0V for 4 days Sammie 30Qs? Well, you can make a test. Recharge them in some safe place to some not too high voltage, observe their self-discharge over a lenghty amount of time, even properly test their internal resistance. If cells still behave normally they could be used. But this is just because of “science”, in practical terms all of the involved effort is worth way more money than the price of a new pack.
I charged them at 300mA but they instantly discharged back to 0v so I binned them. Had a 4X18A driver fault drain them
I got the accessory sample for lighted switch ,
But there are two shortcomings, the tail is not waterproof, the flashlight loses its inverted function.
That’s not a problem. I’m sure.
Just received my S2+ with KY CSLNM1.FY Will upload a comparison between a 2700k SST-20, KY CSLNM1.FY, and XP-E2 amber when I get the chance.
i get some samples from Getian company.
12V 4A driver for L6 is in design ,too
Is the input voltage going to be 2S or is one cell supported too?
Wow, is there a chance to see the Convoys S11 and M3 with this emitter?
By the way, can you make a long back cover for the 21700 batteries for the Convoys S11? 26650 already withdraw from the market, to buy them all the more difficult and expensive.
This is awesome, chapeau bas Simon!
Comparison of the S2+ KY CSLNM1.FY
All taken on my phone, with fixed white balance to daylight.
KY CSLNM1.FY (S2+) - note the broad spectrum has some colour rendering
SST-20 2700k (S2+) - high-CRI
XP-E2 Amber (KDLITKER E6) - monochromatic
Overall impressions of the S2+ with KY CSLNM1.FY - “beautiful” golden/orange beam, with some colour rendering. Warmer than the 2700k SST-20, but not as warm as the XP-E2 Amber. 5A driver is completely over the top for this emitter, and it gets too hot within a few minutes even on 35% output, thus I’ll need to use it on 10% or 20% for night photography. This emitter would better suit a 3 or 4*7135 S2+.
While I understand there are no 2700K SST-20 tests afaik, the 3000K and 4000K high-CRI tested emitters peaked at 6 and 7A respectively, both with quite high Vf at these currents. So, 5A can be considered fine. With a full battery or close you will be driving the 2700K SST-20 close to maximum performance, but as I say still fine. Concerning the temperature thing, it basically is the same with any other emitter. Tip: you can reduce the amount of dissipated heat by charging your batteries to a slightly lower voltage (3.9 - 4V). This also enhances their lifespan.
30% is 1.5A, should be fine. The drivers also feature temperature protection anyway. If I were to have it, I wouldn't complain at all. Just learn to use it wisely and properly, and enjoy.
The post was discussing the KY CSLNM1.FY. The mention of the SST-20 was just a comparison.
Also, for my photography, I need constant brightness as otherwise I would have to change the exposure for each photo, thus I need to brightness levels that won’t trigger the temperature control.
I rushed a bit with the answer. :-)
The CSLNM1.FY is a phosphor converted emitter, this means it must behave like the CSLNM1.TG standard white flat.
Now I understand your issue, the @#$% aggressive temperature protection. The solution is here: Convoy 17/22 mm SST40 Driver temperature protection removal. It involves removing the onboard surface mount NTC resistor. Once located, push it by one side with a hot soldering iron tip until it launches. Salute once done, LoL!
Will this work with the Biscotti firmware?
I just get a nail clipper and cut it, it breaks clean off.
This is great. Hope it it will be available in M21C-U or L21A.
Hi, Simon. When do you think the 5 group CSLNM1.23 driver will be ready? It seems like I have some C8+’s to order.
I think more of the issue is that the driver’s current options are overkill for the amount of heat produced by the LED. It’s normal that at 100% there will be a step down, but not useful if 35% also steps down. Thus using a lower power drivers such as the 7135 drivers would have probably been a better choice for this emitter.
You can ask for one with the 7135 driver. I’m not sure what are the current instructions for a custom build due to price differences (if anything the 7135 version probably would be cheaper), but you can message Simon. Or if you need more power than the 7135 driver can provide you can ask for the SST40 ‘ramping’ driver, there are two adjustable modes but the UI IMHO isn’t the best and you can set it too high by mistake. Thermal stepdown is useful for most people, but I see that it may not be desirable for light painters.