Approximately what thickness are you talking about?
I used the 7070 9mm gasket from Convoy. The inner diameter of the TIR is slightly larger than 9mm so I inserted segments of paper strips with double sided glue tape to center it properly.
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But isn’t the R9050 in 4000K or 5000K a nicer quality of light in general despite slightly lower output?
I have both the R90 and R70 XHP70.3, i can confidently say that the R70 is a much comfier and rosy tint.
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Everyone raves about -duv of 519A etc but sometimes the tint of CREE “low CRI” LEDs is also actually pretty nice. I’ve 4000K XPL Hi in my Emisar DW4, in use I can’t actually “see” the low CRI.
Different people have different preferences, in order, mine are: CCT (4000Kish), tint neutral or slightly rosy, beam shape then CRI comes last so long as it’s not horrendous.
Rosy and low cri are oposite things. Low cri usualy are +DUV.
Would you have a beam shot to give it a taste?
I think mine would be tint (neutral), CCT, then CRI. I have some SFT-40 (5000K) emitters that are beautifully neutral and honestly colours look pretty good with them, you really need to compare it side by side with a Nichia to notice the difference and even then it’s not glaring. In actual usage it’s not noticeable.
TBH I find the insistence on high CRI somewhat baffling when people then want a 3000K (yellow) and negative DUV (pink) emitter. You’re not getting accurate colour rendering when everything’s artifically pinky-yellow. Subjectively it may look nice, but objectively colour-accurate it’s not.
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The advancement of LEDs beyond low CRI 5000K options and the introduction of the opple devices has changed the discussion somewhat.
I recall when the BLF A6 was designed, the (?) XPL that was used was specifically 5000k 3D as it was “neutral” - I personally find this too cool and the light sits in my “to modify” box. Back then “high CRI” meant getting something that (might, or might not) look nice, at the large expense of high output.
Now we have means to measure above/below BBL, plus availability of LEDs to choose from, the binary yes/no answer to “is it high CRI” is less relevant. The nice thing about forums is the historical record they contain for future reference, the downside is all the “if it’s not high CRI, I don’t want it” from the Good Old Days still exists and looks current when it’s a little more nuanced nowadays.
I think it’s not often understood that CRI is just how well a light source matches the light that would come off something if you heated said object to that temperature in Kelvin. A candle has a CRI of (about) 100, however, it would be no good for the oft-quoted hypothetical scenario of an electrician identifying different cable colours.
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Could use a thinner MCPCB or sand the bottom side of the MCPCB a little thinner.
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It’s not a perfect comparison but i have the XHP 70.3 in 4000k and 5000k. The 4000k is R70 and the 5000k is R90, the white balance is locked to 5000k in this photo
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Yes, and people should also keep in mind when it’s stated as “CRI of X” it’s a composite score. That’s why a led can be “high CRI” overall but score low in reds, thus it has an ugly green tint (to my green-hating eyes anyway). It took a while for that to click with me. I’ll take an 80 CRI, neutral or negative duv over a green high CRI anyday.
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I used gasket as you suggested, 10mm one (Convoy doesn’t have 9mm for 7070), and couldn’t fully tighten the bezel. There was a gap ≈0.5mm.
However, I tried removing o-ring and noticed that there was plenty of space - the glass even rattled. So I got thinner (1mm) o-ring and now the bezel sits perfectly.
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Nice test. Is there any improvement to the beam?
Subjectively yes, with 8deg lens.
I’ll try to make some beamshots.
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