification from RMM last night so I should see my parts maybe tomorrow. Can’t wait to see what this thing does. I believe it will most likely be all flood light in that shallow reflector. Anyone have any guestimate on OTF lumens with my setup?
Not really. I clamp the reflector in my mini vise with the emitter side straight up, then drill straight down into it. The step bit definitely gives a cleaner edge. The trick is to go pretty slow and take a little off at a time. The hope is that any scraps fall straight down and don’t touch the reflective surface at all, otherwise just use water or canned air to get any flecks out.
Keep in mind, because of the cone shape of a reflector, opening the hole a lot could also make the reflector shorter and cause fitment issues.
Does anyone know if I will need button top or flat top 18350s for this light? It will be double spring I believe. Efest purples? Any better options? Extension tubes for the new version m1 to run dual 18650? Thanks
Ok, so I just finished building the M1 with the XHP70 last night. Here are a few of my questions. At around 5 amps from the qlite on high would two red efest IMR18350’s work just fine or am I too close to the amp limit? No purples available in my area that I can find and I want to test this thing! With the added height of the sinkpad and led base square my reflector is not seated all the way down at the top rim. The reflector itself is sitting on the very edge of the four corners of the square. I did not have to open up the LED hole due to the stock diameter for the spacer that came with the host. Should I leave the reflector long and just let the bezel hold it on center or should I shorten it so it doesn’t touch the square and properly seat on the top rim. I am also worried about the reflector shorting the leads as it is a wide flat bottom. Thanks. I can post pics if my point is not getting across.
They should be fine with 5 amps. Just don’t expect it to stay in regulation very long at all.
Isues with guppy drv. Can’t figure out why I can’t get into programming mode. Please help. Tried RMM’S instructions on the website but no go
It was always easy with my forward clicky Solarforces, but I struggled at first with the reverse clicky Convoys.
Here is what I do now. Note, I don’t like clicking it during the process. I turn it on with a full click, and then half press it to turn off the emitter. I pause a brief while. Then (very quickly, without clicking it) I release the button and then half press and release the button 8 times. Then it flashes. Then I half press and release the required number of times. The second set of presses can be performed at slower pace.
For some reason it is hard for me to count to 8 when I’m starting from a pressed position, and want to end with it released (Doing the opposite with a forward clicky was more natural…). I’ve found it helps to start the count with an “Ahh”, and follow it with 1,2,3…,8 on each press. So, I release on “Ahh”, and then count the presses — and go very fast. I guess that means it’s easier to count presses than count releases (and there must be 9 releases). Note, that helped me figure it out. Now I just “go for it” each time — and get in 8 or 9 presses and it works most of the time. I think my muscle memory has taken over.
To be sure, it was a mystery for me for a few days when I first tried it with a Convoy’s reverse clicky.
Thanks! I figured it out now after reading your post
Ok so all of a sudden after two days with a working light I now only have 1 low mode output. Cannot figure out what’s going on. Removed driver to see if something was shorting and nothing obvious. Powered on with driver removed and still the same issue. Nothing shorted to the stars thag I can see. Bad driver?The led lights but stopped shifting modes. Any ideas and what to check?