Thanks for explanation, and making me realize I’ve misspelled Carclo all this time.
The world of flashlight is a lot more complicated the more I dig into it. I have spare Carclo 10621 Quad, the throwy one. If I experiment and paint three of the Quad black, I imagine I would see what a single one does?
By far, my most favorite mode of S21F is Turbo. For 3 reasons:
At 2000 lm, it has higher output than S21D 519a 4500k (1900 lm) and S21D 219b 4500k (1700 lm).
It has a beautiful warm tone, with incredibly low Duv secondary to the “magic” of CCT mixing.
No PWM unlike all the other mixed CCT modes. This is more psychological than real as I could not tell when PWM is on or off.
Here’s comparison of S21F’s turbo mode with the closest CCT, my S21D 519a 4500k which measures 3900-4000k. I hope you could see how S21D is more yellow vs S21F’s more rosy tint. Both excellent, just different.
That S21F’s tint for me is almost worth the price of admission of the light, especially for Nichia “collectors.” I don’t know if there is any ~3800k CCT Nichia that has such negative Duv.
interestingly, this 219b from Simon is more pink than from Henk, even it seemed to me too much, Hank has a clean neutral without pinkness, but here it’s an amateur, I see such pinkness for the first time, I also have it from Simon, it’s not so pink there. Well, here I specifically asked him to be pinker in order to understand the essence
Very nice! For a moment I thought that was a stainless host…great job on the polishing. Sometimes the alloys used for flashlights don’t polish up so nicely even when you do it right, but this looks excellent. No cutting, correct, just polish? Did you do it with a lathe, or a bench wheel, or by hand? That really does look great, nice work.
Thanks I was trying!) Tactile flashlight has become very pleasant, smooth, do not want to let go
First I removed the anodizing from
of the old tape (grain 180) on the surface grinder, twisting the flashlight in his hands along the tape, there were traces of grain, then he clamped it in a vice and polished it with sandpaper 1200 for about an hour, it took 3 sheets, the traces of the adhesive tape disappeared, but there was no shine, went to the polishing machine with a rag circle and paste, at first rough, it almost began to shine, then polished and the body shone!
I am engaged in the manufacture of knives, so I have the equipment, this effect can be achieved simply with sandpaper, paste and a woolen sock, preferably clean)
Welcome to the 219b club. Beautiful job on the light!
Another difference might the optic. The most diffused Carclo optic I’ve used for my D4V2 is 10623, and the beam profile (throwy vs floody) of this Carclo is similar to my Convoy’s 30 Bead. (Based on the numerous pictures I’ve taken with these lights and optics.)
Basically Convoy 60 Bead is the most diffused optic possible among my Nichia lights, and Carclo’s equivalence might be 10624 which I have no experience with.
I go to the forest, I use a clean 10 degree, sometimes you need to light it further away, suddenly someone is sitting there)
60 is already very wide, great for a photo or at home, but in nature even 30 is wide for me.
Hand polishing with a woolen sock…now that is dedication!
I used to polish a lot of aluminum. It took a little learning since it is so different than steel - and it also depends on the alloy. I smoothed until starting with 600 grit, then 800, 1200, 1500, and 2000. More abrasive needed but faster than all the time spent at the machine. Firm muslin rag circle with white (white diamond) compound was usually enough, only sometimes used soft red compound for super glossy shine.
You might also see a dishonest flat-purple reflection in some of your green-coated lenses, depending on the angle and intensity of the light source. I don’t know where everyone sources their coated lenses but clearly not all at the same place and there are lots of variations. Some of Hank’s old lenses look more ruby/orange than the usual violet…I got a green one from him last week and at first thought he’d misshiped an older lens as it appeared purple on first glance.
Don’t put tooooo much importance on the coating, though. Best purpose is gaining some otherwise lost photons but the shift to green was a relatively new idea…it works but of course not huge difference. Some of my Convoys don’t even really look all that different by eye with purple vs. green (some nice improvement to certain bins of SST20 though).
Your “blue” looks teal-green to me (previous green is more limey-green). I wonder why the difference, though.