Convoy s2+.... First post

Hey guys,

Found this forum browsing around looking for a new light. And I’m happy I did. I’ve read a bunch of post and decided to purchase 2 S2+. These are going to be glovebox guys. One for me and one for my GF. I have 2 questions.

1. I bought a blue with a l2 t6 and a Grey with a u2 1b. I wanted to know if I could swap them around so the Grey has the l2 t6? I’m sure I can but i wanted to confirm. I want the Grey and would prefer that tint. My GF could care less lol.

2. What battery is recommended? I just purchased 2 armytek wizard pro v2 with evaa sanyo/Panasonic.HERE

Would these be overkill? I prefer the protected cells for safety reasons but it seems people use unprotected with no problem. So any recommendations would be appreciated.

Happy I’ve found BLF!!

1) yes - take apart the light, unscrew the middle part from the head so that you can see the spring/driver. Take a pair of tweezers, plug them inside the head into the “grooves” or “cutouts” and turn CCW (left) to unscrew the pill. Make sure you are unscrewing the pill and not the driver retaining ring (the inner ring). Do the same with the other light and swap them. Installing the pill is turning them CW (right). When tightening the pill at the end make sure that no parts like the centering disc/butterfly part are misplaced or in a wrong position.

2. I trust Samsung batteries, they are amazing. But there are many good brands. Unprotected are fine as well.

S2+ is kind of flood light
C8 is a thrower with XPL HI

U2-1A or U4-1A ones are cold white but not too bad tint

I prefer XML2 U3-3D its almost like daylight almost no tint visible
http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xm16-v2-mcpcb-cree-xml2-u3-3d-led-p-844.html
XPL V6-3D is also a very pleasant daylight white
http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-xp16-v2-mcpcb-cree-xpl-v6-3d-led-p-812.html

Usually prefer tints like 1A 1D 3A 3D, 5A2, 5A3 as they are close to thermal light source

If you go for high current cooling becomes important, so got DTP boards

Welcome to BLF!

Good choice on the S2+… That’s probably one of my favorite general-purpose lights, and definitely a fantastic value (brightness and quality for the price).

1. Sure, it’s pretty straightforward to swap the guts from these similar lights. Unless you want to do some soldering, it will definitely be easiest to take out the whole “pill” assembly containing both the driver and emitter. You’ll want to use some super-fine needlenose pliers, or some stout tweezers, to unscrew the driver assembly from underneath. Then just swap and re-install. (Optional: If you are into soldering, or if you want to swap emitters with other lights in the future, you’d need to de-solder the two wires that are currently attached to the top of the emitter board, swap out what you want, and re-solder.)

2. I’m of the opinion that protected cells are always a good idea. Many people here use unprotected cells without incident, and if you’re trying to push output as high as possible in a custom light, the protection circuit can get in the way. Also, some lights are too short to fit some protected cells - the protection circuit adds a few mm to the length. But as long as they fit in your light, and as long as you’re running stock or reasonably-driven lights, protection offers… well, protection. Sure, maybe you’ll always be careful with charging, discharging, and storage. But what if someone borrows your light, and throws the battery loose in a bag with other metal junk, or it gets into a pocket with keys, or it gets improperly installed/charged? Protection circuits offer peace of mind, especially if you have kids in the house! All that said, I own some of each type… But any new ones I buy, and certainly any I give as gifts, are protected.
2b. Overkill? Nah! As long as the cell fits in your light, it’s definitely not a problem to have “too nice” a battery.

Cool thanks for the responses… I’m defiantly gonna grab a C8 to mess around with as well.